Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

idles low?? and still no running lights


Recommended Posts

when warm the ru will idle at 800 to 900 rpm's and its fi:confused: its shakes when idlein this low.. could it be plugs? ill clean everything real good tomarrow and check more spots for the running lights. anyone have thede issues before? have a good starting point? or is this needle ina hay stack?:lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

800-900 RPMs is kinda normal I think for the MT, Mines a AT and when at running temp idels at 700-800 in park, The when in drive around 550-650. My the needle does shake a little when in drive after driving it and getting hot, Needle shakes between 550-650. But now since I seafoam(ed) it thru the (Break booster) it runs better. and the plugs make a diffrent too, I'm running the NGK BPR6ES (Stock) and some NGK wires. But the SF did really help. Other then that I dunno..

 

I'm sure GD and some others will pop up soon :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lower idle is normal. average normal idel should be around 700 rpm or so.

 

as far as bad plugs go, i have had motors that would run on 2 cylinders when cold, then 3 then 4 as it warms up. it wouldnt hurt to check out the plugs if you have a rough idle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Been wonderin, where can I get sea foam? And the engine makes the car shake at low rpms when at 1000 rpm's its great runnin at 700 it acts like there's a dead cylinder. Im gonna get the bosh platinum 2's with the 4 point tips and ac delco coil and wire setup. Also a aptima deep sysle battery.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

screw the platinums they really wont be any better and will be more prone to foul.

 

you want NGK v power plugs, with the part number "the loyale" has posted.

 

be careful with your coil selection as it could potentially stress the ignition amplifier unit.

 

the bosch platinums of any design are known to foul prematurely if you search around about it.

 

otherwise you can go with the custom make your own 8mm wire kuts and gap your plugs to .045 to run a hotter spark. but if you have problems where your car quits all of a sudden and wont start again after it sits a while youwill want to put in your stock coil.

 

if you do install the aftermarket coil, at least keep the stocker as a spare because there are stories of aftermarket coils causing problems and the stocker hanging out in the trunk saves the day.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The running lights do turn on with the switch but my dash lights dont

 

 

For the running light problem start your checks at the fuses to make sure they are ok. Then see if the lights will work using the switch on top of the steering column.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im a tank mechanic give me some credit. Lol my dimmer switch works its dims the clock when the switch is flipped on the steering colomb

 

Wish I could give you credit...

 

The switch I am talking about IS NOT on the steering column.

 

The dimmer is located to the left of the colum, near the rear defrost button.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Come on... I know what the dimmer switch is its the vertical roller knob next to the hazard button and under the rear defrost button. Now what I was saying was the dimmer knob works only when the steering colomb button is pressed to the right side so the P isn't showing and the dot is. There are two dimmer knobs in the tank I work on the grunts always com in saying our lights don't work I we check the dimmer first. Its usually the problem. Not in my case

 

Wish I could give you credit...

 

The switch I am talking about IS NOT on the steering column.

 

The dimmer is located to the left of the colum, near the rear defrost button.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

could be a bad knob. I had a dimmer knob on my RX that didnt work. Luckily, it malfunctioned with the lights as bright as they could get.

 

I don't think it's just no dash lights.

 

I think ALL of his parking lights are not working via the headlight switch.

 

His park lights work with the column *parking* switch, but not like they normally should via the headlight switch.

 

True2Blue, have you checked the fuse for the parking lights? Fuse 6 IIRC labeled *Room , Illlumination*. If the fuse is not blown, check if the fuse is being supplied with 12v. That fuse 6, and fuse 7, are supplied 12v by the Left headlight relay with the ignition *on* If there is not 12v with the key *on*, then the relay is blown.

 

Have you checked that both headlights work? Brightly? The reason I ask is that the running lights power is supplied through the Left headlight relay. If you're left light is not working or is very dim (from feedback voltage from right side through the switch) then you don't have power to that circuit. Check both the fuse then the relay.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the excellent check point suggestions made by Gloyal check out ok then I would suspect the problem with the running lights is either in the light switch or with a connector pin to it, since you say that the column switch works. I would fix that problem first. You could check to see if power is getting to the bulbs. The switch connects the ground side of the circuit.

 

If the dash lights still don't work after getting the running lights working then I would suspect you may need to replace the bulbs in the dash. I don't have access to my data right now and can't remember exactly how the dash lights are supplied power through the switch. You could also check to see if they are getting power using a test light probe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...