trikerbob Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 Hi guys, I know many of you will know this, but I can't find the answer in my book. I getting ready to install new duel port heads and the new manifold that Scott machined to accept the Weber carb, on my Trike. I know torquing the heads is a 3 step process but I can't find the proper torque figures for each step. Can one of you tell me whaqt it is? Thanks, Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audio_file Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 per FSM step one to 22ft-lbs step two to 43ft-lbs step three to 47ft-lbs the order of tightening is listed as well 1st inside center bolt (at 6oclock-ish, but up higher) 2nd and 3rd: top two bolts at (11 and 1 ish) 4th and 5th: inside bottom bolts (5 and 7 oclock) 6th and 7th: upper outside bolts (10 and 2) 8th and 9th: lower outside bolts (8 and 4 oclock) hope that helps, wish i could've figured out how to just paste the whole page!! chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 Specs form Fuji are 22, 43, then 47 ft lbs. Most board members here I believe run a higher final torque. Like 55 to 60 at least. Carefully though, don't want to strip threads. Recently, after doing alot more EJ Headgaskets, I've adapted some of the newer EJ torquing techniques into my routine for EAs. Specifically the final tightening by degrees instead of raw torque. I ussually go 35 ft lbs, then 45. Then I back each bolt off 90 degrees. Retorque to 45. Then I go 90 degrees further on all bolts. If I use cheapo Headgaskets I often retorque after the motor has been run for a while. *** Either method should be done with lightly oiled bolts(10w 30). Oil the threads, and in between bolt head and washer. Otherwise the friction will produce higher torque readings, without actually clamping hard enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trikerbob Posted May 14, 2008 Author Share Posted May 14, 2008 Specs form Fuji are 22, 43, then 47 ft lbs. Most board members here I believe run a higher final torque. Like 55 to 60 at least. Carefully though, don't want to strip threads. Recently, after doing alot more EJ Headgaskets, I've adapted some of the newer EJ torquing techniques into my routine for EAs. Specifically the final tightening by degrees instead of raw torque. I ussually go 35 ft lbs, then 45. Then I back each bolt off 90 degrees. Retorque to 45. Then I go 90 degrees further on all bolts. If I use cheapo Headgaskets I often retorque after the motor has been run for a while. *** Either method should be done with lightly oiled bolts(10w 30). Oil the threads, and in between bolt head and washer. Otherwise the friction will produce higher torque readings, without actually clamping hard enough. Ok Guys thanks, thats what I needed to know. bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now