spokanesoob Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 well i found myself thinking, and im pretty dangerous when i partake in such acts, but i came to the realization i know Jack squat about turbo "terms" and what,i assume, is basic knowledge. so i have a few questions. like, how to hook up and run a intercooler, and a BOV, and whats the diffrence between a BOV and BVP if thats even the right abbreviation? also, what are the advantages and dis advantages, and is the waste gate actuator still hooked up with the Bov? im thinking im a noob when it comes to turbos. but, unlike most of my friends i want to learn instead of going the hey put this on my car for me here is 2 grand and i dont care how or why it works, route. thanks guys, oh and sorry if this is the wrong section for this thread. Jordan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 well i found myself thinking, and im pretty dangerous when i partake in such acts, but i came to the realization i know Jack squat about turbo "terms" and what,i assume, is basic knowledge. so i have a few questions.like, how to hook up and run a intercooler, and a BOV, and whats the diffrence between a BOV and BVP if thats even the right abbreviation? also, what are the advantages and dis advantages, and is the waste gate actuator still hooked up with the Bov? im thinking im a noob when it comes to turbos. but, unlike most of my friends i want to learn instead of going the hey put this on my car for me here is 2 grand and i dont care how or why it works, route. thanks guys, oh and sorry if this is the wrong section for this thread. Jordan. Intercooler takes some custom fab. BOV is a blow off valve, it's the ones you hear. It just dumps the excess charged air out into the atmosphere. BPV is bypass valve. It's the same thing as a BOV but dumps the air back into the intake side of the turbo. Recycles the air per se. I'm not sure about having the waste gate unhooked with a BPV or BOV. I guess if you have the BPV/BOV set to dump at a certain PSI, it'd be ok to Bypass the wastegate, but I think not having a wastegate would overrun the BOV/BPV. What kind of car do you have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spokanesoob Posted April 30, 2008 Author Share Posted April 30, 2008 88 rx. so what is the need for dumping the air? or is it just for sound? i do love that sound. oh and another prolly dumb question where do you plumb in the line for a boost gauge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPGsuperchargedBrumby Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 wastegate controls how much boost(i.e. 8psi ) you have.... a BOV or a BPV vents excess pressure when you close the throttle.....turbo doing 100,000rpm's....air its pumping got to go somewhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reveeen Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 how to hook up and run a intercooler An intercooler is a closed air to air heat exchanger that mounts inline between the turbo charger and the intake manifold to cool the air charge entering the engine. Compressing air with a turbocharger heats the air and this cools it. whats the diffrence between a BOV and BVP One vents to the atmosphere, the other vents to the intake system, same function, (preventing excessive pressure under a closed throttle condition), different noise. is the waste gate actuator still hooked up with the Bov? It should be, the wastegate actuator controls the baseline boost. where do you plumb in the line for a boost gauge? The intake manifold, as close to the backside of the throttle plate as possible, but pressure equalizes, so placement is not too important, but not down by the head(s). Probably the most successful common vehicle that is turbocharged are Saabs, some time spent checking one out wouldn't be wasted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 You need the waste gate in almost all applications as it prevents the turbo from running too fast. It can overheat and cook the oil. Almost all Subaru turbo's run bushings rather than bearings and the turbo will be TRASH if you overheat it and coke the oil. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 If you want a first mod, get yourself a turbo timer before anything else. It keeps the motor running for a specified time after you've shut it off to let the turbo, engine,and oil a chance to cool down a bit before shutting off. If not, then oil will coke inside the turbo and like GD said, it'l be garbage. For the intercooler, the easiest way to help you know where it'll need to be plmbed in, is to remember that it will replace the "4wd turbo" plenum on top of the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 If not, then oil will coke inside the turbo and like GD said, it'l be garbage. That's comparitively rare on stock turbo's with stock boost levels. The thing would have to be RED hot when you shut it off (not impossible), and there would have to be almost no coolant flow through it. The coolant will continue to circulate via convection and prevent the oil passages from getting hot enough to cook the oil. Although if, by some circumstances, you do cook the oil inside the turbo - there is little that can be done to fix them. First mod I would do is an intercooler, oil cooler, larger radiator (more capacity, more cooling surface), and added cooling fan capacity. From there you need an array of gauges to make ANY modifications toward higher power output - Exhaust gas temp, wideband air/fuel, boost, coolant temp, oil temp - AT A MINIMUM. Cylinder head temp, oil pressure, and vacuum (often integrated with boost) are strongly reccomended for proper tuning. A Lean mixture under boost will destroy an engine in SECONDS. THE biggest problem folks run into with turbo's is lack of cooling. The second biggest is lack of fueling. Turbo's run rich and hot. The number one mistake people make is spending their money on "go fast" parts without the neccesary knowledge or insturmentation to safely implement them. That's why there's so few "reliable" modded turbo's out there. There's at least $1,000 worth of supporting mods that are absolutely neccesary before you gain even 1 HP. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zukiru Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 a grand is a decent estimate to do a proper set up for running more boost. but it's a little high. fuel pump (walbro) 125 wideband o2 about 300 if you can count/have clock you don't need a turbo timer accurate boost gauge 100 intercooler (cheap junk yard stuff works think mitsubishi starion or mazda 323 gtx) I got my GTX IC for 20 bucks. bpv(recommended) or BOV spend 150 will net you something nice (I like turbo XS RFL myself) manual boost controller 15 bucks make sure you have no codes and a clean cooling system before you even consider turning the boost up I wrecked the Head on My Starion because I lost coolant while running 16 PSI find a popular turbo car and read at their forum I learned a lot about boost on the starion/conquest forum. have fun and keep a cool head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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