monstaru Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 ok.so as i stated before.i dropped the ball.got the wrong engine for a guy.resealed it,cleaned it up.supposedly it had 130 thou on it.could be.it was relatively clean. put it in,runs awesome.but since their is no egr.it codes.he is not necessarily concerned it seems.except that he is concerned about the next time he goes through emmissions. i have looked on the ecology website for more info on replacement motors ,but could not find any. will call them as well.but then i would be told that the owner may want to sell it.which is a valid thought on his part seeing as he is a driving salesman as of late.good car=good gas mileage and good mileage= more in tha pocket. now.i have read other posts that are newer dealing with codes and swaps.some folks were talking about resistors in line with the harness or changing heads.do not want to get a different head.do not want to learn how to put in a resistor.the resistor i dea i though was good at first,but then what happens with flow codes?they show up and you are in the same boat.another head would be easy i guess.but i always went the way of "if it ain't broke,don't fix it".sooo.... umm,i think i am going to tap the exhaust pipe. the questions where?,do you think copper will do it ,and whatever else could be associated.....come to mind. i am thinking the closer to the head the better,and using copper flex pipe i think i could be successful. it appears to me that the old egr pipes i have are some type of copper mix.my concerns are obviously heat related at this point. opinions,suggestions?does anyone think that copper is a bad choice for this? does anyone think that the length of the pipe as being an issue? etc,etc........ cheers,brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted April 30, 2008 Author Share Posted April 30, 2008 probably in the wrong spot.can we move this to swaps please?cheers,brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 probably in the wrong spot.can we move this to swaps please?cheers,brianwhy not just swap in the intake from the right engine. this is bound to work even if it cost a little more. but then i don't really understand what you are trying to do with the exhaust or how difficult it will be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted May 1, 2008 Author Share Posted May 1, 2008 the intake will be swapped.the problem after that is no egr port on the head.hence the tapping of the exhaust manifold in some spot.cheers, brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted May 4, 2008 Author Share Posted May 4, 2008 bueller? bueller???? no one has any idea what kind of metal the egr pipe is?it appears on further inspection it is steel.at least it seems that way.i am not even close to being a metalurgist,so any ideas would be accepted as valid and be considered a sociable response. cheers, brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 how are you going to do the exhaust side? tapping and threading an insert or getting an O2 type bung and welding that into the exhaust. if you need to weld to the exhaust then you'll need something you can weld. seems like some general steel pipe (like exhaust type material) would be ideal, then if you attach that to the exhaust there's no concerns about different expansion rates. i went and checked for you, the O2 sensor thread is larger than the EGR, so you can't just install an O2 bung (all muffler shops have tons of those, they've given them to me for free before) and then re-tap it to the threads you want. but...probably wouldn't be hard to buy some reducers, cram them and/or weld them into the bung. now that i think about it...since the O2 sensor bung is larger you might be able to get the kind of adapter you want (thread you wish to use) and weld that into the O2 sensor bung...if you can find one with an OD smaller than the ID of the O2 bung. there's a lot of options and i don't necessarily know what you're available resources, parts, or materials are to work with. nor am i metal expert either so even if i did know i don't know how much help i'd be?!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted May 4, 2008 Author Share Posted May 4, 2008 definitely have the bung idea.i guess i am worried about matching the egr pipe type of metal to whatever tubing i got.i am going to go get a head from pull and save today to see exactly how the egr port is routed.tear into it and see if i can drill the head.cheers, brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 i have a 1997 EJ22 engine that is a non-EGR engine. it's the only 97 i've ever seen without EGR. even more odd is that it came out of an automatic Impreza OBS and every one of those i've ever seen has EGR. anyway, the head has the spot for EGR, has a boss there that i'm sure can be drilled and tapped. but i would certainly want a loose head to visualize where i'm drilling into, so sounds like you're headed in the right direction. good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 Depending on where you tap in, you really should use steel tubing. Copper should hold up to the heat itself, but the heat cycles combined with the vibration over time will probably cause the copper tubing to become brittle and crack. This embrittlement/cracking would be most pronounced at the exhaust port junction (highest heat...duh), and should diminish rapidly with distance as the tubing conducts/radiates the gas' heat. If you wanted to risk the dissimilar-metals issue (which you are already considering doing), you might run steel for a bit with whatever straight-tube and angled-fittings you might find, and then switch to copper for the really bent parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaysmachone Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 ok.so as i stated before.i dropped the ball.got the wrong engine for a guy.resealed it,cleaned it up.supposedly it had 130 thou on it.could be.it was relatively clean. put it in,runs awesome.but since their is no egr.it codes.he is not necessarily concerned it seems.except that he is concerned about the next time he goes through emmissions. i have looked on the ecology website for more info on replacement motors ,but could not find any. will call them as well.but then i would be told that the owner may want to sell it.which is a valid thought on his part seeing as he is a driving salesman as of late.good car=good gas mileage and good mileage= more in tha pocket. now.i have read other posts that are newer dealing with codes and swaps.some folks were talking about resistors in line with the harness or changing heads.do not want to get a different head.do not want to learn how to put in a resistor.the resistor i dea i though was good at first,but then what happens with flow codes?they show up and you are in the same boat.another head would be easy i guess.but i always went the way of "if it ain't broke,don't fix it".sooo.... umm,i think i am going to tap the exhaust pipe. the questions where?,do you think copper will do it ,and whatever else could be associated.....come to mind. i am thinking the closer to the head the better,and using copper flex pipe i think i could be successful. it appears to me that the old egr pipes i have are some type of copper mix.my concerns are obviously heat related at this point. opinions,suggestions?does anyone think that copper is a bad choice for this? does anyone think that the length of the pipe as being an issue? etc,etc........ cheers,brian There is a casting boss on the left rear head that you can drill with a 9/16 bit and then tap it out, then use a stock egr tube. Everything on the inside of the head is correct for egr, just the hole was never drilled for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Come off the manifold with steel tubing to a JIC fitting and do the same on the exhaust. Connect the two with braided stainless flex. Go to a coupleing/hose supplier and have them build what you need. It's not a big deal for them. Or just drill/tap the port on the head and do it the right way. I don't understand all this talk of tapping into the exhaust pipe - there's just no reason for that. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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