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Intermitent 12Volts to the Coil ?? Need advice


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On my "1986 EA82 Carbed manual", ..the odd time when going over a bump on the road the car completely dies out..with the key in the "on" postion I am Not getting any voltage to the coil,...but when trying to start the car, I might get 1/2 a volt..sometimes rocking the car will restore power to the coil...when shaking or moving any wires near the coil area or under the dash there is no change...just wondering if someone has any ideas on where the problem might be

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Have you checked all of the fusable links? Pulled them off, then put them back on to make sure the connection is good?

 

-Dave

I have checked the fusible links, still no change to the volt meter...with the key in the "on" postion the voltage still shows only about .3V
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Because of the intermittent nature of the problem, it has lead me to assume many things to be the problem..the fuel pump has been changed, new 12V wire to the fuel pump and grounded.. the coil has been changed out,.. also the fuel pump control unit exchanged, ..fusible links checked/replaced..what makes it more difficult and confusing, is that with every so-called repair, the car started up immediately, thus leading me to believe the problem was solved..

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the coil is tightly fastened...Ground strap has not been checked..provided there is one, might explain why when sometimes rocking the car or hitting a bump it either returns to normal or dies out..anybody know where the main ground strap might be located on a carbed loyale

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i had the same problem, it ended up being a corroded ground strap, their about 5 different ground wires on the engine
..that was a good call..it should have been the first wire for me to check..the ground strap on my car was ready to come off, just barely hanging in there, so this should take care of the intermittent problem..But, But,
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But, everything was running well, .. now the fuel pump/coil fuse keeps blowing, but when I ran a wire from the thermostat to the fuel pump, it seems to run with no problem...does anybody know if something in the speedo cluster could cause problems to the coil or fuel pump

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My info shows that fuse #11 ties to the coil and pump via a blk/wht wire. The b/w wire also ties to the rev sensor and then the feed to the pump is on a blu/red wire. The problem may be within the rev sensor. You could try running fused power to each of the areas, one at a time, using about a 5 amp fuse and see if blows on one particular circuit.

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My info shows that fuse #11 ties to the coil and pump via a blk/wht wire. The b/w wire also ties to the rev sensor and then the feed to the pump is on a blu/red wire. The problem may be within the rev sensor.

 

 

Yeah, sounds like what they do.

 

Also, IIRC, That fuse also powers the heater in the auto choke. Try unhooking the wire for the choke heater. I've seen that be the cause of repeated blown ignition fuses.

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Yeah, sounds like what they do.

 

Also, IIRC, That fuse also powers the heater in the auto choke. Try unhooking the wire for the choke heater. I've seen that be the cause of repeated blown ignition fuses.

unhooking the choke..I will give that a try to be on the safe side...are there any other possible reasons outside of the choke for the fuse to blow
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My info shows that fuse #11 ties to the coil and pump via a blk/wht wire. The b/w wire also ties to the rev sensor and then the feed to the pump is on a blu/red wire. The problem may be within the rev sensor. You could try running fused power to each of the areas, one at a time, using about a 5 amp fuse and see if blows on one particular circuit.
the detailed info will be greatly needed once it stops raining and warms up...if the rev sensor is located in the speedo cluster, it's the only thing i have not changed out...also from time to time when just reving the motor it will die out...
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the detailed info will be greatly needed once it stops raining and warms up...if the rev sensor is located in the speedo cluster, it's the only thing i have not changed out...also from time to time when just reving the motor it will die out...

 

 

It's not in the dash. It's under it, on the drivers side wall. Just up above the hood latch pull.

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It's not in the dash. It's under it, on the drivers side wall. Just up above the hood latch pull.
...Not to add any more confusion here, but directly above the hood latch and the only item attached to the side wall as described above is the "fuel pump control box"...if this, is what you mean as the rev sensor,...this item has also been exchanged with no difference to the main problem...however, just above that FPCB and connected to the front of the dash is a 1.5"x1.5" cube with many wires going into it...is this what you are referring too as the rev sensor..Thanks
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The rev sensor is the control box for the pump. You should be able to see the b/w and blu/r wires running to it.

 

Edit:

Checking my info again it looks like the b/w power wire also runs to 2 connections on the ECU along with one of the check connectors.

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The rev sensor is the control box for the pump. You should be able to see the b/w and blu/r wires running to it.

 

Edit:

Checking my info again it looks like the b/w power wire also runs to 2 connections on the ECU along with one of the check connectors.

..Sorry Cougar , but perhaps you missed it in my first posting ..but I have a "carbed" 96 loyale..no ECU..thanks for trying anyway
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I forgot about the carb on my first post but my info shows the ECU for a carb model also.

 

Check the fusible links for a loose connection. That may be where the voltage is dropping at.

once I find success with this I will let those who are interested know exactly what is the problem
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