RdNkBrt Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 lookin at an 85 brat. doesnt have a/s... (did any of them come with air? OR is thie probably the base model since it's sans A/C??) Anyays, it has the thing that says "equiped for optional a/c"... sooooo how much would it cost to get that going? Is it easy or rather tough?? please let me know, it will have a huge bearing as to if i buy this sucker or not... thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 uh, forget i said that...suffice it to say i lose track of what page i'm on sometimes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subieman Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 I have a schematic that shows step by step how to install the A/C in the EA81. Might take me a few days to find it, as soon as I do I'll post it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RdNkBrt Posted May 19, 2008 Author Share Posted May 19, 2008 Thank you very much... anyone know how long it will take to put in? OR exactly what it requires? Do i have to move to a bunch of stuff around, or is it sort of plug and play?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 It's not simple if that's what you want. First you'll have to find all the components. There's quite a bit of wiring and relays that go with it, as well as all the lines, the alternator/AC pump bracketry, evap core, condensor core (with houseing, and associated components under the dash), drier (new), pressure switches, ect. You'll have to replace all the hoses with R134 compatible, and all the o-rings as well. Then you pull a vacuum for several hours on the system, charge it with nitrogen and check for leaks. Once all that is done you can charge it with refrigerant and go to town. Of course unless you have access to a vacuum pump, nitrogen, manifold and gauge set, and all the neccesary tools to perform work on MVAC systems you are in for a large and tasty bill from someone that does. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Of course unless you have access to a vacuum pump, nitrogen, manifold and gauge set, and all the neccesary tools to perform work on MVAC systems you are in for a large and tasty bill from someone that does. GD I concur with all of the above. One addition to the component list.... A throttle pullback device for increasing the engine RPMS when the compressor is engaged. Plus one extra question because my current setup is R12.... Will the compressor be able run the system as efficiently on R134 or do I need to invest in a new one??? Mine is old to start so I guess that's a no brainer. manifold and gauge set - cheap investment nitrogen - cheap to rent a canister Rotary Vane Deep Vacuum pump - free rental from Autozone. It is indeed possible but I would also read up on how refrigerant systems work to gain a better knowledge for installation and troubleshooting. I recommend this (bible!) http://www.amazon.com/Refrigeration-Air-Conditioning-Technology-5E/dp/1401837654/ref=pd_sim_b_title_2 or simply do your research on the net - find a source of information that is easy to digest - A/C isn't rocket science but it does involve calculations and the understanding of several principles that can be intimidating if you are reading a discourse from a physics PHD.... For the price of a MasterCool electronic refrigerant sniffer, I would also recommend buying one of these to aid in any A/C leak detection. This will pay for itself in one or two situations that could lead you to spending $$$$$ at a shop that wants to install a new compressor when all you have is a leaking rubber tube. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Will the compressor be able run the system as efficiently on R134 or do I need to invest in a new one??? Mine is old to start so I guess that's a no brainer. Compressor should be fine, but I would replace the shaft seal - that's usually what fails on them. Problem is that removing and re-installing the clutch will almost always kill the bearings shortly after so doing a rebuild on it or getting a new one is adviseable. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hondasucks Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 You'll have to replace all the hoses with R134 compatible, and all the o-rings as well. O rings, yes, but the oil that coats the inside of the hoses will seal the pores in the hoses, preventing the refrigerant from seeping out. (Even when it does seep out, it's to the tune of about a half a pound a year ($2.50) so it's not really worth it. Then you pull a vacuum for several hours on the system, charge it with nitrogen and check for leaks. Once all that is done you can charge it with refrigerant and go to town. GD You don't have to charge the system with nitrogen either, number one, when you pull a vacuum, if it will pull to 30 inches of vacuum, you don't have any leaks, all but the most miniscule leak and it won't pull to 30 inches, nor will it hold 30 inches for very long. Number two, if it won't pull to 30 inches, you pressurize the system with about a half a pound of refrigerant and use a sniffer. Thirdly, you don't pull a vacuum for several hours, you only need to pull a vacuum for 20 minutes or so, and then close the valve to the pump and watch the gauges to make sure that the system holds vacuum. Putting the system together is not difficult, it's just time consuming. "Equipped for installation of optional AC" means that the wiring is there, more or less. There are rubber plugs in the firewall to run the lines, but none of the AC components are there. You'll need all the lines, compressor, bracket, condensor, and evaporator. Buy a new receiver/dryer from the dealer, they are not that expensive ($75), buy a set of R134a compatible O rings, and put the system together,along with a set of R134a retrofit fittings. Once it's all together, then take it to the Subaru dealer and have them evacuate and charge the system. Should only cost ~$160 or so, well worth it to have the job done right. If that's too much jingle, and you feel confident in your mechanical abilities, you can evacuate it and charge it yourself, but the price of getting it done at the dealership is probably about the same as buying a set of manifold gauges and such (They are the best way since they let you see what is happening on both sides of the system, and a good set will run about $120-$150). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 You don't have to charge the system with nitrogen either No, but it is more environmentally friendly. I recently troubleshot a problem with a friends A/C whose rubber hose had a pin hole leak (not sure how). In this case, the system would hold a vacuum but not the pressure - because the rubber is being sealled by the vacuum. Good old fashioned water spray on the pieces found the leak. I'm sure the average joe-bloe doesn't own an evac system so I'm sure that 1/2 pound of R134 is going into the atmos once the leak is found :-p Of course, the cost or renting the nitrogen and having the space to keep the canister may outway the "environmental concerns" I have two cars and 4 HVAC systems in my house/appt so I can justify having a canister - keeping the R22 and R134 company in the garage... Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Most of the AC systems in these older Subarus were installed by the dealership. If they could do it so can you. They had a manual and the parts in front of them and followed the directions. As far as all this other stuff about vacuum and nitrogen, don't bother with that. Replace the o-rings as you install the system, use a remanufactured compressor, new drier, then bring it to a shop to charge it up. They have all the tools needed to do the job. To check for leaks, fix the leaks, and charge/oil the system. One more thing to consider, have you ever driven an older Subaru with the AC on? SLOW That little compressor takes a lot of power from that little engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 One more thing to consider, have you ever driven an older Subaru with the AC on? SLOW That little compressor takes a lot of power from that little engine. I had a '86 Brat equipped with AC and he's right. Flip the switch and the car was in slow-mode. However, you dont notice it when your stuck in traffic (which is when you really NEED the A/C) and if your on the freeway or cruising, you always got the T-Top's for A/C -Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Here ya go, problem solved. I have considered taking my t-tops out and having them tinted darker to try and combat the summer heat months. Has anyone else ever gave this any consideration? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backwoodsboy Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 I have considered taking my t-tops out and having them tinted darker to try and combat the summer heat months. Has anyone else ever gave this any consideration? I wasnt really able to offer any insight on the A/C question, but since you mention the t-tops.... I took a cheap silver-y windshield sun deflector, and cut it in half. Then took each piece and trimmed and clear taped them inside (with the silver side up) Keeps the ol brat MUCH cooler! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Here ya go, problem solved. I have considered taking my t-tops out and having them tinted darker to try and combat the summer heat months. Has anyone else ever gave this any consideration? My brat came with some foam inserts crafted niftily from a template of the space they need to occupy. They are white on the exterior and black on the interior - they fit well - just need a better hook/unhook solution plus some black tape around the edge - bits of foam spit out everywhere when I take them off :-\ As for the Jeep A/C... That'd work well if you carry around a 6500W Craftsman generator in the bed of your Brat Of course, it'd also be able to power the amplified speaker system you'd need to drown out the Briggs & Stratton along with a sh¡t load of glade to overpower the gas vapours Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted May 21, 2008 Share Posted May 21, 2008 Samneric, You also would have to admit that the Brat would be a dairy cooler going down the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted May 21, 2008 Share Posted May 21, 2008 Samneric, You also would have to admit that the Brat would be a dairy cooler going down the road. Sell choc-ices and popcicles to the kids for that additional income boost Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cole098 Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 On My old Brat, I would turn the ac on when only on the flat, If I needed to climb a hill off went the ac. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcrae0104 Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 Re: adding a/c-- It's not simple if that's what you want... you are in for a large and tasty bill... Umm... How large and tasty? $1,000-1,500? I am also considering doing this to a non-A/C Brat I want to buy. If it's that much, I'm thinking it's not worth doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'84 Flat-Four Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 I feel your pain! I am in the same boat, my 84 GL had its a/c ripped out (incl. heater:confused:)... Due to $$$, I am contemplating aftermarket units (under-dash kits). a/c is my current goal going into the summer... Here's a good thread with links... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=89869&highlight=conditioner $500-700 average, so it seems, depending on the vendor... but once you find a unit you like, just type it into google-shopping and see who carries it for less... But i would imagine the testing would be the same once all rigged up... If you do decide to do this... keep us updated... Best of luck! Btw, anyone have an aftermarket under-dash unit? if so, your thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrfan Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 (edited) Retrofitting ac is a pain. I also doubt there is much room in a brat for a hang on unit. As far as evacuating the system taking hours or 20 minutes remember this. Pulling a vacuum boils moisture out of the system which you probably won't do in 20 minutes. Yes boys and girls water will boil at room tempreature in a vacuum. Moisture is a big enemy of any ac system. Also pulling a vacuum and seing if the system holds that vacuum is no guarantee it won't leak once pressurized with refrigerant. The forum of this site is a wealth of info on automotive ac. http://www.aircondition.com/ Edited March 31, 2009 by jrfan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 A few bits of info: I have a rotary compressor removed from a window air conditioner. I attached 1/4" flare fittings to the input & output so it is compatable with the standard A/C meter / manifold hoses. I have used it to recover refrigerant, and to pull a vacuume on a system. It will boil water at room temperature. It can only be run for 10-20 minutes as a vacuume pump when pulling a hard vacuume, as there is no cooling. So I cycle it. NAPA sells the dye that helps find leaks. My 86 3AT 4x4 wagon had a relay in the A/C control system that dropped the compressor when you hit the gas. I have moved this relay from car to car as the bodies have rotted away... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrfan Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Nothing wrong with that. My vacuum pump is homemade as well from a compressor out of a mid 70's GE fridge, works great. I used Swagelock fittings. Don't forget to add oil every use and I usually have a fan blowing on it to help keep it cool during use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'84 Flat-Four Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Love it! Necessity is the mother of invention! I give you both props for your innovative thinking! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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