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EJ22 High Idle with consistent surging.


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I havea 95 Subaru Legacy we are trying to fix for a friend. When I got it it didn't run at all. Changed the Alternator and Crank angle sensor and a few other parts. Finally got it to start and it wouldn't stay running. The timing was way off. Ininitially I didnt think timing belt becuase the passenger side Timing belt cover was broken and the exposed belt look great. After pulling the whole thing apart we discovered on of the Timing Sprockets had lost its bearing and probably caused the belt to skip a cog or something. So we replaced the Water Pump all the seals and put on a new timing belt. The car started right up but it is running at realy high idle like 3000-4000 and it consistently surges in idle. Like vrooooom....vroom..vroooom...vroom..vroooom Either we put the timing belt on wrong or something else is wrong. I used a C-Clamp to depress the tensioner and I hope I didn't hurt that. But any thoughts would be helpful. thanks,g

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i would double and triple check everything.......esp. the vacuum lines......make sure you hooked everything back up.......i have heard of people accidently leaving the line to the IAC undone..... than again i dont know exactly what you messed with....i took my intake off because i did the passangers side rear o ring.........

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I wish I had a code reader. I went into town to all the Auto Parts stores and nobody had them in stock. I know I can order one on the internet, but I am wondering what kind of software I will need. Would the basic codes be good enough?

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.....i have heard of people accidently leaving the line to the IAC undone..... than again i dont know exactly what you messed with........

 

Also the Vaccum lines and all look good except the Cannister that has all the charcoal stuff in it is a little brocken. The IAC is connected but I am not sure if it works. I guess the surging was something that happened after my friend adjusted the TPS. Before that it was just High Idle. I mean really high.

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I doubt that an incorrectly installed timing belt could result in a really high idle. Then again, who knows?

 

I've had the experience where the IAC will stick after the car sits for a long time. Was it sitting a long time during the timing belt swap? You can spray it with carb cleaner (inside!) and work the "shutter" back and forth. It is spring biased to be somewhat open.

 

As others have suggested, check vaccum lines, breather lines, etc.

 

You can also try plugging the tube leading to the IAC. (either plug the hose in the middle or use two caps- one on the IAC end, one on the intake boot end.) The car should idle VERY slowly or stall (regardless of what the ECU is telling the IAC to do.) If the car still idles quickly, you've got air getting into the intake manifold somehow or past the throttle plate.

 

Nathan

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If the TPS is adjusted wrong, its going to give you a high idle, and probably surging. Atleast on other cars it is that way. If you can get a volt meter, read the voltage on the TPS. At idle, adjust the TPS until the voltage is .58. As I said, this is true on other vehicles, I'm new to the newer gen sube's myself. The correct TPS voltage is pretty universal no matter what you are working on.

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Okay put the timing belt on again and made sure that it was just right. Still the Car idles really high, like its redlined! Anyway tried the IAC test as suggested. The idle didn't go any lower and the car didnt stall. So air must be getting in elswhere. Or could it be the Crank angle sensor? I replaced it before becasue the car wouldn't start. Maybe its not right. Also I ordered a ODB2 Scanner and it should be here in 7-10 Days. Problem is that I need the car running sooner. Any ideas? Thanks

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Okay put the timing belt on again and made sure that it was just right. Still the Car idles really high, like its redlined! Anyway tried the IAC test as suggested. The idle didn't go any lower and the car didnt stall. So air must be getting in elswhere.

 

So, you plugged the tube going to the IAC (both ends plugged!) and it still idles at the redline? That's a LOT of air getting through. Inspect all the intake rubber boots, breather lines, etc. Pull off the rubber boot going to the throttle body and verify that the throttle plate is really closing fully and there's nothing jammed in there, the plate isn't mangled, etc. (Unlikely, but you never know.) You should be able to find the leak somehow.

 

I'm quite certain that the crank angle sensor can't be causing this issue.

 

Nathan

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Correction, when I plug the tube or the hole on the IAC it does drop the idle. Also if I unplug the MAF Sensor it also drops the idle. I have changed out the IAC and the mass air flow sensor. Still the same. Super high idle. My hands are covered in dirt and grime and we are having a great time working on this. Just firing up the Bar-bq and we are going to really get into this. Thanks,g

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Pull off the rubber boot going to the throttle body and verify that the throttle plate is really closing fully and there's nothing jammed in there, the plate isn't mangled, etc. (Unlikely, but you never know.) You should be able to find the leak somehow.

 

I pulled off the Rubber Boot and the plate appeared to be closing just fine. Then I cleaned it out as much as I could. Just to make sure it wasnt catching. Then I started it and the idle seemed normal. I drove it down the road and the idle seemed to find it's way back up. I changed the oil and starred at it for a good long time. Seems to be running okay but the CEL threw on after about 5 Miles.

 

The air sounds like it is coming from below that throttle plate. I have checked everything and I can't find any place where it might be getting in. Perhaps the Gasket on the Throttle plate assembly? I dont know. But it does seem to idling fine at the moment.

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