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Hey!

The boob was running fine last night. The tank got down to 'E', and I put about 3 gallons of fuel into the tank. I drove away from the g station and it ran fine. I ran around and did a couple of errands this morning and the car was still running fine. I parked and ran into the grocery store for about 5 minutes, came back out, and started the car up. I started to back out of my space and the car kept running, but when I gave it gas....nothing. I tried to pull forward....gave it gas....nothing. It rattled and shook. It died. I started it. I gave it gas, but nothing. It died. It was sputtering and spitting terribly bad, and the car was rattling and shaking. I was able to get my car backed into the space behind me. I started it up again and tried to give it some gas....nothing just rattling and shaking. Then the car wouldn't even start. It tries to turn-over, but there isn't any fuel getting through.

Help?

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Yes.....I do have fuel :)

No, I do not hear the fuel pump when I turn the key. However, power IS getting to the pump.

 

Running a tank down that low regularly is not good for the pump. The gasoline helps cool the pump, and you can cut the pump life by doing it.

 

 

Especially an older pump.

 

nipper

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  • 2 years later...

I have had a couple of 90-94 legacies, and never had a problem with the fuel pump. Now I have a 96 Outback, and the pump went (this is the second pump I have seen go out in a Subaru, the other was a 97 Leg sedan). I must say that the level of quality in the 95-99 subarus was just not up to the standards of the 90-94 (or the later ones, even). They tried way too hard to cut costs during those years. The Fuel pump from a 90 Legacy will run an Outback just fine, by the way (I had to pull the one from my 92 for a bit while i searched for a replacement I could afford), but the 00 and later (guessing as to the year they went back to a plug instead of open leads) is probably a better bet in as far as fuel flow rates are concerned. You can also get an aftermarkey unit that is rated much higher than the OEM unit for about $100. Often tuners will pull the nearly brand new OEM pump out of thier late model WRX's to put one of these more powerful units in, and then they sell of thier old ones for cheap. That is how I got mine, actually. Look over at NASIOC to see if you can find one that way.

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So I'm about to go out and test.. and searching here I have a question.. I know people say it's rare for the fuel pump relay to go bad but I still want to test everything..

 

The green connections under the dash if I connect them the fuel relay should click on and off like every 1/2 seconds right? I just want to make sure I have 12V to the pump.

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just went outside and connected the green connections.. I hear the fuel relay working and SB1 and SB2 under the hood are good..

 

I tested the pump connections and I see a quick battery voltage every time the fuel relay turns on but I hear no pump in the tank.

 

I'm looking at rock auto here now for pumps.. a lot of them seem to have one with two wires (black & red) and one with a plug in connection.. while I haven't pulled my assembly yet does anyone know off hand what type it is?

 

 

Would this work? I think it means the whole pump plus strainer? Speaking of that is it necessary to replace the strainer anyways?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-SUBARU-LEGACY-FUEL-PUMP-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ade56a311QQitemZ390277276433QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Edited by 1-3-2-4
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Some pumps are very quiet. Put your hand on the fuel pump cover and see if you can feel a vibration. The mount is the side with all the wires.

 

Since you say it starts, just wont respond, I am discounting the fuel pump (they are fairly robust and make noise bfore they fail). My money is on the fuel pressure regulator is shot, as that controls the fuel pressure vs engine load.

Edited by nipper
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Some pumps are very quiet. Put your hand on the fuel pump cover and see if you can feel a vibration. The mount is the side with all the wires.

 

Since you say it starts, just wont respond, I am discounting the fuel pump (they are fairly robust and make noise bfore they fail). My money is on the fuel pressure regulator is shot, as that controls the fuel pressure vs engine load.

 

I don't know if you saw (I did not mean to post to this tread) I cranked with the fuel line disconnected and I got no flow at all.

 

I just took the whole assembly out of the car.

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I don't know if you saw (I did not mean to post to this tread) I cranked with the fuel line disconnected and I got no flow at all.

 

I just took the whole assembly out of the car.

 

OK. Watch the shipping on Rock auto, as it can be more then the part. Look at other sources, as it can be a faiirly generic part.

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OK. Watch the shipping on Rock auto, as it can be more then the part. Look at other sources, as it can be a faiirly generic part.

 

yep.. good thing I got curious and took the whole assembly out it is a very generic part.. and for the record I just hooked the pump to 12v here in the house and still wont run..

 

I guess that solves that :burnout:

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yep.. good thing I got curious and took the whole assembly out it is a very generic part.. and for the record I just hooked the pump to 12v here in the house and still wont run..

 

I guess that solves that :burnout:

 

 

Basically the fuel pumps are made by the same that make it for OE, just instead of subaru specific, they may be also for many cars.

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Basically the fuel pumps are made by the same that make it for OE, just instead of subaru specific, they may be also for many cars.

 

 

Ok about that you know that rubber part that sits under the pump the one I'm looking to get does not have that but it should fit the new pump right with no issues?

 

*edit I might just get this one instead

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-PUMP-1994-1995-SUBARU-Legacy-BRAND-NEW-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem230b194d97QQitemZ150510062999QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

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As a side note about the fuel pump circuit. Some models control the fuel pump operation by running the return side of the power to the ECU which then makes the ground connection inside it. In this case though the return just ties to the chassis. A new pump should get you going again.

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I wonder why most of the replacement pumps have a threaded screw mount for the connection when the stock had a thru hole mount with a square nut.

 

I'd have to bend my wires upwards so I can at least slide the protective cover over the + wire.

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I wonder why most of the replacement pumps have a threaded screw mount for the connection when the stock had a thru hole mount with a square nut.

 

I'd have to bend my wires upwards so I can at least slide the protective cover over the + wire.

 

Well that does cost 200.00 more to get that :) It is how they make it a universal fit over many different cars.

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haha I guess you're right.. I just ran into a snag.. for some reason the positive post on the new pump is smaller and fits the stock screw nut but the Neg post is larger and wont fit the negative cable.

 

I don't think I have a wire nut for that here in my spare parts bin

 

but I went out and advance auto had a M5 nut that fit just right.

 

So the pump is in now :)

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