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94 Loyale electric windows ???


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From the drivers seat I can lower all side windows but the drivers window is the only on that will go up again from the drivers seat. The other 3 you have to use the switch on the door the window is located. This is not normal is it. ??

Wiring problem or switch in drivers door.?? Thanks

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No, it's not normal. All windows should operate up or down from the drivers switch. The Lock switch would be suspect, except that I believe it disables all windows, up and down, drivers window too.

 

When the drivers switch is controlling other windows, it switches both power and ground. The local switches pass this through to the motor unless they are also being operated.

 

When the drivers switch is operating the drivers window, it is actually not routing the power or ground to the motor. It sends control signals to a separate control unit which handles the auto up/down features.

 

As I understand the wiring diagram, there is not any single wire that could fail by breaking or shorting (at least to power or ground) that could cause all three windows to act this way. My best guess is that there is a bad connection supplying 12 volt power to the drivers switch. This could allow enough current to the motor so it could lower the window (an easier job) but not enough to raise it back up (harder). You could test this theory by trying to close a window with the drivers switch, and seeing if some upward pressure on the window would be enough to help the motor fight gravity.

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it is normal wear. every one (5) of my EA82s have had some sort of goofy problem with the power windows when I got them. and every time, it's been dirty contacts in the switch.

 

you have to pull the switch off, and in order to do that, you have to pull the whole door card off. it's pretty self explanatory though, couple screws to remove the switch from the door card, than a couple more to open up the back of the switch. be careful, as there are a number of very small parts, and springs involved. you can tell where the brass contacts touch each other, and chances are, there will be dirt built up on them. no need for any special chemicals, just scrape it off with a flathead screwdriver or razor blade. sometimes I hit them up with a piece of sandpaper too.

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Thanks for the replies. I did check the archives and did read about the dirty contacts but was not Loyale specific. I will try the assist on the up cycle.

LR window does seem to try to go up a wee bit when controlled from the drivers

seat. I do have a Haynes manual . I normally like Haynes manuals but for this car it is not the best. I just got the Loyale due to a massive oil leak from the right side cam cover. I installed a new gasket and now am looking at other things.

thanks.

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Another thing to check, espescially in salt laden Wisconsin, is the crimp junction for all the power wires for the windows.

 

Remove the passenger seat, the door sill trim, and the center console.

 

now pull up the carpet on the passenger side and find the bundle of wires running under it to the PW unit(bolted under seat)

 

there will be a large red wire, that splits at a crimp junction. IIRC the splice is right in the middle of the section that sits on the floor right under the passenger feet. Right were feet deposit melting snow mixed with salt soak the carpet. :rolleyes:

 

Check that splice for corrosion and repair. It's the first place I start when I encounter one or more windows not working, even before the switch contacts.

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Thanks for the replies. I did check the archives and did read about the dirty contacts but was not Loyale specific. I will try the assist on the up cycle.

LR window does seem to try to go up a wee bit when controlled from the drivers

seat. I do have a Haynes manual . I normally like Haynes manuals but for this car it is not the best. I just got the Loyale due to a massive oil leak from the right side cam cover. I installed a new gasket and now am looking at other things.

thanks.

 

After looking over my data (a FSM for a '88 Loyale) I think the most likely spot for this trouble is in the main switch. I suspect that the power lead inside it has a connection problem in the up position so Msteel's comment about a bad connection may be correct. You can prove this by jumpering a couple pair of wires if you want to.

 

First, roll down the front passenger window about half way. Remove the main connector to the driver's window switch control panel. The main connector has two large wires that supply battery and ground (red and black). The wires going to the front passenger window on my data are shown to be white/blue and blue/black. By jumpering the power and ground wires to these wires you should be able to make the window go up and down. By tieing the red wire to the w/bl and black wire to the bl/blk wire you should see the window go up. If that works then the main switch is the problem.

 

As far as manuals go I recommend you try to find a FSM that covers the wiring at least. I think they made them until '91. There were updates after that I believe.

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I drove myself crazy, in Wisconsin with a rusty Wisco car, replacing switches and disassembling them to clean contacts. To no Avail.

 

When I pulled the carpet and repaired that crimp splice, they all worked again.

 

I would highly advise starting by checking that red wire under the carpet, espescially if you're carpet gets wet.

 

 

The power wire for the drivers window is the straight through wire at the junction, the other 3 are crimped to it. That is probably why it works, but the other 3 don't. The other 3 rely on a good connection at the crimp, which they probably aren't getting.

 

Doesn't it just seems to odd that ALL 3 other windows won't roll UP? I think that connection has so much corroision, that it can't conduct the higher amperage needed to roll the windows up as opposed to down.

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Well I have of of ideas now and will probably attack the easy stuff first.

Yes it does seem odd 3 windows won't go up. I do have the Haynes wiring dia.

and have been studying that. What is the common denominator? The black ground wire for the master switch grounds 3 windows and the +red wire might be another one . Does anybody know where the - black ground wire for the master switch in drivers door is attached to what/where.??

Thanks!

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Well I have of of ideas now and will probably attack the easy stuff first.

Yes it does seem odd 3 windows won't go up. I do have the Haynes wiring dia.

and have been studying that. What is the common denominator? The black ground wire for the master switch grounds 3 windows and the +red wire might be another one . Does anybody know where the - black ground wire for the master switch in drivers door is attached to what/where.??

Thanks!

 

I believe it grounds to the chassis where the power window unit is bolted down.

Under passenger seat. Under carpet.

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If you suspect a bad ground wire you can test that out by placing a voltmeter across the suspected bad ground point and a known good ground. Then move the switch to the UP position and see the voltage goes up on the meter. If it does then the suspected ground is bad. If you see no voltage then the ground is ok.

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So if I start watching for FSM what will the cover say? How many volumes to the set for 94 Loyale? Would I need a master set for say 1990 and the supplements for 94? Sorry I am just learning this Subaru stuff.

I just got the Loyale. Before that I only looked at Brats from years ago.

I do like books tho and will be checking at swap meets. I will figure out the window problems and post the results. Might take a bit of time tho as I can't devote a whole lot of time right now. I do have Loyale in my way so I have to walk around it. That way I get to fixing it quicker than if it is in the corner and I can't see it. Thanks!

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But these are for Legacy. He's working on a Loyale.

 

Oops! Sorry about that. I didn't look close enough.

 

I think there is a set of 4 manuals for the Loyale. My '88 version has 6 sections covered in 4 manuals. I think they will cover most of the things you need to know without having the supplements.

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I cleaned the contacts in the main drivers door switch and for now the windows all work. Thank you to all who replied. Yes there are a fair amount of bits inside the main switch and next time I am going to have the screw heads pointing down when I open switch.

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