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Brat Wheel Bearing 1 or 2?


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See on the website where it says "inner or outer" ?

 

That means = 2 per side

 

Also, not to nitpick, but these bearings are press or "drift" in. Theyre not tapered.

 

 

EDIT: Theres also a real nice writeup on here somewhere (with good pics) if youre tackling this as a weekend project :banana:

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See on the website where it says "inner or outer" ?

 

That means = 2 per side

 

Also, not to nitpick, but these bearings are press or "drift" in. Theyre not tapered.

 

There's a shoulder that keeps them separated and a spacer that goes in there too... learned that the hard way when a "professional" tried pressing them out with a gazillion pounds of pressure... when they didn't move, he heated them til he warped my hub. You remove the old ones from the center out.

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Bearings are pretty simple though time consuming.. Once the knuckle is out it takes about 15-20minutes per knuckle. I use a piece of threaded iron pipe to tap them in.. and finish make sure they are seated with a piece of brass rod and a hammer.

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Rather than pounding the bearings in, it's better to draw them in with a large peice of all-thread, some nuts, a section of iron pipe and some washers.

 

Pounding on the races is bad - if you have to - do it evenly using a proper sized driver or section of pipe with a cap on the hammer end.

 

The reccomended procedure is to use a press - but even then only a hand operated arbor press is all that's required. The fit is not all that tight. Heating the knuckle and putting the bearings on ice will make them go in very easily actually.

 

Overall the job is quite easy - but it's also easy to screw up the bearings and have them not last very long.

 

As mentioned replace the seals and DO NOT put too much grease inside the knuckle. In fact you should just order sealed bearings. If it's a 6207, then order a 6207-2RS for sealed, or a 6207-ZZ for sheilded. Sealed and sheilded will come pre-greased and offer another layer of protection over open bearings.

 

And just go to a bearing house - ordering from an auto parts store has no advantages when it comes to bearings.

 

GD

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I bought two bearings. Plan to have them replaced, MWE axle installed, balance rotate and front end alignment tomorrow. Thanks for the info guys.

 

When I seen the part number tonight I was quite shocked. I work for a larger Schaeffler Group warehouse and see a ton of these bearings each night. Just about all of them are made in Korea.

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The ones I purchased were made in Japan.

 

Customers who order parts made in Korea are real particular about them. Many require a little label about the size of a green bean with "Made in Korea" written on it. Of course the German made equivalent is a good chunk of change more.

 

I work for INA www.ina.com and our sister company operates next to us, it won't let me spell out the name of it but its a real bearing company. www.colinx.com and look for the red lettering.

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I bought two bearings. Plan to have them replaced, MWE axle installed, balance rotate and front end alignment tomorrow. Thanks for the info guys.

 

When I seen the part number tonight I was quite shocked. I work for a larger Schaeffler Group warehouse and see a ton of these bearings each night. Just about all of them are made in Korea.

 

The bearings are used in a lot more than Subarus. I've seen them listed for snowmobiles and lawn mowers!

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LMAO....i don't think theres much left in harley's that is actually manufactured in america anymore

 

I'd love to see a parts sheet that shows the country of origin of all the parts on a Harley. So the next time some instant biker tries to give me crap about my Yamaha, I can just show him the list.

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I'd love to see a parts sheet that shows the country of origin of all the parts on a Harley. So the next time some instant biker tries to give me crap about my Yamaha, I can just show him the list.

 

Well the bearings that we send to them are made in: Germany, Korea, Taiwan, India, Slovakia, and a few I believe from France and Japan.

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