Dickensheets Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 97 OBW 130,000 miles, 2.5 DOHC So far I think I need: head gaskets intake manifold gasket cam/crank seals What about the rear main seal/seperator thingy? What did I forget? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 Possible valve cover gaskets and rubber grommets. Assembly lube. Ultra grey. I usually just reseal the baffle plate. Exhaust gaskets. Spark plugs. I'm sure others will add to the list. Decent torque wrench is needed. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickensheets Posted May 22, 2008 Author Share Posted May 22, 2008 The baffle plate is the rear seal? Reseal with ultra grey? Is this the part some say can be plastic or metal? Thanks Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 Baffle plate is NOT the rear seal. The rear seal is around the crankshaft. The baffle plate/oil seperator for lack of a better description looks like the state of Florida and is on the passenger side of the engine. You can't see either of these things until the engine is seperated from the trans. Some folks buy a new metal baffle plate. I usually clean the surfaces and run a bead of ultra-grey and reseal them. BTW depending on last maintenance a Timing Belt, Idler's, water pump? You'll be pulling the TB off anyways. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 Screws on the oil pump cover - check/tighten. Search around here there are some good procedures and links. Here is a link that I found helpful: http://home.comcast.net/~skipnospam/Head_gasket_replacement.html There are also excellent end wrench articles and threads here. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickensheets Posted May 22, 2008 Author Share Posted May 22, 2008 Thanks dave, yeah I did the belt and water pump 20k miles ago so those should be ok. Thanks for the list of items. I'm just about ready to yank the motor, need to read up on the technique on that. I have an ALLDATA subscription to assist. I'm pretty sure i'll be back with more questions as I proceed. This is my first motor pull. I'm kind of anxious/excited. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 Lots of good folks to help you along - they helped me along and still do when I have an issue. A 14mm flex socket is handy for that lower drivers side bolt. Bungies to hold AC compressor and PS pump. The flexplate bolts are probably my least favorite part - don't forget to undo them. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickensheets Posted May 22, 2008 Author Share Posted May 22, 2008 Lots of good folks to help you along - they helped me along and still do when I have an issue. A 14mm flex socket is handy for that lower drivers side bolt. Bungies to hold AC compressor and PS pump. The flexplate bolts are probably my least favorite part - don't forget to undo them. Dave Well I already disconnected the AC and PS pumps. I know I didn't have to but I want to keep them bolted up and yank them with the motor. Just seems easier in my pea sized noob brain. BTW i haven't read about the flex plate bolts yet. How many and how to access them? Is this where a flex socket extension is handy? Thanks for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 The rear main seal along with the front crank seal. Reseal the oil pan if leaking and replace both gaskets inside. I use the black sealant not the grey on everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickensheets Posted May 22, 2008 Author Share Posted May 22, 2008 The rear main seal along with the front crank seal. Reseal the oil pan if leaking and replace both gaskets inside. I use the black sealant not the grey on everything. Both gaskets on inside of what? I plan on resealing the pan because it's nasty but where are the seals you speak of. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 There are 2 rubber o-rings. One in the pick up pipe you will need to remove it to get to that ring The other is in the conner of inside of the pan. If you reseal the oil pump that has a small o-ring as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickensheets Posted May 22, 2008 Author Share Posted May 22, 2008 ok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOthis Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 at that mileage..you might want to go ahead and put in a thermostat and replace the upper and lower rad. hoses.....(i know my drivers side cam seal was leaking all over my lower rad. hose and it was swelled up like a sausage).... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaru360 Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 Keep all the lifters in order. Tip the engine up on the side you are working on so they dont all fall out when you take the cams out. I would not do the front and rear crank seals if they don't leak. If you screw it up and they leak you'll be pulling it apart again to replace them again. It's uncommon for them to leak. If the cam seals are black replace them, if they are brown they are the new style, if the new style don't leak you can usually reuse them. Oil pans don't usually leak, oil seperator plates almost always leak. Valve cover gaskets can be reused if they weren't leaking, but be sure to but a dab of silicone at the joints of the front cam caps surface and the corners and the at half moon pieces in the back. Be sure to get the intake bolts good and tight it's easy to get a vacum leak especially with new gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickensheets Posted May 24, 2008 Author Share Posted May 24, 2008 Keep all the lifters in order. Tip the engine up on the side you are working on so they dont all fall out when you take the cams out. I would not do the front and rear crank seals if they don't leak. If you screw it up and they leak you'll be pulling it apart again to replace them again. It's uncommon for them to leak. If the cam seals are black replace them, if they are brown they are the new style, if the new style don't leak you can usually reuse them. Oil pans don't usually leak, oil seperator plates almost always leak. Valve cover gaskets can be reused if they weren't leaking, but be sure to but a dab of silicone at the joints of the front cam caps surface and the corners and the at half moon pieces in the back. Be sure to get the intake bolts good and tight it's easy to get a vacum leak especially with new gaskets. ok so when i pull the head off, have that side facing up. The cams are held in place by the caps to the head correct? but the lifters would fall out if I turned the motor facing down? as long as I keep it stable gravity will hold the lifters in place. is that right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaru360 Posted May 24, 2008 Share Posted May 24, 2008 ok so when i pull the head off, have that side facing up. The cams are held in place by the caps to the head correct? but the lifters would fall out if I turned the motor facing down? as long as I keep it stable gravity will hold the lifters in place. is that right. Right just have the side of the engine tilted at least slightly up so all the lifters don't just fall out. With the side you are working on tipped up a little gravity will hold the lifters in. The cams are held in by the cam caps bolted to the heads. You want to keep the lifters in order to avoid messing with valve adjustment, plus they need to stay on the same cam lobe they are worn too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now