FIXED!! Trany delayed forward engagement

[fleming442]

I added some Justice Brother's Automatic Transmission additive, and did another fluid change with the MaxLife. I doesn't seem to slip going into Drive anymore.

[Rooster2]

I added some Justice Brother's Automatic Transmission additive, and did another fluid change with the MaxLife. I doesn't seem to slip going into Drive anymore.

 

 

I hope the Justice Bros does the trick!

[psi@last]

Guys well i guess i'm just one more with the same problem.

I just joined the forum an actually just bought a '99 Legacy RSK Twin Turbo.

It worked fine for one day and now i have this exact problem. tranny won't always engage unless i rev a little.

i'm going to get myself some additives tomorrow if i can't find the famous product. if not i will order it and should have it withing a week.

 

I will keep you up to date if this works for me as well.

 

thanks a million!!!!

[Rooster2]

Guys well i guess i'm just one more with the same problem.

I just joined the forum an actually just bought a '99 Legacy RSK Twin Turbo.

It worked fine for one day and now i have this exact problem. tranny won't always engage unless i rev a little.

i'm going to get myself some additives tomorrow if i can't find the famous product. if not i will order it and should have it withing a week.

 

I will keep you up to date if this works for me as well.

 

thanks a million!!!!

 

 

 

Welcome to this forum. A lot of good people here to help when problems arise. I am the original author of this thread, who found that Trans-X really helps cure the problem of tray delayed forward engagement.

 

Suggest that you do a thorough drain of your trany fluid before adding Trans-X. Add and drain trany fluid three times to clean the fluid, with short driving periods between changes. No point in dropping the trany pan. There is nothing there to service, plus the trany pan is difficult to replace without leaking. There is an external trany filter on the 99's that screws on, and looks the same as an oil filter. However, internally it's made differently then an oil filter. Cost is about $30 for an external trany filter.

Add the Trans-X after the three fluid changes for best results. It is amazing, Trans-X stops the lazy forward engagement problem within 10 minutes of adding the product and driving the car.

 

Hope this advise helps........Larry (Rooster2)

[psi@last]

Yeah thanks! I actually got the trans x at a local napa dealer. i'' take care of that tomorrow. The tranny fluid is actually clean. was recently serviced in japan before the car was shipped.

 

i have another problem though, the radiator does not hold presure, coolant spouting every where.

is this normal if the car was for a long time in a lot?

any way that's going to cos me about $300.00 to have the tanks repaired.

 

thanks again other than these 2 frustrating issues the car is perfect.

 

thanks again for your help.

 

does anyone know what a jap spec auto legacy twin turbo does down the quarter mile?

[Rooster2]

Yeah thanks! I actually got the trans x at a local napa dealer. i'' take care of that tomorrow. The tranny fluid is actually clean. was recently serviced in japan before the car was shipped.

 

i have another problem though, the radiator does not hold presure, coolant spouting every where.

is this normal if the car was for a long time in a lot?

any way that's going to cos me about $300.00 to have the tanks repaired.

 

thanks again other than these 2 frustrating issues the car is perfect.

 

thanks again for your help.

 

does anyone know what a jap spec auto legacy twin turbo does down the quarter mile?

 

 

 

 

Is the motor over heating at the time the radiator does not hold pressure? If over heating, I would be concerned with bad head gaskets? Other thoughts, are, that the radiator leaks, or needs a new radiator cap.

 

If you think it is a radiator problem, then flush and refill with fresh antifreeze. Suggest flush to get rid of crap that may have built up in the cooling system. I wouldn't think having the car sit in a lot would affect the cooling system. "$300 for a tank repair," does that mean buying a new radiator? If the $300 is in US dollars, then that is priced high for an installed radiator.

 

What country do you live in to be able to import a twin turbo Subie and get it registered? Would guess that the Japanese model is right hand drive. Is that right?

[psi@last]

I live in the caribbean, yeah right hand drive jap spec.

the $300 would be to replace both end tanks, the core is fine.

a little pricy here but those are the prices.

well it did over heat because there wasn't any coolant leaft in the radiator.

the coolant was spouting out from the seams on the end tanks.

the car ran fine for 3 days and then boom.

maybe after using several radiator flush the seals break down.

Either way tomorrow i will take it to a radiator shop to have it repaired.

i'll pour in the trans X today and then tomorrow in the evening when i reinstall the radiator i can take her for a drive and the tranny issue should be solved as well.

 

i put a radiator stop leak in it and it held up fine for 1 day with the temp gauge at about half.

the next day it started spouting out again.

 

problem will be resolved tomorrow. i will post as soon as i'm ready!!!

 

 

thanks again for the feedback.

i really love tis car and can't wait to have her back on the road.

[Cougar]

the coolant was spouting out from the seams on the end tanks. the car ran fine for 3 days and then boom.

 

i put a radiator stop leak in it and it held up fine for 1 day with the temp gauge at about half.

the next day it started spouting out again.

 

I don't want to be doom sayer but from the sounds of your comments be prepared for possible headgasket leaks.

[psi@last]

I don't want to be doom sayer but from the sounds of your comments be prepared for possible headgasket leaks.

 

 

Well let's hope not, there wasn't any oil traces in the coolant though, and the engine oil is still clear and clean!

I'll get the radiator tomorrow and will re-install it.

I already added the trans X to the crank case.

So tomorrow night i'll take her for a drive and the problems should be solved.

 

Let's hope!!!!

[Rooster2]

Well let's hope not, there wasn't any oil traces in the coolant though, and the engine oil is still clear and clean!

I'll get the radiator tomorrow and will re-install it.

I already added the trans X to the crank case.

So tomorrow night i'll take her for a drive and the problems should be solved.

 

Let's hope!!!!

 

I hope the above mention of adding Trans X to the crank case is a mental typo. Trans X is to be added to the automatic transmission, not to the motor oil crank case.

 

Also, head gasket trouble with the 2.5 DOHC is such that exhaust gas enters the cooling system where the head gasket has failed. There will not be any contamination of motor oil in the cooling system.

[psi@last]

Also, head gasket trouble with the 2.5 DOHC is such that exhaust gas enters the cooling system where the head gasket has failed. There will not be any contamination of motor oil in the cooling system.

 

yess added to the tranny, my bad.

 

oh by the way my engine is a 2.0 twin turbo not the 2.5.

 

Well let's hope the head gaskets are fine.

is there any other way to tell if they are bad other the than the overheating?

 

i'm hoping it's just the radiator.

 

Again thanks for the feedback.

 

I'll keep you posted with the results later tonight.

[psi@last]

I also noticed that the radiator is very thin, like a single core. I don't know if the other subaru's cary the same radiator or if this one was changed.

I can see why it would overheat if there's a water leak.

 

keep you fingers crossed let's put some positive energy to work!!

[Rooster2]

I also noticed that the radiator is very thin, like a single core. I don't know if the other subaru's cary the same radiator or if this one was changed.

I can see why it would overheat if there's a water leak.

 

keep you fingers crossed let's put some positive energy to work!!

 

 

 

Suggest you post your over heating problem as a new thread. You will get more readers, and prolly some good advise

[psi@last]

trans x rocks!!!!! Gentlemen problem solved.

 

No overheating either.

 

new end tank and i love the car again.

 

thank you guys

[guyc]

It's was made by K&W which was bought by CRC about 10 years ago.

http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=402132&S=Y

 

Looks like parts america carries it.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductListSimple.aspx?Category=2129

 

Hello

 

@ Rooster2 and others: as I'm living in Belgium (Europe) and English isn't my mother tongue and I'm trying to buy Trans-X, can you please explain if I have to buy the earlier mentioned "Trans-X Premium ATF" http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=402132&S=Y or only the "Trans-X Automatic Transmission Slip-Stop & Leak Fix" http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=402033&S=Y and add this last one to the ATF they use in my garage?

 

Rooster2, can you please let me know which product you used, because I want to be sure to order the right one... (see http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/search_results.aspx for different products).

 

N.B. The Partsamerica-link doesn't work anymore!

 

Thanks and greetz

 

Guy

Edited May 26, 2009 by guyc

[psi@last]

Hello

 

@ Rooster2 and others: as I'm living in Belgium (Europe) and English isn't my mother tongue and I'm trying to buy Trans-X, can you please explain if I have to buy the earlier mentioned "Trans-X Premium ATF" http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=402132&S=Y or only the "Trans-X Automatic Transmission Slip-Stop & Leak Fix" http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=402033&S=Y and add this last one to the ATF they use in my garage?

 

Rooster2, can you please let me know which product you used, because I want to be sure to order the right one... (see http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/search_results.aspx for different products).

 

N.B. The Partsamerica-link doesn't work anymore!

 

Thanks and greetz

 

Guy

 

 

 

if it helps, this is the product i used to solve the problem "Trans-X Automatic Transmission Slip-Stop & Leak Fix"

[Rooster2]

if it helps, this is the product i used to solve the problem "Trans-X Automatic Transmission Slip-Stop & Leak Fix"

 

The above looks correct. I know it is not the Trans-X Premium ATF. I need to drop off some waste oil at the auto parts store tomorrow. I will check the shelf there, and I am sure will recognize the proper Trans-X product.

[Rooster2]

Hello

 

@ Rooster2 and others: as I'm living in Belgium (Europe) and English isn't my mother tongue and I'm trying to buy Trans-X, can you please explain if I have to buy the earlier mentioned "Trans-X Premium ATF" http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=402132&S=Y or only the "Trans-X Automatic Transmission Slip-Stop & Leak Fix" http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=402033&S=Y and add this last one to the ATF they use in my garage?

 

Rooster2, can you please let me know which product you used, because I want to be sure to order the right one... (see http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/search_results.aspx for different products).

 

The correct product is

 

 

 

N.B. The Partsamerica-link doesn't work anymore!

 

Thanks and greetz

 

Guy

 

 

I checked at a car parts store, the correct product is the "Trans-X Automatic Transmission Slip-Stop & Leak Fix." in the 15 oz can. It is the right size can to use in a Subie transmission.

[timstu1]

I want to thank Rooster2 for figuring this out - and posting it.

 

I have a 2000 Outback I bought with 65,000 miles about 3 years ago (now 120,000 miles). I've been dealing with what I would call a moderate to severe case of delayed start when trying to get into drive from park for about the last 2 of those years. With a mechanic I trust we've tried different things over the past year - including flushing the sytem and adding an additive -but I don't know what it was he added. It did not really change anything. I told the mechanic I wasn't going to take it to a tranny shop as long as I could reasonably get it going in gear. I really didn't feel it was a bad tranny, and neither did he. It always ran fine - as long as I could get it into gear.

 

It had become bad enough that I would not let my wife drive the car now for about a year - I didn't want her stranded somewhere. And I was careful where I parked - I always wanted to point forward so I didn't have to back up and then try and put it in drive, and I usually tried finding a spot rolling downhill. Also wanted to be away a little in the parking lots. People tend to look at you a little strange as you sit there and rev the engine before moving...

 

Anyway, I read this last thread last night, and went to the local auto store and bought some Trans-x and Valvoline maxlife at lunch today. Completed the drain and fill tonight, and I am completely amazed. It just doesn't seem possible that something so simple can fix this, but at least right now it has. Again, I am just amazed. I'm going to take the empty can of trans-x over to my mechanic tomorrow. I hope you guys keep updating how long it continues to work for you. Thanks again.

[Mehkael]

After much deliberation I decided I would try this magic elixer as well. After reading this thread in entirety and starting a thread looking for options, I determined the best course of action is the additive. I also read that the synthetic trasmission fluid has not been tested alone. I decided I would give that a try first and could always add the additive later.

 

I was barely able to find synthetic transmission fluid locally but they did have all I needed. I first went to the local Advance Auto Parts, but they did not have Syn. ATF or the exact Trans-X stop leak recommended, although they did have a different fluid from Trans-X (which didn't look correct). However, they were able to give me the volume of the 4EAT. According to Advance Auto a 4EAT flush and refill will require 6.8Qts (of Dexron III).

 

I bought a different brand of stop leak endorsed by NHRA labeled to serve the same function. I bought a 24oz. "Lucas Transmission Fix" which claims "Compatible with all transmissions and transmission fluids." as well as "Will not void new car warranties!" I figured this would be an acceptable alternate.

 

Advance also recommended a local Motor Sports shop that would carry Syn. ATF. I found "AMSOIL, Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid" in quarts or a gallon. The label says "Synthetic, GM Dexron III & VI * Ford Mercon * Mercon V & SP * Chrysler ATF+4" implying it is a good alternative for all that were listed. The owner of the shop sang praises about Syn. ATF and Syn. Engine Oil. He did not seem to prefer any one brand but AMSOIL is most effective for him to carry. He has tested it in many situations and found both fluids far superior. His justification for increased price is stability and duration of fluid life, on top of improved performance.

 

I then had a Transmission Shop flush the ATF and fill with the AMSOIL I provided leaving about a half quart low for room for the additive. I have not yet added the Lucas Stop Slip. I have been driving it occasionally over the past few weeks (irony has made me need my truck capabilities lately) and while the improvement was not instant as the original post said (no Stop Slip) it was relatively quick. I would say my trans is now performing 95% without the additive. I may try the additive after more time to see if there is any significant difference but functionally it is working fine now. I feel I need more time both driving and aging to be able to say the Syn. ATF was all that was needed.

 

I will post again when I have more proof. Thanks for all the advice!

[Rooster2]

After much deliberation I decided I would try this magic elixer as well. After reading this thread in entirety and starting a thread looking for options, I determined the best course of action is the additive. I also read that the synthetic trasmission fluid has not been tested alone. I decided I would give that a try first and could always add the additive later.

 

I was barely able to find synthetic transmission fluid locally but they did have all I needed. I first went to the local Advance Auto Parts, but they did not have Syn. ATF or the exact Trans-X stop leak recommended, although they did have a different fluid from Trans-X (which didn't look correct). However, they were able to give me the volume of the 4EAT. According to Advance Auto a 4EAT flush and refill will require 6.8Qts (of Dexron III).

 

I bought a different brand of stop leak endorsed by NHRA labeled to serve the same function. I bought a 24oz. "Lucas Transmission Fix" which claims "Compatible with all transmissions and transmission fluids." as well as "Will not void new car warranties!" I figured this would be an acceptable alternate.

 

Advance also recommended a local Motor Sports shop that would carry Syn. ATF. I found "AMSOIL, Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid" in quarts or a gallon. The label says "Synthetic, GM Dexron III & VI * Ford Mercon * Mercon V & SP * Chrysler ATF+4" implying it is a good alternative for all that were listed. The owner of the shop sang praises about Syn. ATF and Syn. Engine Oil. He did not seem to prefer any one brand but AMSOIL is most effective for him to carry. He has tested it in many situations and found both fluids far superior. His justification for increased price is stability and duration of fluid life, on top of improved performance.

 

I then had a Transmission Shop flush the ATF and fill with the AMSOIL I provided leaving about a half quart low for room for the additive. I have not yet added the Lucas Stop Slip. I have been driving it occasionally over the past few weeks (irony has made me need my truck capabilities lately) and while the improvement was not instant as the original post said (no Stop Slip) it was relatively quick. I would say my trans is now performing 95% without the additive. I may try the additive after more time to see if there is any significant difference but functionally it is working fine now. I feel I need more time both driving and aging to be able to say the Syn. ATF was all that was needed.

 

I will post again when I have more proof. Thanks for all the advice!

 

 

 

 

I wrote the original thread here. Tried the Lucas Transmisson Fix, but found it did not fix my Trany delayed forward engagement problem at all. It was a few months later, when my problem became severe, that I drained the ATF, added the Amsoil syn ATF, and the Trans-X. I am convinced that the Trans-X is what fixes the problem. Something about the Trans-X swelling seals is the key to its success. It has been nearly 18 months of running with Trans-X, and my auto trany continues to operate with no problems.

 

Be aware that this trany fix is for Subies manufactured during model years 1999 and 2000. Ealier and later model Subies with the 4EAT auto tranies don't have the delayed forward engagement problem that I am aware of.

 

Larry (Rooster2)

Edited June 29, 2009 by Rooster2
check spelling

[chughes1614@fas]

Hi Guys,

Same prob with my wifes 2001 Outback wagon she bought this past Nov. I went to my local Advance Auto tonight and bought the only Trans-X they had on the shelf. It seems a little bit different than the one used by the members here.

 

Mine says "High Mileage Trans-X 75K Repairs Leaks, Prevents Overheating Slips, Restores ATF Viscosity, Smooth Shifting"

 

Am planning on taking the car to Valvoline tomorrow for a trans flush and refil with Syn and this bottle o' magic.

 

Anyone think I should look for the other Trans-X, or will I be alright with this one? The car has 135K on it, so maybe the high mileage is a better choice?

 

Thanks

 

Chris

 

UPDATE: After checking out the CRC website, the product I bought tonight and Advance, and the product that everyone else has used (available at Auto Zone) seem too different for me to take a gamble. I'm going to return the one, and buy the other. I will post how it works. Thanks again.

Edited July 28, 2009 by chughes1614@fas
Addition

[Rooster2]

Hi Guys,

Same prob with my wifes 2001 Outback wagon she bought this past Nov. I went to my local Advance Auto tonight and bought the only Trans-X they had on the shelf. It seems a little bit different than the one used by the members here.

 

Mine says "High Mileage Trans-X 75K Repairs Leaks, Prevents Overheating Slips, Restores ATF Viscosity, Smooth Shifting"

 

Am planning on taking the car to Valvoline tomorrow for a trans flush and refil with Syn and this bottle o' magic.

 

Anyone think I should look for the other Trans-X, or will I be alright with this one? The car has 135K on it, so maybe the high mileage is a better choice?

 

Thanks

 

Chris

 

UPDATE: After checking out the CRC website, the product I bought tonight and Advance, and the product that everyone else has used (available at Auto Zone) seem too different for me to take a gamble. I'm going to return the one, and buy the other. I will post how it works. Thanks again.

 

 

 

If Trans-X is going to fix your delayed forward engagement, you will know after driving the car for only 10 minutes. Please drop a reply note on this thread telling us your experience using Trans-X. I hope the product works well for you.

[chughes1614@fas]

I just thought I'd post a picture of the correct product:

 

[85T-REX]

Do you think that would fix "not wanting to go into or out of first gear until it's warmed up"?

 

Rex