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Anyone looked into running 4 "spare tire" wheels with different tires? They are 16" rims, just a little skinney.

 

Orion

 

Hi Orion,

 

Do you mean the 15" wheel?

 

I have considered taking enough of those wheels, 10 ea. and cut the rim part off.

 

Grind, smooth, nest two together and weld to a new rim. Never done it and probably not the first to thnk of it.

 

Rust will do this to a man:)

 

Doug

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I have considered taking enough of those wheels, 10 ea. and cut the rim part off.

 

Grind, smooth, nest two together and weld to a new rim. Never done it and probably not the first to thnk of it.

 

What's that? The Pollok rim welding method? :lol:

 

Cut out the center and weld it to a proper 15" rim if you want to do it right. Still would be a major b1tch to get the center to line up properly. You would need a serious jig to make it not pull all over the place when you welded it.

 

It's far, far easier to just get some toyota or mazda steel rims, punch out two new holes, and fill-weld the two you don't need. No cutting, jigging, or other tom-foolery required. Grind the welds, sand blast, and have them powder coated. No one is the wiser.

 

GD

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It's far, far easier to just get some toyota or mazda steel rims, punch out two new holes, and fill-weld the two you don't need. No cutting, jigging, or other tom-foolery required. Grind the welds, sand blast, and have them powder coated. No one is the wiser.

 

GD

 

I'm with this dude, It's easier than it seams. An idiot proof method I've used it to pull a front hub off the rotor/cv, remove 2 studs and bolt it to the back of the wheel and face the wheel down, You've got a perfect jig. Zap it with a a dril bit or center punch it to center the holes, remove the hub and go to town with smaller bits first. Steel 15'' 6-lugger spokes are almost a dime a dozen. steel 14'' 6-lugger spokes are pretty much free if you can find'm. You can also flip the wheel right side up and drill the hub to a ~perfect~ 6-lugger that way. It's a bit more work to make the studs fit right, and you've gotta dig up more studs and nuts, but it looks way cooler and after you do it once you'll be set on cheep and extremely easy to find 6-lug wheels for life. They're everywhere.

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the spare donut rim is thinner metal, also the inner bead is flat, does not have the bead lock ridge standard rims have,

 

Hey Scott,

 

What I was thinking was to nest two donut centers together, weld them into a "new" regular rim. I will probably never do that. I did not notice that there is no bead lock.

 

And, I have no plans to ever lift a Subaru.

 

I like your wide 5 approach, btw. Have you considered casting some up in aluminum? I got this thing about unsprung weight:).

 

Doug

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What's that? The Pollok rim welding method? :lol:

 

Cut out the center and weld it to a proper 15" rim if you want to do it right. Still would be a major b1tch to get the center to line up properly. You would need a serious jig to make it not pull all over the place when you welded it.

 

It's far, far easier to just get some toyota or mazda steel rims, punch out two new holes, and fill-weld the two you don't need. No cutting, jigging, or other tom-foolery required. Grind the welds, sand blast, and have them powder coated. No one is the wiser.

 

GD

 

Nice, we have a racial comment GOOD ONE GD! :clap:

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Hey Scott,

 

What I was thinking was to nest two donut centers together, weld them into a "new" regular rim. I will probably never do that. I did not notice that there is no bead lock.

 

And, I have no plans to ever lift a Subaru.

 

I like your wide 5 approach, btw. Have you considered casting some up in aluminum? I got this thing about unsprung weight:).

 

Doug

 

cast alloy might break

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cast alloy might break

 

Hi Scott,

 

I've been looking over wide five and I've got a couple questions.

 

How much does your kit weigh? Adaptors with supplied studs? I've got my eye on a set of_______ wheels.

 

First run bare steel? How thick?

 

Sincerely,

 

Doug

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