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Pretty Sure Its the Water Pump


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I think ive found the culpret. Now ive read in here about when you do a waterpump its pretty involved so if im gonna do it im gonna do it all

 

1st Where can i get the waterpump cheeply

 

2nd Im not going to change the timeing belts because they were changed about 10thousand miles ago or so.

 

3rd Does anyone have a spare set of timeing belt covers they want to give away. Mine have holes in them.

 

4th I should also do the crank case gasket, oil pump gaskets, and i might as well flush the whole system while im tearing stuff apart right.

 

5th Ask McBrat my engine looks like the exon valdiez so are there any other gaskets fairly close to that area i should replace as well while the whole front of the motor is tore out.

 

Any other tips or suggestions will be apreciated. This will be my first time really diging into this car so i would like any help i could get.

 

Thanks Ben

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assuming EA82:

This isn't a bad job at all. Rust is your enemy here and those stupid timing belt inserts. If I were you i'd plan on cracking the housing for any inserts that are stuck and spinning in their bores (you'll know what i mean when you go to do it if you don't already). Crack the ears just enough to get the insert out, remove it and then when you put it back together use zipties through the ears.

 

stuff located behind the timing belt that you should do all at the same time (it's all very easy to access once the timing belts are off):

replace the water pump and gasket (rock auto is one of my fav's here too)

thermostat - Subaru only on this one

crank seal

(2) cam seal kits (get the kits, not the seals - the kits come with the cam cap oring as well)

oil pump gasket

oil pump o-ring

oil pump shaft seal

 

 

Additional notes:

replace the valve cover gaskets as well. try and score a set of fel-pro gaskets that include the grommets, often you can find them relatively cheap. almost all older engines need valve cover gaskets, they're just old, dried and leak like seives.

 

I'd consider an ebay timing belt kit while it's all apart. not for the timing belt but for the timing belt pulleys. unless yours were addressed then it's likely they are a bit noisy or rough meaning they are low on grease and could seize. they are really cheap considering what you get, all new timing belt pulleys. it's about as close as you can get to garuanteeing you won't have to touch anything for 60,000 miles and that's important for people that need their car or travel a lot (like myself).

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just did my timing belts for the first time. It was surprisingly simple and didn't take very long. Just some encouragement before the attack. I used to breaker bar and starter trick to get the pulley off. good luck.

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when i do water pumps with other work i always like to flush the system real well. i've had good results with prestone's flush in the little yellow bottle. i leave it in for a couple few days of regular driving (which you may not be able to do if the pump is good'n'skrewd) then when i pull everything apart i use a garden hose to flush the block and rad further.

 

also, i don't know if ea82's have the drain bolts on the heads but lots of chunky junk likes to settle around those things regardless of what engine they're on. use a good sealant and you won't need to replace the washers - i never have.

 

anyone with cooling problems ever tried purple ice? i used it in a built dodge 360 and it cooled things a noticeable amount.

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are you talking about the engine gasket kit that comes with this kit.

 

Ben

 

Yes. The valve cover gaskets didn't fit that well, and the cam seals and/or o-rings that came with the kit are already leaking a little.

When I bought the stuff, I bought the engine gasket kit and the timing belt kit separately. The same place (Import Experts) have just the belts, tensioners, and idler on ebay for around $60.

Andy

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