kybishop Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 Going to replace the timing belt, was wonder what else to look at while in there. Saw this from Grossgary's post "inspect all of your idler pulleys and seals while you're in there - crank seal, oil pump seals, cam seals, cam cap orings. replace any noisey pulleys or leaking seals." I was going to do this because the EA82 has 149,000 miles on it and I have no history of maintenance. Just got the car. If the belt goes, do these engines survive typically or do most replace these at the recommended intervals. Any advice on what elso to look at and replace while doing the belt is greatly appreciated. New to these Subaru's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 If its the EA82, if you loose the timing belt the engine will survive. What i would do are all the seals, inspect the oil pump and think about replacing it. The idler and stensioner I would closely inspect and determine if they need it or not. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 timing belt is a "60,000 mile replacement" item. oil seals replace upon inspection..if it's leaking and wet then replace it. the pulleys are typically noisy and not smooth by now. they're 20 years old and devoid of grease. this is true of any 20 year old vehicle, not just subaru's. i always get the ebay kits, you can get them for like $89 (off the top of my head) and they include all new pulleys. well worth the increase in reliability it for such a cheap price. or you can inspect and replace individually but they tend to be expensive bought one at a time. old pulleys will seize and break your belt again, so replacing them is ideal but not necessary. if that extra reliability isn't worth it to you then don't worry about it. water pumps are often recommended as well because if they fail you have to remove the timing belt to replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 timing belt is a "60,000 mile replacement" item. oil seals replace upon inspection..if it's leaking and wet then replace it. the pulleys are typically noisy and not smooth by now. they're 20 years old and devoid of grease. this is true of any 20 year old vehicle, not just subaru's. i always get the ebay kits, you can get them for like $89 (off the top of my head) and they include all new pulleys. well worth the increase in reliability it for such a cheap price. or you can inspect and replace individually but they tend to be expensive bought one at a time. old pulleys will seize and break your belt again, so replacing them is ideal but not necessary. if that extra reliability isn't worth it to you then don't worry about it. water pumps are often recommended as well because if they fail you have to remove the timing belt to replace it. I dont recall on the ea82 if that is true... its been a while. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 You don't have to remove the timing belts to replace the water pump. I believe you just have tor remove the timing covers. However, since you're in there, probably a good idea to replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 you can replace the water pump without pulling the tbelt, but it's a pain. and you have to remove the tbelt covers. so yea, do it now. don't bother inspecting the idler and tensioners. just replace them. I've been left on the road many times by broken timing belts, and only once was it just because the belt broke..... and yea, you can do cam and crank seals. meh, I usually didn't. that's not very high on the list of things that start to get leaky on EA82s. definitely inspect and reseal (and get the seals from the dealer. it's only a few bucks for them) the oil pump. the cam case o-rings would be a pretty good idea, but will involve quite a bit more work. and pretty much just help prevent lifter tick. and if you're going in to do that, get new valve cover gaskets (the gasket itself as well as the seals on the bolts). in my opinion, don't bother unless you're already tearing stuff apart to do head gaskets or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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