Performance Brakes - 02 Legacy

[keltik]

Hey guys,

 

Im heading to the ClubSUB track day and meet up on saturday and will be doing some hard laps around the Taupo race track in my Legacy.

 

So far ive picked up some Bendix Ultimate pads (one step down from track only pads) for the front (2 pot calipers surprised me) and a liter of DOT5.1 brake fluid.

 

Im going to be fitting the pads n stuff tomorrow night and needed to know a couple of things.

 

1. Im still running stock brakes on the back - If the rears fade under heavy braking and the fronts are still biting - will i die? (im thinking it would create some funny handling)
   
2. Im going to be flushing through the whole system with new fluid. Any tips?
   
3. Should i grease up the sliders? Everythings clean but a bit dry. What kinda grease should i use if im doing it?
   
4. Do i still need to use the anti-squeel shims? (new pads have a carbon fiber backing on them)

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Edited to clean up some questions.

[EVOthis]

1. im not to sure how it is in other states and countries but here in PA.....its a law that if one set of brakes fail (front or rear) the other is capable of safely stopping the vehicle....

2. nothing i can think of.....as long as you have done it before it shouldnt be a prob.

 

3. Usually you can buy tubes/cans of grease that say "caliper grease" on it......i always do it on the brakes i replace because there is a small chance they could get a little noisy if you dont.....

4.if there are anti squeel shims on there when you take the old pads off....i would def. reuse them if not get new ones.....

[keltik]

One last bump before i just guess and do it

[aircraft engineer]

since the fronts actually do 70% or so of the braking in cars, you won't notice much anyway if the rears fade.

 

It WOULD, however, take about 2.5X as far to stop on ONLY rears. If you lose one system, it's "better" if it's the rear.

 

Now, one thing about brakes (and why ABS helps so much) - when the FRONTS lock up (no ABS) and the rears don't, you go "straight" - sliding, but straight

 

When the rears lock and the front's don't, your rear tries to catch up to your front tires sideways (and is why a lot of older heavier vehicles like say, 93 Econoline 350 vans - only have "rear antilocks")

 

Soooo...If everything locks, you just slide uncontrolled (which is why in days of ore, we were taught to "pump the brakes in slippery conditions" and steer into the skid) Now it's "stand on the brakes and steer the car" - steering only works when the wheels are ROLLING)

[nipper]

Everyone is forgetting one thing. Brakes are no longer front/rear. They are left front/right rear and right front/left rear.

 

Rear brakes dont fade. You get fading from front brakes getting hot. YOu may want to go to ceramic pads, as i think the brakes are a little less effective on that year then other years.

 

Brake flushing. Use a baster to get all the old fluid out of the Master, then put fresh fluid on top of it. Don't reuse fluid. Use speed bleaders if you can.

 

nipper

[keltik]

Cheers nipper, being a JDM spec car its got the vented rotors on the back and pretty hefty calipers. I was just worried about the back breaks getting hot and giving me some twitchy nasty handling.

 

Looks like its all go for sunday, will be sure to post some nice pics when i get back.