Timing belt change, '01 Forrester

[jnaught]

I am about due for this procedure. The shop manual calls out some special tools for this, but is there a method without buying these? All input appreciated.

[TheSubaruJunkie]

I cant think of any special tools that you would need. Can you elaborate on what the manual asks for?

[hohieu]

No special tools needed to remove the crank pulley bolt. Here are some notes I posted after doing the T-Belt on my 99 Forester 2.5 SOHC.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61525

 

If you're planning to replace the 3 front seals, which most here would advise, you should crack the cam pulley bolts just a bit before removing the T-belt -- it will make removing them a easier after the belt is off. I used pipe wrench (visegrips with a chain) over a section of the old belt to hold the crank pulleys still while removing and installing the bolts.

 

Check the idler pulleys, epspecially the toothed one, which I replaced for peace of mind. If there's no play in them, it's also possible to regrease them.

 

You already have the Endwrench article on T-belt service for the 2.2 SOHC engine, right? The procedure is almost identical to to the EJ25 Phase II engine.

[aircraft engineer]

Those "special tools" are shown in the articles down at the bottom of this post

 

 

You don't really NEED the pin wrench to hold the crank pulley to undo the bolt.

 

Pull out the fans and cover the back of the rad with an old pillow.

 

Then put a long breaker bar with a 22mm (might be 21) short socket over the bolt and brace the bar against the front frame horn.

 

Hit the starter for about 2 seconds and it is "loosened".

 

IF you use the chain wrench method to hold the crank pulley, find an old drive belt (not the timing belt - the AC or PS/ALT belt) and cut it to fit over the crank grooved pulley. Then when you tighten the chain, you won't hurt the grooves on the drive pulley.

 

You need to tighten the crank bolt to about 100ft-lbs or more to about 120 or so. The chain wrench will dig into the grooves and "hurt" the pulley - you will eat belts rather "quickly".

 

 

Since you are tossing the old timing belt anyway, there are "holes" in the crank drive cogged pulley that you can put in a couple of allen wrenches and use a box end wrench over 1 and brace against the other to stop the crank from turning and thus the timing belt from moving.

 

Cam sprocket bolts come right off. I used a "trick" with a crowfoot wrench and a drive handle to hold the sprocket from turning to TIGHTEN the cam sprocket bolts when I put them back on - it would have worked to take them off as well.

 

Pulling the oil pump is the EASIEST way to replace the crank seal and you can loctite (use RED if you have it) and tighten the oil pump screws at the same time (some come loose after use) - remember to get a tube of Permatex anaerobic sealant to seal the oil pump back to the block.

 

Cam seals are "easier" - pull the driver's side mount entirely, remove/replace the seal and replace the o-ring between the housing and the head when you re-install the housing. Pax side is more "difficult" - you will need to "pick it out" - a small pick set

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94500

works well -

 

Don't scratch the inside of the housing or the cam seal face though.

 

Driver's side sprocket has the lobes for the cam sensor and IF you take off the sensor, you will need to remove it BEFORE you pull the seal housing.

 

Seating the seals is easily done with a 1-1/4 inch plastic PVC pipe cap as a "driver".

 

Tap on the plastic cap and seat the seal to the same depth it was when you took it out.

 

Oil pump seal seats to the bottom of the "groove" (all the way in) Pax side cam seal isn't difficult but there isn't much room to "hammer" on the cap - be careful - the radiator is right there.

 

Remember to use the correct marks for timing and set them up before taking off the pieces. A bit of paint/nail polish/whiteout (etc) will help you see where the marks are. CRANK KEYWAY IS DOWN when the system is "in time" so it's a quick way to start.

 

Replace the timing belt bearing pulleys at the same (2 "flat", 1 "cogged', 1 on the tensioner) as well as the water pump (yeah, it probably is still working OK but IF you do it now it will likely go the life of the timing belt)

 

Reset the tensioner (careful, it takes a bit of time so that you don't damage the tensioner itself), put on the belt and then "just put it all back together"

 

See the "endwrench" article winter 2001 but be careful - it shows mostly the PHASE 1 engine - you have PHASE 2 - the tensioner is DIFFERENT. 2.2 and 2.5 are the "same" as far as the timing belt stuff.

 

http://www.endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf

 

http://www.endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf <--this one has the "rest of it"

 

probably more info than you wanted.

[idosubaru]

definitely don't need any special tools to do a timing belt.