84 GL Hesitation UPDATE Still need HELP!

[hiltz2o]

 

Ok guys thanks for all your help so far.

 

This is an update of my problem.

 

I have currently changed both fuel filters, air filter, PCV valve, spark plug wires, distributer cap + rotor and the plugs look OK. I have changed all the vacuum lines that look terrible - I didn;t change the T connectors and I don't really want to buy another 15+ feet of vacuum line to do the rest if they don't look cracked.

 

I have checked the engine code to the best of my ability I think it is code 14. According to the HAYNES computer control book, this Subaru code is "Duty Solenoid or Circuit (Fuel Control)"

 

I have no idea what this code means.

 

When driving the car it continues to have the hesitation when first taking off. It runs the worst at speeds from 35-55 mph. I brought it on the highway and brought it up to 80 MPH. It seemed to run great at the high speeds - no missing or surging that I could tell for the short time I had it that fast.

 

The idle is still rough, sometimes stalls, also sometimes stalls when taking off if you dont pump the pedal.

 

I checked the carb, it looks pretty worn out. I have ordered a rebuild kit and I'm wondering if that will solve the problem if it is the accelerator pump. Also does anyone know if the intake manifold gaskets are prone to going bad? I noticed some oil on the spark plug wire where it plugs into the coil. It looks like the coil could be leaking some oil.

 

The strangest thing is that this car seemed to be running pretty much normal a few days before I put it on the road. I could drive it all around and it didn't seem to have these kinds of problems then! Very frustrating! It almost seems like all this stuff has just made it worse but its probably just my frustration. If you can help THANK YOU:burnout:

[GeneralDisorder]

  hiltz2o said:

I have currently changed both fuel filters, air filter, PCV valve, spark plug wires, distributer cap + rotor and the plugs look OK. I have changed all the vacuum lines that look terrible - I didn;t change the T connectors and I don't really want to buy another 15+ feet of vacuum line to do the rest if they don't look cracked.

 

No - that's probably not your problem. It's carb and carb tuning related. Perhaps with a dash of ignition timing thrown in.

 

  hiltz2o said:

I have checked the engine code to the best of my ability I think it is code 14. According to the HAYNES computer control book, this Subaru code is "Duty Solenoid or Circuit (Fuel Control)"

 

I have no idea what this code means.

 

The Haynes is wrong - that's an "ignition pulse" code. It's a code specific to the model - indicating you have an automatic transmission, an analog gauge cluster, and a Hitachi carb (feedback obviously). Beyond that, diagnosing it requires about 20 pages of troubleshooting diagrams from the FSM. It could be any number of things - probably a corroded connector somewhere, or a bad splice in the harness.

 

Truely, without a factory service manual, your options are limited - either rip it off an install a non-feedback Hitachi (or rejet your's to non-feedback spec), or rip it off and install a Weber. You'll have no end of trouble with the feedback, and as long as it's throwing a code like that you'll get extremely poor mileage as it can't properly control the air metering ports on that carb. It will default to VERY rich. 16 to 20 MPG if you are lucky.

 

  hiltz2o said:

When driving the car it continues to have the hesitation when first taking off. It runs the worst at speeds from 35-55 mph. I brought it on the highway and brought it up to 80 MPH. It seemed to run great at the high speeds - no missing or surging that I could tell for the short time I had it that fast.

 

That's typical of a worn/mis-tuned carb. Also the distributor vac advance may be bad, or the timing may be off. Reset the timing, check the vac advance for proper operation, clean/rebuild the carb, set the idle speed and mixture.

 

  hiltz2o said:

The idle is still rough, sometimes stalls, also sometimes stalls when taking off if you dont pump the pedal.

 

Yep - carbs are a pain like that sometimes. It's a learning curve.

 

  hiltz2o said:

I checked the carb, it looks pretty worn out. I have ordered a rebuild kit and I'm wondering if that will solve the problem if it is the accelerator pump.

 

Look down the carb throat while you turn the throttle if you want to know if the accelrator pump is working. It probably is - they don't usually fail. And I doubt a carb rebuild kit alone will entirely solve the problem. It may help, but it's not a cure-all. There's too many other factors.

 

  hiltz2o said:

Also does anyone know if the intake manifold gaskets are prone to going bad?

 

If they are original with high mileage, or have ever been replaced with aftermarket then yes - they are prone to leaking coolant. Use only OEM gaskets, chase the threads and the bolts, use a bit of anti-seize, and torque to 12 ft/lbs only.

 

  hiltz2o said:

I noticed some oil on the spark plug wire where it plugs into the coil. It looks like the coil could be leaking some oil.

 

Could be - replace with a genuine OEM Hitachi or ND coil to match your distributor. Aftermarket coils are cheap and have been known to fail or cause the ignition module to fail.

 

  hiltz2o said:

The strangest thing is that this car seemed to be running pretty much normal a few days before I put it on the road. I could drive it all around and it didn't seem to have these kinds of problems then! Very frustrating! It almost seems like all this stuff has just made it worse but its probably just my frustration. If you can help THANK YOU:burnout:

 

Hope you figure it out.

 

GD