couple questions about the 90k service tune-up

[211]

According to the service table these are the things that need to be changed during the 90k tune up:

 

• engine oil/filter
  
• coolant
  
• fuel filter
  
• air cleaner
  
• spark plugs
  
• brake fluid

Questions:

 

Coolant, are we still using the Subaru Slime? If I flush the system myself I'll have to goto the dealer to get this stuff right? If I have a shop (not the dealer) do the flush will I have to request that they use this stuff?

 

fuel filter, air cleaner, and spark plugs; can I get this from NAPA and just ask for the OEM equivalent? My understanding is that the spark plugs are a readily available NGK plug and the LPS should have the OE number.

 

What about the wires, the table doesn't include the wires. Am I to assume when they say plugs they mean the wires to? If so what should I use?

I realize the local vote is always dealer parts but has anyone found an aftermarket equivalent for Subaru OE wires?

 

Brake fluid; SERIOUSLY!?! I'm not going to do that myself, I'll just F it up somehow.

[Rooster2]

Before joining this forum, I had just tuned up my 99 with Bosch Platinum plugs and Bosch ignition wires. The car still runs just fine 10K miles later. After joining this forum, I keep reading advise here about using only Subaru OEM wires and NGK plugs. The ignition wires that I would stay avoid are the chain store "house brand" wires.

[nipper]

According to the service table these are the things that need to be changed during the 90k tune up:

• engine oil/filter
  
• coolant
  
• fuel filter
  
• air cleaner
  
• spark plugs
  
• brake fluid

Questions:

 

Coolant, are we still using the Subaru Slime? If I flush the system myself I'll have to goto the dealer to get this stuff right? If I have a shop (not the dealer) do the flush will I have to request that they use this stuff?

 

fuel filter, air cleaner, and spark plugs; can I get this from NAPA and just ask for the OEM equivalent? My understanding is that the spark plugs are a readily available NGK plug and the LPS should have the OE number.

 

What about the wires, the table doesn't include the wires. Am I to assume when they say plugs they mean the wires to? If so what should I use?

I realize the local vote is always dealer parts but has anyone found an aftermarket equivalent for Subaru OE wires?

 

Brake fluid; SERIOUSLY!?! I'm not going to do that myself, I'll just F it up somehow.

 

Air Filter Fuel Filter and NGK spark plugs from any cource.

 

PCV valve and spark plug wires from subaru, personally on the wires chnage them once every 100K or if you get a misfire code. Lesser brands use cheap silicon and they will break down and leak voltage.

 

Brake fluid is easy, remove the old fluid from the master cylinder with a turkey baster. Add new fluid and bleed normally, starting with the closest wheel first first i think. With ABS its the reverse of starting with the farthest. Closest in hydraulic lines terms is the right front.

 

nipper

[four-fleet-feet]

If your brakes are fine and don't need pads or service, I think you should find a manual and learn to do the brake bleed yourself. I haven't had the greatest experiences asking a brake shop to do a simple bleed; most shops either refuse to do a brake fluid change/bleed altogether ('if you need a change and bleed something's wrong' was the most commom retort, or 'brake fluid doesn't need replaced unless something's broken') or tell you your brakes need some service, often unnecessary. CYA is alive and well at brake shops.

 

It's really easy to do; the hardest part will be finding a turkey baster! If you do have one in the kitchen, here's the time to make the cooking person in your household happy beyond belief. Buy a new one (FIRST - afterwards at your peril) and give the cook that one, then snitch the used one.

 

Be sure you mark up the bulb on the brake baster, though - give it a really big 'brakes' or skull/crossbones - you really don't want someone thinking it needs to be washed in the sink for cooking duties (like Mom did - don't ask).

[idosubaru]

you didn't mention which engine/vehicle you have, that makes a difference in your questions.

 

If this is a 100k timing belt interval vehicle and it hasn't been done yet, i'd wait 10k miles and do everything at once with the timing belt change. With the exception of the engine oil and air filter, i'd do those now or whenever they are due. If you do the water pump with the belt change (recommended), then you're going to be loosing some of your new coolant anyway.

Coolant, are we still using the Subaru Slime?

depends what engine you have. i'm guessing you have an EJ25? and then it depends which EJ25 you have. if it's a DOHC then no, this doesn't apply to you. if it's a SOHC then yes you want it and you're dead on about getting it from Subaru.

fuel filter, air cleaner, and spark plugs; can I get this from NAPA and just ask for the OEM equivalent?

yep, sure can.

I realize the local vote is always dealer parts but has anyone found an aftermarket equivalent for Subaru OE wires?

Replace these with the plugs. You will have to replace them at some point, might as well do it with the plugs and save yourself the headache, time, future check engine lights, and risk of damaging the old ones when replacing the plugs (that's really annoying). EJ engines are very sensitive to plug wires, not all subaru engines are like this. EJ=subaru wires only. The only suitable alternative is Magnecor, I use them exclusively. More info on the boards here if you want to search for that.

 

It's statistics, with after markets you have a chance of getting a good set and a chance of not. If you don't mind taking that chance then do it. If you want a near 100% success rate then go with Subaru or magnecor. that's why you see some people saying "so-and-so brand worked for me". those that are doing lots of subaru stuff and seeing cars with 200,000+ miles aren't messing with EJ's though, in the end it's not worth the time with aftermarkets. And their just cheap plug wires, so why not go with Subaru on the advice of people that are doing this stuff all the time?

Brake fluid; SERIOUSLY!?! I'm not going to do that myself

I hate to say this, it will ruffle some feathers but i'd be lying if i didn't. Brake fluid isn't critical (assuming the system is working properly and never been tampered with/damaged...etc), many people never change it on newer cars. It is a good idea to change it. But if I was paying someone to do it i either wouldn't have it done or I'd have it done at the next brake job, not as an independent service. You never mentioned how old the vehicle is though either or if your brakes are performing flawlessly or not?

[nipper]

I hate to say this, it will ruffle some feathers but i'd be lying if i didn't. Brake fluid isn't critical, many people never change it on newer cars. It is a good idea to change it. But if I was paying someone to do it i either wouldn't have it done or I'd have it done at the next brake job, not as an independent service. You never mentioned how old the vehicle is though either or if your brakes are performing flawlessly or not?

 

I only change it if the pedal is soft, or when the brake pads get replaced myself.

 

I put this with chainging PS fluid as purely profit driven item for the dealer myself, but if someone whats to change it in thier driveway, it doesnt hurt.

 

nipper

[aircraft engineer]

ah yes - the flushing brake fluid question.

 

About the only thing that can actually happen to the fluid (aside from particulate contamination) is that it absorbs water. Water will make some of the other components deteriorate a bit faster (like the seals) and the result of that deterioration is what you see in the dirty fluid that you pump out from the cylinders/calipers when you bleed them.

 

Some of the older DOT1 fluids would get hot enough to boil. The silicones are not prone to that AT ALL.

 

What I used to see in brake testing were temps about 500F or so in fully faded systems (pads) with fluid temps of maybe 250 or so max (it's been almost 30 years and I can't remember exactly, but that's what comes to mind.) We ran 25 cycles of the Pennsylvania brake route (near Johnstown) and then tore the systems down for examination. Since it was hiway testing, we didn't do full fades except on the TRACK. The whole system got rebuilt, fluid and all - but we never did tests on the fluid and it was "clean" - hard to get new fluid dirty, even with 300 miles of "heavy duty"testing operation

 

Now, as to swapping the fluid - it makes sense depending on service. Older vehicles with hi miles, makes sense. Makes sense for vehicles driven in stop and go after maybe 2 brake pad changes (do it as part of the third change) just to flush out the gunk. It's EASY enough (but without one of the power bleeders it takes 2 people - 1 to do the pumping and 1 to work the bleeders) and not expensive, just a bit "messy" unless you use the "hose and bottle" method - put a hose down into a bottle partly filled with fluid and bleed it into the bottle - keeps the air out as well.

 

IF you suck out the old fluid in the reservoir to start with (using the "turkey baster" technique) you would need maybe 1 bottle or no mare than a QUART max. to flush and bleed the whole system.

 

Oh, and YES - changing PS fluid is a PURE profit item. It's a closed system, just runs around in a circle, and unless it gets dirt in it or leaks, there is NO NEED TO EVER CHANGE THE FLUID unless the pump started breaking down. (Even running in oil, they CAN deteriorate)

[211]

you didn't mention which engine/vehicle you have, that makes a difference in your questions.

 

 

Oops, yeah sorry

 

2000 OBW Standard (not Limited Ed) 5-spd 92,000mi

 

Brakes were done at the 60k mile service interval.

 

That being said, can we revisit the coolant question?

[idosubaru]

That being said, can we revisit the coolant question?

sure, you have the newer Phase II EJ25 SOHC (that's a good thing, this one won't leave you stranded).

i'd wait 10k miles and do everything at once with the timing belt change. If you do the water pump with the belt change (recommended), then you're going to be loosing some of your new coolant anyway. if it's a SOHC then yes you want it (subaru slime) and you're dead on about getting it from Subaru.

[nipper]

Subaru slime is like chicken soup, it can't hurt. Call a dealer and see what they get for coolant. Sometimes they are competative with auto parts stores.

[dhewitt]

Out of curiosity... is there a place where you can look up which engine specifically is in which years and models? I'm sure this is a bonehead question, but when I see all the EJs and D/SOHCs thrown around, I don't know what I'M dealing with...

 

2003 Outback Standard auto. trans

[nipper]

Out of curiosity... is there a place where you can look up which engine specifically is in which years and models? I'm sure this is a bonehead question, but when I see all the EJs and D/SOHCs thrown around, I don't know what I'M dealing with...

 

2003 Outback Standard auto. trans

 

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