Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

My turn for the Head Gasket replacement


Recommended Posts

Hi All,

 

Well it finally happened. After 128K relatively trouble-free miles my wifes 98 OBW blew a headgasket. Unfortunately my wife was 250 miles away when she noticed the car overheating. We took the car to a tech and he confirmed that there are hydrocarbons in the coolant. Thanks to a U-Haul auto transport and a friend with a truck I was able to get the thing home.

 

Now I am trying to decide whether to just have the headgaskets repaced (along with a number of other engine seals), or have the engine replaced with a rebuilt motor. I am leaning more towards just the HG job as the car ran strong up and was well maintained up until this point and the difference in price is considerable as I don't have time to do the work myself. I also don't think that it was run hot for very long...although I don't know for sure as I wasn't driving it. :eek:

 

So I thought I would tap the collective knowledge of the group about their experience with HG replacements on the 2.5L engine. For those of you who have replaced the HG's what has your experience been? Can I expect another 50 - 75K out of the engine...or am I better off replacing the whole thing?

 

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[...]I also don't think that it was run hot for very long...although I don't know for sure as I wasn't driving it. :eek:

To a great degree, the above determines the answer to the below.

[...]Can I expect another 50 - 75K out of the engine...or am I better off replacing the whole thing?

 

If you can run it at all (even for a short time) without apparent problems, it's likely a properly done repair (that may include more than just HGs) will add lots of life to the engine. One thing that helps determine potential longevity is whether engine maintenance has in general been (and will be) done on schedule. For example, when was the timing belt last replaced (will it need one within that "50 - 75K" period)?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you do your own work, repair it. One thing, after you get done with it, you will know exactly what you have. (2 day job with the right equipment... maybe... otherwise more time)

 

Unless you use a rebuilt engine - then it's "new" (sort of)

 

At 128 you probably won't need the bearings/rings stuff unless the car hasn't seen "regular" maint. You wind up doing the valves anyway, so you top end OH'ed it if you keep it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's been my experience that if it is in the begining stages of bad head gaskets, and hasn't been severely overheated, it just got a little hot once or twice it's worth it to fix it. If it's been repeatedly overheated or I don't know all the history I recomend replacing the engine with a 2.2 engine since it's much cheaper.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you all for the advice. I think you all have reaffirmed my decision to just have the HG's replaced.

 

We have owned the car for the last 100K miles. I have done most of the work on the car so I know that the regular stuff has been done on time (most of the time anyway). I replaced the crank seal/timing belt/water pump myself about 50K ago.

 

The shop doing the work will replace the cam and crank seals, timing belt and do a valve job while the engine is out. I figured I would have them replace the rear main seal and the water pump & thermostat as well. Is there anything else I should have them do while they are in there tinkering around?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seriously giove think over about replacing the radiator. This is up to you. Radiators tend to clog when water hits the oil/antifreeze/water mix and make it glue. Sometimes they can be cleaned out, sometimes they cant. Also when the car gets home, clean out the overflow tank. No one ever does.

 

nipper

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seriously giove think over about replacing the radiator.
hey nip, what about the oil and coolant don't typically mix in this motor? i have never seen one with mixed coolant/oil personally. highly unlikely that it did on this guys. i know this is a good standard practice, but unless i'm forgetting something i would not replace the radiator in one of these engines (and i never have).

 

make sure yours has the metal rear separator plate while the engine is out. the earlier plastic plates can crack. the upgraded metal plate is a good idea while the engine is out, it's next to the rear main seal.

 

if the oil pan has any signs of leakage, now is the time to replace it. while it looks semi-reasonable to replace by looking under the car, it is not. you can't see the baffles and sump inside the pan...on many subaru's you have to jack the engine/trans up (meaning remove lots of stuff too) in order to get the oil pump off the engine. if it's not leaking, then leave it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Reseal or replace the seperator plate. If the rear crank seal doesn't leak leave it alone. They almost never leak until you mess with them. I hear a lot about them leaking after being replaced "just because". The big leak out the back that most people confuse with a rear main leak is the seperator plate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This car does have a good case of piston slap when it is cold. The sound goes away pretty quick once is warms up...so it seems more annoying that anything else. Is there anything that can be done to reduce or eliminate the noise while the heads are off?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did call CCR. Their price for a 2.5 was around $3300 which is one reason I started looking at just doing the gead gasket replacement. I'll probably just live with the noisy engine in the morning.

 

If the engine is going to be pulled to do this, I would look into replacing the noisey pistons.

 

Subaru has replacements that correct this.

 

nipper

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...