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i was just wondering (i have been told)that it is not a good idea to take your subee in to the water??

 

and from looking it seems like a lot would come into contact with the water if u did

 

i took my 95 legacy just barely into the creek and the check engine light stayed on after that

 

i dont wanna do the same thing to my "new"98 outback!!!

 

however i live in the woods i dont see pavement very often and across the creek happens a lot if u wanna get to the "good" spot. i know subees are used for off road but may be not the outback?????

 

anyone have any input????

 

 

 

thx in advance

 

jeremie

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I would never run any car through the water unless it was well below the axles. That is my take on it. Others would have no problem going through deeper water. Those that do go through water must expect the risk of doing that. Things will possibly get damaged, especially in the electrical area. The trouble may also not show immediately, but appear later on.

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Subies offer great traction in all conditions, but they are not swamp buggies. They are not made for crossing water. I wouldn't drive through a creek that is any more than 3 inches deep. Then, I would drive very slowly to avoid splashing water on the electricals.

 

If you want more of a swamp buggy, suggest buying a Jeep Wrangler with a 30" lift kit, and air intake snorkle that rises above the windshield.

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[...]i took my 95 legacy just barely into the creek and the check engine light stayed on after that [...]

It wouldn't surprise me if an O2 sensor was "unhappy" about that. I'll join the consensus, and recommend not crossing deep streams.

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Subies offer great traction in all conditions, but they are not swamp buggies. They are not made for crossing water. I wouldn't drive through a creek that is any more than 3 inches deep. Then, I would drive very slowly to avoid splashing water on the electricals.

 

If you want more of a swamp buggy, suggest buying a Jeep Wrangler with a 30" lift kit, and air intake snorkle that rises above the windshield.

 

 

well...if that thinking were true you shouldnt drive in the rain either huh?

 

 

and if i wanted to go faster u could buy a rocket... duh!

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also i think that the problem with the water is the haeders being so low to the ground and then being submerged taking water in that way??!

 

i wonder what the exhaust solution is?

 

No, the headers will not take water in. At least they wont if they are tight like they should be.

Your trying to over think things.

Stick to the K.I.S.S. principle ;)

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if your wheel/axle seals are in good shape I'd think you could cross 8" of water slowly with no problem...

 

as others stated you start going fast and that water get up under the hood where it shouldn't, which is one of the reason why the hood is there...

 

the water sitting on all the electrical components will cause corrosion faster...

 

some have had good success with sealing up the electrical connectors, but the newer the car the more connectors there are... rubber gloves, zip ties, etc, can help you seal some of the things up...

 

but you'll always want to check bearings and oils to make sure you're not getting water in there if you go in deep a lot...

 

 

--Spiffy

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You have to have the diffs submerged for a little bit to fill them with water.

Also, on all FI Soobs without any air intake mods, the cold air intake is in the fender well. Very easy to suck water up if you get to deep and could be catastrophic to a engine.

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picture was awsome

 

you think the older models are set up different??

 

ive never had one of those

 

killer pic though

 

im lookin at about 12-15 inches max

 

not deepsea diving lol

 

from everything ive heard probably just better to take the old pickup

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Also, on all FI Soobs without any air intake mods, the cold air intake is in the fender well. Very easy to suck water up if you get to deep and could be catastrophic to a engine.

 

I think of that every time I aim for a puddle... I just can't resist the rooster tail... I just hope my inner fender well liner holds up so I don't suck water in there... (:

 

 

--Spiffy

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im lookin at about 12-15 inches max

 

not deepsea diving lol

 

from everything ive heard probably just better to take the old pickup

 

 

You'll be fine. Just don't go charging through.

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are people on this forum seriously suggesting that you don't take a subaru thru water??! :eek::lol:

these aren't ford products, they won't break if you look at them funny and they don't catch fire randomly in parking lots. :rolleyes:

 

i have taken an old stock soobiewagon places that quads and big 'ol jacked up trucks couldn't go, with no more ill effect than a dented rocker panel where there was a stump hiding in the 14+ inches of water i was fjording :rolleyes:

 

yes, because your soob is substantially newer you do have a somewhat higher danger of electrical issues, but honestly, only if you submerge the ECU!! i agree that your particular O2 sensor may be a little finicky, you may want to double check that it's torqued into it's bung correctly. once you've done that, you're free to go "knuckle deep" as it were, just try to keep the water outside the doors :headbang: and do be aware of where your engine's air intake is, as hydro-locking is not a good thing, although it takes more water in an engine to experience this than most people think.

 

have fun, get dirrrty :cool:, post pics!

chris

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are people on this forum seriously suggesting that you don't take a subaru thru water??! :eek::lol:

these aren't ford products, they won't break if you look at them funny and they don't catch fire randomly in parking lots. :rolleyes:

 

i have taken an old stock soobiewagon places that quads and big 'ol jacked up trucks couldn't go, with no more ill effect than a dented rocker panel where there was a stump hiding in the 14+ inches of water i was fjording :rolleyes:

 

yes, because your soob is substantially newer you do have a somewhat higher danger of electrical issues, but honestly, only if you submerge the ECU!! i agree that your particular O2 sensor may be a little finicky, you may want to double check that it's torqued into it's bung correctly. once you've done that, you're free to go "knuckle deep" as it were, just try to keep the water outside the doors :headbang: and do be aware of where your engine's air intake is, as hydro-locking is not a good thing, although it takes more water in an engine to experience this than most people think.

 

have fun, get dirrrty :cool:, post pics!

chris

 

 

 

Water will not compress. So....

 

2457cc/4=614.25cc (cc per cylinder)

614.25/9.7 (compression ratio)=63.3 cc ("empty space" at TDC)

 

That's about 2.14 ounces of water, that's not a lot. I'm thinking that as little as a one cup of water could hydrolock the engine. At at 2,500 rpm

the engine could aspirate that much water in a couple of milliseconds.

ZERO tolerance for water even remotely close to the air intake if you want to keep the engine. A bent con rod will ruin your day.

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Water will not compress. So....

 

2457cc/4=614.25cc (cc per cylinder)

614.25/9.7 (compression ratio)=63.3 cc ("empty space" at TDC)

 

That's about 2.14 ounces of water, that's not a lot. I'm thinking that as little as a one cup of water could hydrolock the engine. At at 2,500 rpm

the engine could aspirate that much water in a couple of milliseconds.

ZERO tolerance for water even remotely close to the air intake if you want to keep the engine. A bent con rod will ruin your day.

 

Your math is a bit wrong... mostly because it doesn't account for all the cylinders.... and the evap and such... it does take a lot of water to hydrolock an engine... I feed engines water all the time, but mostly I've switched to seafoam, which is also a liquid.

 

Anyway, last time I played in water I broke my sub :eek:

100_1971.jpg

 

I had never taken the front end apart on this one before, so it was probably due anyway... Sure was fun

100_1869.jpg

100_1949.jpg

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Your math is a bit wrong... mostly because it doesn't account for all the cylinders.... and the evap and such... it does take a lot of water to hydrolock an engine... I feed engines water all the time, but mostly I've switched to seafoam, which is also a liquid.

 

those are sexy pics king!!

 

my version . . .

 

th_Wheelingatjohnsonsbar004.jpg

 

th_Wheelingatjohnsonsbar003.jpg

 

hydro-locking is something i researched pretty extensively a few years ago when i was modding my infiniti G35 cpe, wanted to put on a cold air intake, but at the same time i wanted to know that the average I-5 puddle here in washington state (small lakes to the rest of the country) wasn't going to cost me $4000 because my cone filter was 4" off the concrete :-\

it was fine. and any good air filter (doesn't have to be K&N, but i enjoy mine) will filter out all but the smallest water molecules unless you absolutely submerge the thing . . . which is why i said "be aware of where your intake is"

 

chris

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Water will not compress. So....

 

2457cc/4=614.25cc (cc per cylinder)

614.25/9.7 (compression ratio)=63.3 cc ("empty space" at TDC)

 

That's about 2.14 ounces of water, that's not a lot. I'm thinking that as little as a one cup of water could hydrolock the engine. At at 2,500 rpm

the engine could aspirate that much water in a couple of milliseconds.

ZERO tolerance for water even remotely close to the air intake if you want to keep the engine. A bent con rod will ruin your day.

 

Actually, my math is correct. You only have to fill ONE cylinder with about 2.2 ounces of water to hydrolock the engine. Even small amounts of water aspirated into the engine can drastically increase the compression pressure and cause damage. Authoratative automotive websites stress how little water it takes to cause hydrolock. Bottom line, it's your car so do as you please. Most posters with hydrolocked engines write how he or she was just going through a "small puddle" when the engine froze. If you have a beater that you don't mind losing go and ford a stream. If you have a car that you want to keep, take the advise of experts and cross water only when you can see the bottom and at a very slow (5mph) speed.

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If you have a car that you want to keep, take the advise of experts and cross water only when you can see the bottom and at a very slow (5mph) speed.

 

:rolleyes:

or, you could listen to experience of folks here who have many trails and streams under their belt (or belts, as the case may be [timing belts]) and sleep soundly knowing that if you take your subaru thru water and aren't a complete 'tard, it won't go boom :headbang:

 

"Authoratative automotive websites" also say never to drive over the speed limit, to check your lug-nuts and tire pressure daily, to always have your hands at the 3 and 9 o'clock position on the steering wheel (used to be 10 and 2 until they figured out people's hands were pushed thru windshields and mangled when the airbag goes off), and to never, ever, under any circumstances drive anywhere until your engine reaches full operating temperature (are you kidding me? at $4 per gallon?!) bad advice, not necessarily, but real world reasonable, not at all. . .

 

that is all

chris

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