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what are you having a problem with? i'm guessing you can't get the caliper arm to budge? there's only one bolt to remove i believe. you might be encountering rust issues, i've found rear legacy caliper arms very difficult to swing up once the bolt is removed. it's just due to lack of grease and rusted caliper sliding pins.

 

use a hammer or jack on the ears of the caliper arm to get it to start sliding upwards (once the bolt is properly removed of course!!!!).

 

once you get it up you're next problem will be pushing the caliper arm in towards the car to get it to come off the top pin that it pivots on. that can be tricky too.

 

have some PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or Deep Creep (do not use WD40) ready to try and squirt in there.

 

be sure to take it all apart, clean up all the sliding portions and grease them with brake caliper grease only.

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update, autozone has what i need in stock, looks like one side really worn down and very rusty, and badly groved rotor, the other side has a different pad on and looks alittle better, but going to change both sides, here is question should i go ahead and replace the the rear calipers also, since everything is so rusty, ???

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if you have the money and feel it would be a good idea..go for it.....but if there are no leaks around the brakes lines or the caliper itself and you know it still works that i would say its kind of pointless to replace the caliper........if it was me i would just do pads and rotors.....than again i dont know how many miles are on the car.......

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I was just at Autozone last week. I bought a couple packages of caliper sliding pin grease. It is a special grease made for this purpose only. Autozone sells small flat plastic squease packages. One package does one wheel. It is really esential to remove the two pins, clean them well, then squease the grease inside the rubber boots before reinserting the pins. When finished, you will be assurred that the pins will be able to slide properly.

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