Please help us pick the best 01-03 Outback VDC vehicle below so we can join the club!

[mountainwalker]

Thanks to this forum’s help, I’ve narrowed our Outback search to an H6 VDC edition, roughly 01-05 model years, and would appreciate your feedback on the following VDC vehicles we’re evaluating. I’d like to send the best 1-2 options for a thorough garage inspection right away. Which are the best 1-2 values to send for inspection? Which would you be cautious about/stay away from?

 

All are supposed to be in good cosmetic condition, but can’t be sure about the mechanics until an inspection, and the cost of inspections can start to add up.

 

Arranged in order of year and asking price, includes mileage and KBB and Edmunds estimates based on temporary assumption of car’s condition based on seller description (before I have inspected).

 

A) 2001, Miles 130,000, Asking $8,000, Dealer seller. KBB $10,875, Edmunds $10,528, assuming good condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. Concerned the big delta between the asking price and KBB and Edmunds could mean something is seriously wrong.

 

2001, Miles 82,740, Asking $12,000, Individual seller. KBB $12,755, Edmunds $13,168, assuming excellent condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. Seller claims that car was always dealer serviced.

 

C) 2001, Miles 60,680, Asking $12,400, Individual seller. KBB is $14,170 Edmunds $13,958 assuming excellent condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. Seller says he bought from previous owner (a son who inherited from father and didn’t need the car). Seller says he buys a few cars/year, cleans them up for resale to make a few bucks. Condition notes - small ding on driver’s side door, tiny paint scratch over rear bumper that was painted over, a little scuffing on outside of driver’s seat.

 

D) 2003, Miles 74,800, Asking $14,000, Dealer seller. KBB $14,505, Edmunds $16,176, assuming good condition. Cosmetic condition looks good.

 

E) 2003, Miles 65,000, Asking $15,000, Dealer seller. KBB $15,730, Edmunds $16,188, assuming good condition. Cosmetic condition looks good.

 

F) 2001, Miles 61,500, Asking $16,000. Dealer Seller. KBB $14,110 and Edmunds $13,849, assuming excellent condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. Looks WAY overpriced.

 

G) 2003, 46,000 miles, $17,000, Dealer seller. KBB $19,315 and Edmunds $18,186, assuming excellent condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. Has OnStar system (though could care less about OnStar).

[CNY_Dave]

GEC-

 

Lower miles is better, year is irrelevant in this case, I shy away from the "I buy 'em fix 'em and sell 'em" tribe myself.

 

A "+" next to any for which there are good service records.

 

Don't forget to squeeze the dealer for the 50K/60K service as part of the dealer.

 

 

Dave

[mountainwalker]

GEC-

 

Lower miles is better, year is irrelevant in this case, I shy away from the "I buy 'em fix 'em and sell 'em" tribe myself.

 

A "+" next to any for which there are good service records.

 

Don't forget to squeeze the dealer for the 50K/60K service as part of the dealer.

 

 

Dave

 

Thanks CNY Dave,

 

How are the "I buy 'em fix 'em sell 'em" tribe different from dealers? Just more amateurish?

 

Do you evaluate the service record on the basis of Carfax, current owner's copy of records and/or other?

 

What exactly is the 50K/60K service? Is this only for cars under 50-60K in miles? If the mileage is over 50-60K, is there a service deal you can get?

 

Is there a typical 30-60 guarantee from dealers?

 

Never bought from a dealer before.

[mountainwalker]

Any tips on specific vehicles in the list you'd go for, assuming all other things equal, much appreciated.

 

Also, any tips on buying a used car from a dealer much appreciated. No experience with this. How much to offer under their ask, and what extras (guarantee period, free or low cost service check at a certain point, etc.).

[mountainwalker]

GEC-

 

Lower miles is better, year is irrelevant in this case, I shy away from the "I buy 'em fix 'em and sell 'em" tribe myself.

 

A "+" next to any for which there are good service records.

 

Don't forget to squeeze the dealer for the 50K/60K service as part of the dealer.

 

 

Dave

 

Why is year irrelevant in this case? Because of the quality of the maker/model? Do miles always take precedent over year with VDC 01-05?

[Suzam]

A private sale you buy the car as-is.

 

Dealer cars should offer some sort of warranty, that sould cover any kind of abuse or neglect, including the AWD system for torque bind that might appear soon after purchase. Also dealers tend to change out all the fluids if you ask them to, unless they say it was done (ask for proof). You can work that into the deal.

 

Ask the dealer for a CARFAX.

 

Since you are basically looking at the same body style model, a newer, lower mileage car is desirable.

[CNY_Dave]

If the price is going to be at or close to the KBB, the dealer just has an extra margin of protection. Also, there's a good chance the car was sold new at that dealer and there are dealer records for service done.

 

Within a 3-4 year range, the mileage is simply more important to a used cars condition than the year.

 

Any records you can get are useful.

 

The subies have a 50,000 mile or 60,000 (forget which) mile service interval for certain things, the dealer should be willing to do all the things called out in that service schedule as part of the deal, unless its just been done.

 

I don't think the miles driven have anything to do with the condition of the VDC- until it activates its just a bunch of sensors.

 

Warranties by dealers vary. Might be 60-days/1000 miles.

 

 

My main fear of the buy-fix-sell tribe is that if he got screwed with a lemon, he has no choice but to pass the turd on. A dealer has a little more margin and incentive not to screw someone over. Not much, but a little.

 

I had no incentive to buy from a private party here in CNY because they just didn't sell for less from private parties.

Typically, I just buy from a private party who's been driving the car for years.

 

Dave

[mountainwalker]

See bold * below

 

If the price is going to be at or close to the KBB, the dealer just has an extra margin of protection. Also, there's a good chance the car was sold new at that dealer and there are dealer records for service done.

 

* What if the dealer price is below KBB by $2000, as in G? Is that cause for alarm? How much do you think you could knock off the dealer ask in this case?

 

Within a 3-4 year range, the mileage is simply more important to a used cars condition than the year.

 

Any records you can get are useful.

 

* Have unlimited carfax and I'm asking for all service records from sellers, but dealers are likely to have better records, unless private seller is original owner.

 

The subies have a 50,000 mile or 60,000 (forget which) mile service interval for certain things, the dealer should be willing to do all the things called out in that service schedule as part of the deal, unless its just been done.

 

* If you sell the car to another party before 60,000 say,when the servicing has to be done, does the dealer still need to do it?

 

I don't think the miles driven have anything to do with the condition of the VDC- until it activates its just a bunch of sensors.

 

Warranties by dealers vary. Might be 60-days/1000 miles.

 

* What do the warranties usually cover? Basically can you return the car in that 60 days if you detect a problem?

 

My main fear of the buy-fix-sell tribe is that if he got screwed with a lemon, he has no choice but to pass the turd on. A dealer has a little more margin and incentive not to screw someone over. Not much, but a little.

 

* If private sellers are selling below KBB, and you can get thorough inspection, see carfax and see some service records, are you still uncomfortable?

 

I had no incentive to buy from a private party here in CNY because they just didn't sell for less from private parties.

Typically, I just buy from a private party who's been driving the car for years.

 

Dave

[CNY_Dave]

Not sure how to multi-quote clearly, so in-line below-

 

* What if the dealer price is below KBB by $2000, as in G? Is that cause for alarm? How much do you think you could knock off the dealer ask in this case?

 

It depends on what the prices in the area are like. If prices vary, this isn't a red fleg in all cases. Around here, pricing was very consistent. Just check any 'deals' as thoroughly as anything else.

 

* If you sell the car to another party before 60,000 say,when the servicing has to be done, does the dealer still need to do it?

 

This is not normally a dealer-paid service, its just a little freebie they will often throw in when you're buying a used car from 'em.

 

* What do the warranties usually cover? Basically can you return the car in that 60 days if you detect a problem?

 

Varies wildy. NY state has a lemon law, forget what the terms are.

 

* If private sellers are selling below KBB, and you can get thorough inspection, see carfax and see some service records, are you still uncomfortable?

 

A little below KBB, a grand, maybe even two grand might be in the normal range. Just scrutinize deals better, ask detailed questions, and trust your instincts, not about the car, but about the person.

 

 

 

Dave

[four-fleet-feet]

Another reason prices might be below book: in the SF area, people are getting hammered by their adjustable-rate mortgages and their rent rates! Most people don't know that San Francisco took over from Honolulu as the most costly West-Coast city a long while back. Faced with the rising balloon in their house payments, many aren't buying cars.

 

Those dealers still have expenses, and they have lots of expensive inventory. They paid more for the new cars than the old; most of those trade-ins they got for a steal - if for that much. Any money's better than none.

 

If you're paying cash, you can ask for AND GET just about any service tagged onto your new-to-you used car. Fluids, tire rotations, even a timing belt service (!) have been advertised to bring in customers. In Arizona, they're so desperate for sales the price of new 08 Outbacks with options (NOT stripped), cash price, is under $19k. I'd pay $30k+ for the same car in Seattle. The dealers down here still can't push them. Subarus aren't popular in Arizona, can't you tell?

 

They may be popular in the Bay Area, but people just aren't buying new cars there right now. They can't afford them. So I wouldn't worry about a car being below book if it checks out OK with the mechanics and has a solid (written and complete) maintenance record. A car with detailed dealer-service records is a good bet, since only those who actually HAD money could afford to have a dealer do all the service in the first place. That's the car I'd jump for, if you have to choose between two. Right now, people out here are spending money they HAVE to (like a roof and food, there's always public transit in SF), and sometimes the car goes on the end of the money list.

 

No maintenance records? Don't go there, if you're buying long distance!

[four-fleet-feet]

Which are the best 1-2 values to send for inspection?

 

2001, Miles 82,740, Asking $12,000, Individual seller. KBB $12,755, Edmunds $13,168, assuming excellent condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. Seller claims that car was always dealer serviced.

 

I'd personally go for this one, if you can talk the price down to the 10 range. 12's a little steep for age/mileage. HOWEVER, if the seller can back up the claims of dealer service, in full, including a timing belt/HG check, and ALL of the 60k service list, I'd think about this one even if you can't get a better deal.

 

C) 2001, Miles 60,680, Asking $12,400, Individual seller. KBB is $14,170 Edmunds $13,958 assuming excellent condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. Seller says he bought from previous owner (a son who inherited from father and didn’t need the car). Seller says he buys a few cars/year, cleans them up for resale to make a few bucks. Condition notes - small ding on driver’s side door, tiny paint scratch over rear bumper that was painted over, a little scuffing on outside of driver’s seat.

 

Not if it was free. This seller sounds like a flipper, and you don't want that. 'Inherited' probably means no background receipts. That means you might inherit a few problems you could do without.

 

D) 2003, Miles 74,800, Asking $14,000, Dealer seller. KBB $14,505, Edmunds $16,176, assuming good condition. Cosmetic condition looks good.

 

E) 2003, Miles 65,000, Asking $15,000, Dealer seller. KBB $15,730, Edmunds $16,188, assuming good condition. Cosmetic condition looks good.

 

You could go either, but I think you could do better. If the dealers offer a full 60k service (not just a check) and a warranty, talk the price down and maybe you'll get a deal. I'd pass.

 

G) 2003, 46,000 miles, $17,000, Dealer seller. KBB $19,315 and Edmunds $18,186, assuming excellent condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. Has OnStar system (though could care less about OnStar).

 

I'd think about this one, if I wanted an OBW. Lower miles (higher cost, though). OnStar can actually be a selling point if you need to sell or trade. Remember that the service is not free and you need to factor that cost in. I would be asking some tough questions, though. 5 years old, and only 46k. Why? See if you can find out if the seller/trader is a repeat customer, since some people do trade in their cars every set number of years, whether the car is in good shape or not.

 

If you can't get that info, for this one I'd require a full service (all fluids including the trans, plugs/wires, brake check, HG check, recall pull to see if they were all done, that sort of thing) from the selling dealer as a condition of sale - and a written guarantee that they actually checked the HG and found no problems. Even if they say you can transfer the warranty, I'd get that in writing as well. They're asking a premium price. If they won't talk it down, you deserve to get the service done!

 

Since there is a possibility you could sell the car in the future, you'd get more trade-in or sale value with the 2003, but pay less for the 2001. Up to you, but if you have the cash, think about the newer car, if it checks out. If not, and the receipts are solid and cover all maintenance on the 2001 from the private owner, that's the one I'd go get checked over by the mechanics.

 

Just make sure the 2001 had the HG replaced under warranty, or has been checked within the last 5k miles. You don't want to deal with that after paying that much money, if you don't have to.

 

I'd personally go for B, if it checked out. I'd sock the $5k saved away in the bank and use it for something else. I keep a car until it dies. I don't sell them. I fix them and drive them (and drive them...). I may not have the latest model, but I get where I'm going safely. It's also cheaper to insure the older ones - but check with an agent, in this case that might not be true. If you haven't been insuring a car for a while, any California rate is going to be a stunner.

 

(The cars I skipped? Not worth my time to comment!)

 

Edit: As far as Carfax goes, you cannot take it as the final word. I saw the one for my S-10 the day after it was totaled. It was sooo wrong it was scary. Get one for the cars you choose to have inspected, read it, but realize it is not the be all and end all many think it is. If work is done by a private party, it may not show.

[mountainwalker]

2001, Miles 82,740, Asking $12,000, Individual seller. KBB $12,755, Edmunds $13,168, assuming excellent condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. Seller claims that car was always dealer serviced.

 

I'd personally go for this one, if you can talk the price down to the 10 range. 12's a little steep for age/mileage. HOWEVER, if the seller can back up the claims of dealer service, in full, including a timing belt/HG check, and ALL of the 60k service list, I'd think about this one even if you can't get a better deal.

 

I'd personally go for B, if it checked out. I'd sock the $5k saved away in the bank and use it for something else. I keep a car until it dies. I don't sell them. I fix them and drive them (and drive them...). I may not have the latest model, but I get where I'm going safely. It's also cheaper to insure the older ones - but check with an agent, in this case that might not be true. If you haven't been insuring a car for a while, any California rate is going to be a stunner.

 

Wow that was super helpful. Thanks again.

 

Would you really still go to buy a used 2001 for as much as $10-11K when as you mentioned you might be able to pick up a new 2008 for $19K? What do you think an LL Bean H6 3.0L 2008 would go for in cash from an Arizona or other area dealer that isn't moving them? Note MSRP for this model is $32K.

 

Wouldn't it be hard to get your value selling the older car (2001)? Would it not be easier to hold the value with a 2003?

 

And if you could buy a 2008 at a low enough price, wouldn't it be easy to sell for what you bought it for or a little more? Meaning, why pay $10-11K for a 2001, or $16-17K for a 2003, if you could get a 2008 for 19K?

 

Also, if you could buy a Subaru Outback 2008 loaded for as little as 19K, wouldn't you find buyers in higher-price areas like the East Coast or Seattle taking advantage of the arbitrage and buying them in another area and having them shipped to them?

 

I'm not doubting you about new 2008s for 19K, I'm hopeful you're right! But I'm trying to understand then why go for a 2001 for 10-11K? 19K is so below the E Coast or Seattle price, why not get the new 08 for 19K and then if you had to ship it back to the E Coast?

[mountainwalker]

What are OBW and HG?

 

 

I'd think about this one, if I wanted an OBW.

 

* What's "OBW?"

 

If you can't get that info, for this one I'd require a full service (all fluids including the trans, plugs/wires, brake check, HG check

 

* What's "HG?"

[Oregon_Legacy]

I would always go with a used car that was dealership service so that there is a record of the car's service.

[idosubaru]

What are OBW and HG?

OBW - Outback Wagon

HG - Headgaskets

 

four-fleet-feet is mentioning 4 cylinder EJ25 characteristics, not H6 6 cylinder characteristics. the H6 doesn't have a timing belt, though you could inspect the H6 timing chain. and the H6 doesn't have head gasket issues like the EJ25's. not that you can't check them, but it's highly unlikely you'll find anything.

 

i would be very suspicious of the car being flipped.

 

dealers are actually "flippers" as well. and you'll nearly always get hosed by a dealer, but if the couple thousand doesn't matter than buy away. all they are doing is picking up used cars from an auction and flipping them or selling trade ins. you really get less value...a car with zero previous history usually. though in rare cases it is a trade in and they will provide you a computer print out of the history.

 

single owner cars (with service records particularly) are awesome, period. they're generally worth a premium.

[jamal]

Don't you already have like seven threads about buying a new car? Is there some reason you can't contain everything to one? All the advise you get is spread all over the place and hard to keep track of.

[lostinthe202]

Don't you already have like seven threads about buying a new car? Is there some reason you can't contain everything to one? All the advise you get is spread all over the place and hard to keep track of.

 

 

+1

[mountainwalker]

Don't you already have like seven threads about buying a new car? Is there some reason you can't contain everything to one? All the advise you get is spread all over the place and hard to keep track of.

 

Hi jamal,

 

The questions are SEPARATE questions - a question about best tires to get doesn't belong in the same thread as choosing which edition or year of a vehicle. A question about inspecting or about a particular mechanical problem (head gaskets) doesn't belong in the same thread as buying. And on.

 

I may be new to USMB but I'm not new to online forums and have been a strong contributing member to others for years. Having different posts with specific titles enables those members best able to comment or benefit from those discussions to participate in them.

 

I'm very thankful for the advice I've gotten here, members have been terrific, but there's no merit to your comment at all.

[mountainwalker]

2001, Miles 82,740, Asking $12,000, Individual seller. KBB $12,755, Edmunds $13,168, assuming excellent condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. Seller claims that car was always dealer serviced.

 

I'd personally go for this one, if you can talk the price down to the 10 range. 12's a little steep for age/mileage. HOWEVER, if the seller can back up the claims of dealer service, in full, including a timing belt/HG check, and ALL of the 60k service list, I'd think about this one even if you can't get a better deal.

 

C) 2001, Miles 60,680, Asking $12,400, Individual seller. KBB is $14,170 Edmunds $13,958 assuming excellent condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. Seller says he bought from previous owner (a son who inherited from father and didn’t need the car). Seller says he buys a few cars/year, cleans them up for resale to make a few bucks. Condition notes - small ding on driver’s side door, tiny paint scratch over rear bumper that was painted over, a little scuffing on outside of driver’s seat.

 

Not if it was free. This seller sounds like a flipper, and you don't want that. 'Inherited' probably means no background receipts. That means you might inherit a few problems you could do without.

 

 

The dealer cars as expected have NO history whatsoever. And their answers were very unsatisfactory (what I expected). So for B&C above, would you send both of those cars to inspections with good reputable garages? Would you definitely pass on C because it doesn't have full history, even if it checked out very well in inspection? Note C is priced about the same as B, while B has more than 20,000 extra miles.

 

BTW, I checked with dealers in Arizona - no one will sell you 2008 Subaru Outback 6 cylinder models for even close to 19K cash. Best price offered so far was $28,000 for cash. Not saying you couldn't knock the dealer down a little more, but it's not looking like you could walk away with a $19,000 new H6 car either. Where exactly did you hear this? Don't get me wrong, this is not about disbelieving you - I want to believe you, because I'd like to find the dealer who would do this.

[four-fleet-feet]

Ok, Mountainwalker, here's the problem. Like the poster above, I noted you asked several questions in several different threads. I didn't read all of them, just the ones I thought I could answer. I didn't know you'd settled on an LL Bean edition.

 

You're right, no dealer in Arizona will sell an LL Bean for $19k. (In case you were wondering, I was looking at the latest ad for Avondale Subaru in the Arizona Republic newspaper). Also, I missed the part you wanted an H6. That engine won't be found at any cheap price on the West Coast. As far as the headgasket (HG), the H6 doesn't have the problem as severely (I haven't heard/seen the problem mentioned as much on that car as I've heard it on the 2.5). You can probably forgo worrying about it on the H6 models. As far as the timing belt issue, yes, it's a chain on this model, and you won't need to worry about it at all.

 

The other problem with the cars you mentioned is you didn't mention the trim levels on each used car. Were these fully-equipped models, or just the base car? If they're in California, they all might have California emissions, but you should still ask. Any car over 1 year old can be registered in California, but the special CA state emission package can play merry hell with your gas economy and parts life.

 

Why not buy Arizona cars and ship them to Washington? The state tax is assessed upon arrival in Washington (a pretty steep 9% or higher state average, depending on county of licensing), and the cost of shipping the car is enormous. Arizona has specific transport-title rules which make it a real hassle to transfer a new car title out of state, as I found out. Also, Arizona cars do NOT come with option packages any Northwesterner considers necessary. Finally, most cars sold in Arizona do not have the CA emissions package, which is necessary to register a car in CA for the first year of ownership (well, as of 2006 it still was).

 

Another option you could consider, if this is seeming to be a real hassle, is a short-term closed-end lease. If you don't stay in California, you could end the lease and walk away, perhaps for the same dollar amount as a long-term rental. If you've never done this, I would ask a professional about this and consider this as another option. Leasing a Subaru might suit you. You'd have lower payments for a new car, and no long-term obligation to keep it.

 

I again stress the necessity of considering what the cost of your insurance will be. California insurance is quite costly, and if you do not currently insure a vehicle you will be in a much higher premium bracket. Check into this before you decide on a specific year or model of Subaru. Changing one year (or one trim level) might save you a bunch of money.

 

Oh, yes. Car C? Why don't I like it? If you were buying it from the son I'd look at it. But you're not. You're buying it from a man who bought it from the inheriting son, whom you already know buys/fixes/then sells cars. Ixnay! I've NEVER had a good experience with that kind of thing. If you're not buying it from the family member stay away, stay very far away.

 

It's not like you could ask the son if his father had regular maintenance done, or took care of his car. He's not involved in the sale, and I'd be very surprised if the current seller gave you the son's info even if you begged. I'd also be surprised if any service records are still in the car. You NEED those records, if you're buying a used car. One reason I'm kinda leery of used cars at dealers is that they seldom will give you that info. If it's in the car when they get it, it goes out. It's a privacy issue.

 

Now that I know you want an LL Bean, and the H6, I presume all the cars you listed are that model and engine. I'd still go for car B, even if it's a 2001 and some people don't like that year. Just try to get a better deal, unless you can sit down and go through all the receipts. If there's a solid track of quarterly oil changes, dealer recommended maintenance, and little things fixed timely and properly, or better yet, minor warranty work, I'd really think about taking it to a mechanic and getting it looked at.

 

I'll stand by my recommendation to take an older car with a solid, written maintenance record over a newer one with no provenance from a dealer lot any day of the year!

[lostinthe202]

I again stress the necessity of considering what the cost of your insurance will be. California insurance is quite costly, and if you do not currently insure a vehicle you will be in a much higher premium bracket.

 

Don't forget that California has the highest gas prices in the nation because of their tax structure and a 2001 H6 (maybe all years of H6, I'm not sure) is rated for Premium gas which is going for about $4.19 a gallon at best

 

http://www.sanfrangasprices.com/index.aspx?fuel=C

 

I'll stand by my recommendation to take an older car with a solid, written maintenance record over a newer one with no provenance from a dealer lot any day of the year!

 

I second this, I bought my '96 outback with 120k for $3000 about 2 years ago. It now has 178k (as you can tell I drive A LOT!) and I've done nothing but regular maintenance and this is not an unusual occurrence.

[CNY_Dave]

Don't forget that California has the highest gas prices in the nation because of their tax structure and a 2001 H6 (maybe all years of H6, I'm not sure) is rated for Premium gas which is going for about $4.19 a gallon at best

 

http://www.sanfrangasprices.com/index.aspx?fuel=C

 

 

 

I second this, I bought my '96 outback with 120k for $3000 about 2 years ago. It now has 178k (as you can tell I drive A LOT!) and I've done nothing but regular maintenance and this is not an unusual occurrence.

 

 

For a very small hit in mileage and power, the H6 is happy with 87.

 

 

Dave

[mountainwalker]

 

I'll stand by my recommendation to take an older car with a solid, written maintenance record over a newer one with no provenance from a dealer lot any day of the year!

 

I would have to agree with you. Sound advice, especially when I remember how meticulously I maintained my Volvo and how carefully my father maintained our cars, and how much longer they lasted than cars belonging to the vast majority of neighbors and friends. Lesson learned.

 

I have a cousin who is a former EE who built a very successful Detroit-based company which refurbs and distributes parts for high-end foreign cars, and is a lifelong car nut, and this also is his most important piece of advice for buying a used car.

[mountainwalker]

I found 2 similar H6 Outback Wagons to evaluate against that meet the criteria of good service records and single owner or 2 owner with second owner purchasing the car after one year and maintaining it well ever since. All 3 cars coincidently have about the same mileage. Below here’s again, and I’ve added H) which is a 2003 Outback VDC H6 with 83,600 miles, and for comparison I), a non-VDC Outback H6 with 84,500 miles. H) is a 2003 VDC with the same miles as the 2001. Which do you prefer? Do you have any concerns about H) being driven in a West Coast winter snow area for the last 3 years?

 

2001 Outback VDC H6, Miles 82,740, Asking $12,000, Individual seller. KBB Fair $10,775, Good $11,835, Excellent $12,725. Cosmetic condition looks good. Seller claims that car was always dealer serviced and says he has all maintenance and repair records. Seller purchased car from first owner who owned it for a year and sold after moving cross country – current owner has owned it ever since. Tires are near new Michelin MXV4's.

 

H) 2003 Outback VDC, Miles 83, 600. Asking $13,600. Individual seller. KBB Fair $12,400, Good $13,745 and Excellent $14,705. Cosmetic condition looks good. Seller purchased car from first owner who owned it for one year before moving. Car spent first year in dry climate of San Diego, and since then in a West Coast mountain area that gets winter snow. Comes with WRX wheels and studded snow tires (which we don’t need). Seller claims they had a major tune up done at the dealer (and replaced the stereo at that time which is a slight bummer if it was the McIntosh stereo), and says the car is still under warranty. Will know more details soon.

 

I) 2003 Subaru Outback H6 Wagon. Miles 85,000. KBB Fair $9,340, Good $10,430, Excellent $11,300. Cosmetic condition looks good. Seller has always owned car and claims careful maintenance. Vehicle has new Michelin tires. Does NOT have VDC and options that come with it.

 

Have already lined up good independent garages near these that can inspect any one I'd like to send in.

[CNY_Dave]

I found 2 similar H6 Outback Wagons to evaluate against that meet the criteria of good service records and single owner or 2 owner with second owner purchasing the car after one year and maintaining it well ever since. All 3 cars coincidently have about the same mileage. Below here’s again, and I’ve added H) which is a 2003 Outback VDC H6 with 83,600 miles, and for comparison I), a non-VDC Outback H6 with 84,500 miles. H) is a 2003 VDC with the same miles as the 2001. Which do you prefer? Do you have any concerns about H) being driven in a West Coast winter snow area for the last 3 years?

 

2001 Outback VDC H6, Miles 82,740, Asking $12,000, Individual seller. KBB Fair $10,775, Good $11,835, Excellent $12,725. Cosmetic condition looks good. Seller claims that car was always dealer serviced and says he has all maintenance and repair records. Seller purchased car from first owner who owned it for a year and sold after moving cross country – current owner has owned it ever since. Tires are near new Michelin MXV4's.

 

H) 2003 Outback VDC, Miles 83, 600. Asking $13,600. Individual seller. KBB Fair $12,400, Good $13,745 and Excellent $14,705. Cosmetic condition looks good. Seller purchased car from first owner who owned it for one year before moving. Car spent first year in dry climate of San Diego, and since then in a West Coast mountain area that gets winter snow. Comes with WRX wheels and studded snow tires (which we don’t need). Seller claims they had a major tune up done at the dealer (and replaced the stereo at that time which is a slight bummer if it was the McIntosh stereo), and says the car is still under warranty. Will know more details soon.

 

I) 2003 Subaru Outback H6 Wagon. Miles 85,000. KBB Fair $9,340, Good $10,430, Excellent $11,300. Cosmetic condition looks good. Seller has always owned car and claims careful maintenance. Vehicle has new Michelin tires. Does NOT have VDC and options that come with it.

 

Have already lined up good independent garages near these that can inspect any one I'd like to send in.

 

 

 

If you were nearby I'd say H so I could buy your snows.

 

Seems to be little difference between B and H. When all things are "equal", maintenance records trump, especially if all the interval-maint has been done with the records to prove it.

 

Dave