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Code 11, 13, 34 and high altitude timing


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Hey. I have a 1989 Subaru GL SPFI. The CEL came on and I checked the codes got 11, 13 and 34. I know that it 11 and 13 are the crank angle sensor and 34 is the EGR Solenoid. I'm not too concerend about the EGR solenoid and have read some other treads about it. But the crank angle sensor concerns me. My question is if this was really a problem would the car be running still? Is it on the way out? One more piece to the puzzle. I have had a hard time starting the car a few times seems like it floods out. I step on the gas and it starts up. Is this related to any of the codes i was getting?

 

Also I live at 7500 ft and was wondering if i need to adjust to compensate. Do I advance or retard the timing?

 

Thanks for you help.

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But the crank angle sensor concerns me. My question is if this was really a problem would the car be running still? Is it on the way out?

 

The ECU is possibly getting intermittant signals from the optical pickup. Could be dirty, or it could be the shaft bearings going out. Could last a long time that way but chances are good you'll notice a bit better running if you replace or rebuild it.

 

One more piece to the puzzle. I have had a hard time starting the car a few times seems like it floods out. I step on the gas and it starts up. Is this related to any of the codes i was getting?

 

Pedal to the floor tells the ECU to shut off the injector. It's called "flood clear mode". Sounds like you may have mixture issues or a leaking injector. What's your fuel mileage look like?

 

Also I live at 7500 ft and was wondering if i need to adjust to compensate. Do I advance or retard the timing?

Thanks for you help.

 

The SPFI is self-compensating. That's what fuel injection is for. The hot-wire MAF used by the SPFI tells it the mass of the incoming air - this type of air sensor does not require altitude compensation by the very nature of it's design. DO NOT touch your timing other than the verify that it is at 20 degrees BTDC with the test mode connectors plugged in.

 

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24 isn't bad - but it should be around 27+ with the SPFI.

 

Air filter, tire pressure. Start there. Most find better tire wear and mileage with the front slightly higher than the rear. I run about 38 psi in the front, and about 36 in the back.

 

When was the last time the O2 sensor was replaced? They get slow to respond with age. They are also inexpensive, and if they haven't been done in a long time it's a good idea to replace them if for no other reason than they tend to get really, really stuck in the y-pipe and are a pain to remove. Replaceing them after chasing the threads and applying a sufficient quantity of anti-sieze will help make sure that doesn't happen.

 

I would start there. Unless you are willing to invest in a wide-band O2 sensor, there is no good way to diagnose this stuff without throwing some parts at it. A wideband sure is a nice tool to have. About $250 for a simple setup is more than most people are willing to shell out though.

 

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I just got the car a few months ago for free. Of corse there is no such thing as a free car $500 and who knows how man hours later. Anyway it is running a lot better than it did a month ago and it's been alot of fun. I'll air up the tires and look into getting in O2 sensor hopefully mine will come out without too much trouble. I know that exhaust bolts can be a pain. Thanks for all the suggestions it has been very helpfull.

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