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Tunings?


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oh okay i got ya, lol took a long while to click... there isn't any mods i can do to make it faster and keep it carb'd?? i know i can and I'm about to cut off the cat and put a y pipe to open up the exshaust along with the cherry bomb muffler I put on it.... but i havn't been able to find any kind of supercharger or turbos or anything of the sort to force more power through it.... Is it possible to advance the timing on somethng that old? Cause i kind of want it to stay carb'd

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Do you know if it has a single barrel carburator or a 2bbl carb?

 

The suggestion these guys listed are not practical. There are a few things you can do.

 

If you have a 2bbl carb, you can modify it to manually open the 2nd throat.

see: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49976

 

Advance your timing a few degree's. I think the stock EA81 is supposed to be 8 degree's, I found that running at 12 degree's gives you alittle more gettyup off the line.

 

However, Im thinking your car, being a 1981 DL, is a 1600cc. If that is the case, no matter what you do to it, its still gonna be slow :(

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if your looking for something fast, i would suggest buying a legacy or impreza. maybe a xt 6 the sad truth is you wont get much out of that motor. i would just work on making it a high fuel econ. car cause we all know how high gas prices are now days :-\

Welcome to the Board.

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A Weber sounds like your speed to me. 32/36 DGV - same as much of the VW world uses.

 

Turbo or Supercharging, while possible, wouldn't go far without eating your transmission, then the engine, and ultimately your wallet as well. VW guy do this stuff all the time - sure. But at great cost in both money and reliability.

 

Be happy you have a reliable 63 HP.

 

GD

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lol i didn't think i would get much, how do you tell the carb? this is the first one I've owned it's like a whole new world.. lol where would i get the lighter rims with the spacing i need? and I'm not too keen on timeing advancing so i def. dont want to screw it up and diy sites that can help? Thanks for the info though guys and yeah i LOVE the mpg's this thing gets

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32/36 DGV. Look for them on Ebay - often listed as VW Weber's. If you get familair with the terms used around the various communities to describe the same basic carb you can often get a good deal on them. Anything under $100 for one in good condition (probably needing a cleaning and gasket replacement) is a good deal.

 

Figure about $200 or a bit more if you find one, rebuild it, buy the adaptor, and jet it yourself.

 

About $400 will get you the complete kit from Redline. It's overpriced IMO, but works for a lot of folks that don't know carbs real well.

 

There's also the SPFI swap if you prefer fuel injection and aren't scared of some wiring:

 

http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html

 

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looks like I'll be rebuilding a weber, though it's be fun to throw it into SPFI It's my daily driver so i couldn't have it parked for any length of time i think i found a link that shows the weber conversion, i don't mind spending the money but does anyone know about how long it would take to take off the stock carb and switch to a weber?

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looks like I'll be rebuilding a weber, though it's be fun to throw it into SPFI It's my daily driver so i couldn't have it parked for any length of time i think i found a link that shows the weber conversion, i don't mind spending the money but does anyone know about how long it would take to take off the stock carb and switch to a weber?

 

If you know what you are doing and have done it before - a few hours. If not - give it a weekend to install and tune it properly.

 

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all reports i've read (meaning "i don't know everything but . . .) have indicated that your fuel economy will suffer with the weber setup, greatly.

 

on my carb'ed 87 wagon, i did simple things like . . .

1) replace/refresh ignition system, i.e. spark plugs, wires, coil, battery, cap and rotor (this was the biggest for my car, spark plug wires had resistance numbers off the charts, coil was ancient, as was the battery)

2) de-smog the car, remove charcoal canister, block off egr valve, definitely open up the exhaust. it doesn't have to be loud, just free flowing.

(or, if you like (for environmental reasons), replace the filter in the charcoal canister, check function of egr valve and replace if necessary-definitely need to check for vacuum leaks if you go this route)

3) check for, and resolve any vacuum leaks

4) k/n air-filter, more air in, more oomph, as long as you've taken care of the air out part.

5) new fuel filter

6) new pvc valve

7) seafoam (cleans the insides up)

 

all of these are good ideas when you pick up a 20+ year old car anyway, and they'll improve performance a bit too :burnout:

 

chris

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hmmm, I like the mpgs of the car i don't know if i want them to suffer too bad, I'm still workin on the exhaust opening up like i said factory muffler is off cherry bomb is on. workin on removing the cat and fun stuff like that, wouldn't taking off the charcole canister and the cat eventually reduce the mpgs anyway though? K&N filter was my original plan before the weber, i gues it's the more sensible one now to save fuel. And i just replaced the wires, i can tell a difference i think mine still had factory wires on it :eek: would the performance wires be worth the money for it? or would i get little to no difference from where I'm at? fuel filter has been replaced due to the car sitting for a year and the gas litteraly ate the filter......i thought the car had died when it shut off on me and hour from where i live:-\ Anyway thanks again! and if anyone had like a rough diagram of the engine that would be super helpful, turns out japs and germs likes to do their stuff diffrently lol.

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take off the exhaust at the y pipe flange. mate a flange to a 2 " cherry bomb right after the y pipe and run straight pi;e to the rear.

 

bump the timing up a few degrees.

 

the ea82 isnt the most powerful motor in the world, but they do like rpm's and are quite fun!

 

do like i say withthe exhaust and you will have a fat midrange curve, open up the top end a little more but not lose much bottom end at the same time.

 

its not your typical 'wrx' and you can't really 'tune' it in the modern sense, but you can put it together any way you like from parts off just about any other subaru.

 

its like a big set of legos, and you get to drive it

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"its like a big set of legos, and you get to drive it" Amazing can i steal that for a signature? hahaha

 

How exactly can i bump the timing? i don't want to advance it too much and mess something up and then if that happens i don't want to retard it to much and really mess something up DIY guide please lol.. my y pipe comes next week i believe i gotta make sure i have the money for it

 

 

Once again guys thanks for all the info soobs are fun and a new world to me forgive my lack of knowledge

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Advance timing? Coupla degrees... Pretty much fill 'er up with whatever gas you're going to be running, advance timing then test drive it, no pinging? advance a little more... if it starts pinging then back it off again to where it doesn't ping while driving.

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Thanks for the info though guys and yeah i LOVE the mpg's this thing gets

Anything you do for more power, substantial power that is, will decrease your mileage. Memebers that have installed a Weber carb, properly, and drive reasonably, have seen better MPG. But as soon as you lay into the throttle to take advantage of the bigger carb, you lose that mileage increase.

 

"One other thing to consider...

 

if your car has the stock 13" steel wheels, maybe look for a set of lighter alluminum rims. You'd be surprised how much sportier a car can feel with less rotating mass on each corner."

 

I picked up some Subaru alloys for my ol' GL-10 from a board member to take advantage of that less weight. When I picked them up, I noticed that they had the same size and brand tires on it as I had on my stock steel wheels, so I weighed them to see what the difference would be. Each alloy wheel and tire combo was 1 pound lighter. Not much really. Not enough to notice any improvements anyway.

 

Tune up the car, NGK plugs and wires, good cap and rotor with brass terminals not the aluminum, tune the carb correctly, get the timing right, check the emissions to make sure they're operating properly, and install a free-flowing muffler.

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