mtnman38 Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 Ok so im swaping the weber yesterday and I pulled the old weber of and put a different weber back on In the prosess I tried to hook up the new electric choke to a positive wire I chose the one that had power to the old stock carb old emissions stuff(three plug with blue and white wires) after that I heard a spark and no dash lights at all no guages no nothing shell crank all day but does not fire also if I start my other brat the fuel relay thingy on the fire wall next to the hood latch doesnot not click but when I turn over the brat in question it clicks twice then i pulled the one out of the nonrunning brat and switched them they did the same thing the good brat started on the other just turns so I think the two might be un relaited but it does not hurt to ask I have checked all fuses and fuseable links all good the fuse terminal that is on the bottom right side of the box is a 5a and its dead the fuse is good just no power to the fuse it self this is new. I have fuel I can hear the pump running Ive look at many other post about this but nothing fit my symptoms just a seems like a bunch of arguments and people getting off topic thanks in advance Im gonna go back out and tinker some more LT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 The only other fuse that I can think of is one under the dash by the steering colume in a in-line white plastic holder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 It would be very helpful to have something to test for voltage with to help you find this trouble. Hopefully you have a test light probe or meter to test things with. Since the dash lights and gauges aren't working I suspect that you have a bad fusible link causing this trouble. I will try to check some data on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnman38 Posted May 4, 2008 Author Share Posted May 4, 2008 The only other fuse that I can think of is one under the dash by the steering colume in a in-line white plastic holder. Ive looked for this but still have not been able to find it it has some hacking under there it also has two ecus of course this is not stock all the duct tape wraped around it gave that away can u say conduction thanks ill keep an eye out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnman38 Posted May 4, 2008 Author Share Posted May 4, 2008 It would be very helpful to have something to test for voltage with to help you find this trouble. Hopefully you have a test light probe or meter to test things with. Since the dash lights and gauges aren't working I suspect that you have a bad fusible link causing this trouble. I will try to check some data on this. I have a test light so no propblem there thats what ive been using so far and meter I changed out all of the fuseable links and cleaned the terminals I checked all of the easy stuff all thats left to find is turbones suggestion and the ignightor cause i have fuel but no spark thanks:headbang: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 Great, you have a test light. No spark. Just to make sure you are on the right track, have you checked for power getting to the positive side and the minus side of the ignition coil with the ignition ON? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 Hmmm, 2 ECU's. So, exactly what are we working on here? Might need to trace back the wiring for the elec choke and figure out what went pop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnman38 Posted May 4, 2008 Author Share Posted May 4, 2008 Great, you have a test light. No spark. Just to make sure you are on the right track, have you checked for power getting to the positive side and the minus side of the ignition coil with the ignition ON? no power to either side of coil seems that this whole section is dead the weird thing was it has to do with the three plug connector that plugs in to the hitachi its the three plug thats with the temp unit wire and the oil pressure wire in that clump I plugged my electric cock wire in and it sparked back then she died that wire in question still has power as we speak with key off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnman38 Posted May 4, 2008 Author Share Posted May 4, 2008 Hmmm, 2 ECU's.So, exactly what are we working on here? Might need to trace back the wiring for the elec choke and figure out what went pop. yea shes custom:rolleyes: its my 82 brat with the 84 front end and the exstended cab:headbang: this is the one that came from svengoli seven and was well used buy other board members before he got it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 Seriously - just start over. Get an unhacked wireing harness and start from scratch. Sounds like a serious mess - the amount of time you'll spend troubleshooting it now, and later on when another issue crops up will be far longer than swapping the whole harness. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 So no power to the coil. Standby, let me check some data I have that may cover this. Well I don't have data for the Brat but this may be close enough. The info for a Loyale of that era shows fuse 12 provides power to the coil. Have you checked all the fuses in the dash fuse panel for a problem using your tester? I think you stated that you did that already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnman38 Posted May 4, 2008 Author Share Posted May 4, 2008 So no power to the coil. Standby, let me check some data I have that may cover this. sweet standing by Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 Well I don't have data for the Brat but this may be close enough. The info for a Loyale of that era shows fuse 12 provides power to the coil. Have you checked all the fuses in the dash fuse panel for a problem using your tester? I think you stated that you did that already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnman38 Posted May 4, 2008 Author Share Posted May 4, 2008 Seriously - just start over. Get an unhacked wireing harness and start from scratch. Sounds like a serious mess - the amount of time you'll spend troubleshooting it now, and later on when another issue crops up will be far longer than swapping the whole harness. GD it has not been bad till after I plugged in the choke on the weber that will be the answer after I spend a little time searching Ill just rewire with new good stuff I just wana figure it out so that I have the knowledge for the next subaru Ya know Im not the type to waist lots of time once I peak its over start rippn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 My 84 through 87 Brat/Hatch wireing diagram book shows fuse 13 as being coil power. But it could be different on an 82. Sadly this stuff changed almost yearly till 84. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnman38 Posted May 4, 2008 Author Share Posted May 4, 2008 Well I don't have data for the Brat but this may be close enough. The info for a Loyale of that era shows fuse 12 provides power to the coil. Have you checked all the fuses in the dash fuse panel for a problem using your tester? I think you stated that you did that already. Yea I tested all of the fuses all are working other than the 5a charge fuse the fuse is good the whole terminal is dead I switched out the alternator (Ihad a spare) still nothing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 What color is the wire going to the plus side of the coil? You might try looking for the same color going to the fuse panel. My data shows a blk/wht wire between the two points. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 You stated the alternator circuit isn't working also. This points to a common failure point of one of the red fusible links. If the links have been tested for voltage on both sides under load then there may be a failed wire connection underneath the links. You should have noticed a failure of voltage getting to some of the fuses in the fuse panel though if that is the case. If you have power on all the fuses in the fuse panel then the trouble would seem to be in the wire connection between what ever fuse ties to the coil and the coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnman38 Posted May 4, 2008 Author Share Posted May 4, 2008 What color is the wire going to the plus side of the coil? You might try looking for the same color going to the fuse panel. My data shows a blk/wht wire between the two points. the color is yellow I dont see the same color in the fuse panel so all of the emissions stuff that had power are all dead @ the engine i used one of them for my fuel pump before Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnman38 Posted May 4, 2008 Author Share Posted May 4, 2008 You stated the alternator circuit isn't working also. This points to a common failure point of one of the red fusible links. If the links have been tested for voltage on both sides under load then there may be a failed wire connection underneath the links. You should have noticed a failure of voltage getting to some of the fuses in the fuse panel though if that is the case. If you have power on all the fuses in the fuse panel then the trouble would seem to be in the wire connection between what ever fuse ties to the coil and the coil. I do remember something about this must have been in the cob webs ill check wait if I have power on both sides of the fuseable link then its not at that point right its trace time for the coil to coil ill let ya know what I come up with Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 If you have power getting to all the fuses in the fuse panel then it would seem the connection to the coil is at fault. The problem to the alternator is still in question then as I think it is on a different leg from the fuse panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnman38 Posted May 5, 2008 Author Share Posted May 5, 2008 so I took the cluster out today to trace wires I isolated the coil power wire thay were melted together in the middle of the harness so I think I found the problem I just put a new harness in as mentioned befor seemed easer than wondering what will go wrong next Thanks to all for the help:headbang: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 5, 2008 Share Posted May 5, 2008 It sounds like something may not be protected with a fuse correctly. I would make sure that the circuit to the coil has a fuse tied to it and is the proper size. Glad you got it fixed and thanks for the feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnman38 Posted May 6, 2008 Author Share Posted May 6, 2008 It sounds like something may not be protected with a fuse correctly. I would make sure that the circuit to the coil has a fuse tied to it and is the proper size. Glad you got it fixed and thanks for the feedback. Yea I replaced everything including the fuse box as far as protected before there is no way I could not even find the coil fuse or the head light relay I went from 4 to 2 and well long story but I surprised that the whole brat did not burst into a blue green flame going down the road thanks to you:headbang: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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