Looking to possibly move up from 2.2L to a 2.5?

[kimkathan]

I've always driven the older generations of Subarus (currently a 1990 Legacy with 267, 000) I have come across a 1996 Outback with a 2.5L engine. From what I've herd from people around here, the 2.5 aren't that great. I was told that if when I start the new one that there is a "pop" that the headgasket is probably ready to go. Is there anything I should be looking for and ways to maintain the engine so that it wouldn't have all the problems that people are saying. BTW the 1996 Outback has 111,000 original miles on it and no rust that I've been able to see so far, need to crawl up under it.

 

Also, are any parts transferable from a 2.2L to a 2.5? My sister just put new radiator and alternator on her 1995 legacy, but is thinking now of putting it up for parts>

[nipper]

1996 is a good year, but it also a premium fuel engine to get the most out of it. Look for a 1997 that is a regular fuel engine. Also any car over 10yo it is always possible to have a HG go bad. Look for a 1997 1998 that has had a HG replaced in its llife, or one for a good price where if it needs one, its just the price of buying a used car.

 

The poping noise may be a jumped timing belt, a leaky valve, don't know from way over here. No need to buy a questionable car unless the price is right.

 

 

nipper

[Suzam]

Maintainence isn't really a way of stopping the head gasket from blowing out on the 2.5L. The problem is design of the head and gaskets although a well maintained car is nicer anyway.

 

If the one you are looking at hasn't had a problem yet, it's getting into the age and mileage range where it may go out.

 

Most anyone here will tell you "it's not if, but when".

 

We have a MY98 with 120K on it and I'm trying to keep an eye on it for symptoms like oil and/or bubbles in the overflow, unexplained overheating on the highway and the heater to stop working.

 

You could look for a manual tranny Outback with a 2.2 from that year, I'd feel much better with that setup than a 2.5, but if you have your heart set on it, put some cash aside for a headgasket job in the future. Just for insurance.

[idosubaru]

headgaskets can't be in the "about to pop" state, there's just no way to know that.

 

they assumed that and are wrong....or it was known to be a head gasket issue and they just worded it creatively....i've had unscrupulous sellers try things like that before. the vehicle description is worded just right so they feel they're telling the truth but ambiguous enough that you might miss it....crap.

 

don't assume you have any head gasket issues unless you notice overheating. noises alone, ie "popping", don't point to head gaskets.

 

only the later model EJ25's (99 or 2000 - depending on model) can have an additive added to mitigate head gasket issues. your year is a different animal, it fails differently and is a different design. so there's no preventative maintenance you can do to help it. except to say keep your cooling system in good shape - don't have any leaks and get a new water pump/thermostat. overheating the engine does not do the head gaskets any favor.

[Reveeen]

There are no "guarantees" in life, how could you hope to expect one on a 12 year old car?

Personally, I choose to pay a price I can live with, or I simply do not own the car.

The 2.5L engine has a long history of head gasket "problems" (worth $1000-$2500 to get fixed), problems I might add, that seem to show up around 100,000K-140,000K, pay accordingly.

 

A lot of mechanical parts are transferable between the years you mention, again pay accordingly (if I drive into a scrap yard here with a Subaru they don't want it and might offer me $200, MIGHT).

[kimkathan]

Thanks

it's not that it is popping necessarly, but rather someone told me to listen for a snap/pop sound upon just starting that could be a sign of HG. Price listed for this is 1500.

[nipper]

Thanks

it's not that it is popping necessarly, but rather someone told me to listen for a snap/pop sound upon just starting that could be a sign of HG. Price listed for this is 1500.

 

1500 is a fair price, and popping is not how you tell if a HG is bad. Thats how you may tell if it needs a valve job or the timing belt has jumped.

The way you tell a bad HG is to remove the radiator cap. The coolant should look all one color with nothing floating in it. Start the car and let it warm up. Wait till you have good heat and the temp gauge is mid point. If it doesnt reach about mid point thats a red flag right there (someone has removed the t-stat). There will be a surge of fluid when the T stat opens up. After the fluid goes down, look for bubbles. There should be no bubbles, except may the odd tiny one. If there is a steady amount of bubbles, then it has a HG issues.

 

Some will say look at the resoivoir coolant, but no one ever cleans that so it can be a false positive.

 

This is not the diffenitive tests, but usually if someone is selling a sooby, the HG is far enough along that there will be bubbles in the coolant.

 

Take the car for a test drive (with the capo on) and check the heat. If at any time it looses heat it may be a HG issue.

 

about 15% of soobies have a HG issue. Any aluminum engine car can blow a HG at any time over 140,000 if it has not been maintained.

 

Good luck.

 

nipper

[screwbaru2]

If there's a steady stream of bubbles in the overflow tank that ain't no false positive.

[kimkathan]

OK I took it for a good long drive last night on pavement and through mud. Didn't have any fluxuations in temperature, and did not notice any bubbles in the radiator. Only thing I did notice was CEL was on code came back for O2 sensor and she said that just came on day before. Other thing I can't figure out is there was an oil spot about 4 inches in diameter on the mud shield under the radiator. Both radiators looked to be relativly new, no crap or crimps in it. Any ideas on the oil spot? I didn't notice the oil down, and no drips when left it to sit on the pavement. Only black gunk was noticed around the pressure sensor. could it be a seal around the oil pan?

[idosubaru]

O2 sensors - probably needs replaced, it's probably the front one and best to get this part from Subaru. i posted part numbers of the 1996 legacy EJ25 O2 sensors today if you want to look them up. $101 from subaru. you can get them much cheaper online or from parts stores but the consensus seems to be that Subaru is best on this part.

 

if you have questions about that then search and read all the debates/discussions about it, it's been hashed out multiple times in the past.

 

these items should all be addressed - this EJ25 is an interference engine and you'll want to make sure the timing belt is in good condition or replace it. at this age i'd replace the timing belt and water pump and the leaking seals. all the seals previously mentioned lie behind the timing belt, so best to do it all at one time.

 

as for the oil spot - find out what it is first and it should be obvious where it's coming from. cam seals, cam orings and crank or oil pump seals are the usual culprits if it's up front. if it's loosing fluid then something has to be decreasing in quantity and showing marks. sounds like one of the seals i mentioned, probably a cam seal/oring.