The Beast I Drive Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 Hey there all you big bad off roaders, I am wondering just how well the axles on EA series cars hold up to the quadrupled or more torque being sent through them due to the addition of a transfer case and oversize tires in excess of 30 inches. Also, I would tend to believe that more axles break on welded diffs than on open ones. What I am doing is a 9 inch lifted EA car with an EJ motor, nissan T case, and I plan on running 33 inch tires, and I want an Idea of about how many times I will have to replace an axle on the trail Also, has anyone looked into custom axles with U joints instead of CV's, or just stronger CV's? Lookin to make it as capable as possible, but cost is also a big factor here, this is more of a side project while I wait on some parts that I need for my Brat... Any and all information is greatly appreciated! Thanks -Bill EDIT:Oops, I meant this to go in Off road:banghead: Sorry Mods Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3eyedwagon Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 I think the T-case guys go through diffs as well as axles. At least thats what I've read, heard, and seen on video. Even if you do fix the axle problem, it will just move to the next weakest component, which will probably be the diffs. We are just asking too much of such small components. I've often though about upgrading to I.S. off of a blazer or something, but then the next logical component to go would be the transmissions. Then the next logical step would be a heavier transmission, mounted by adapter plate. Of course, I'm dramatically over simplifying things here, but these are the steps I would take. Weed things out one by one. In the end, you don't have much Subaru left. Mostly just a body, and maybe a motor. PS; I thought about the Ujoint style driveshafts like in a straight axle, or on alot of todays independant suspensions, but again, I think the next thing to break would be the outputs on the diffs. I've already seen some of those twisted off with stock axles, and no transfer case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 the thing with welded diffs......when you're at full flex, the side under load is the side with up-flex, which means the joints are not at angle. which means, they're no longer the weak spot......the axle stubs are. and that's true even with stock gearing and motor. lower gears, bigger tires, bigger motor, all make it more true. other thing to consider. if you get stronger axles, and stubs, something else is going to break. I fear the next weakest link is the diff itself. and the rear output of the EA trannies isn't exactly bulletproof either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 I fear the next weakest link is the diff itself. and the rear output of the EA trannies isn't exactly bulletproof either. Good lord yes, I can attest to that. For strength, nothing beats solid axles. Use nissan ones if you want to stay manufacturer specific. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 BRAT/Brumby - 1" more lift then standard on the front axles, 27" kumho's, EJ22 (130hp vs 80hp), custom front A arms and radius rods gave a 1.5" angle forwards also on the CV's. Drived it pretty hard on dirt and offroad. A S/H axle from the wreckers with minimal miles would last maybe 6 months.... Rears only hada problem when I had the welded diff and EA81 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted March 31, 2008 Author Share Posted March 31, 2008 Great stuff to know! Thanks for prompt replies guys. Im going to be leaving it independent supension, just because I have had a hell of a time trying to find solid axles that I can afford, and like I was sayin, its kinda a side project. I will be doing custom A arms for the front suspension, but I am leaving the geometry alone (lift the struts 9 inches, lift everything else 9 inches) so I dont worry about hyperextension. As far as welding the diffs, I wasnt planning on that, I am going to leave them open until I can get a hold of a pair of 3.9 LSD diffs. I wonder if there would be enough demand to commision Randy's Ring and Pinion or a similar company to start making high strength diff components? I figure if you upgrade everything just a little bit you can still expect the usual culprits to fail, just not as often as usual. So with 33's and medium trail use, with open diffs, I can prolly expect about 3 months or so from my axles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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