consequences of not relieving fuel pressure?

[3eyedwagon]

It is very possible that the hydo locking did any number of things that could cause the engine to not turn. A bent rod (most likely your probelm) will cause the piston to dig into the cylinder wall. If a piston fractured, it could also dig into the cylinder wall with the same results. If the rod broke, it could dig in somewhere with the same results. A bent crank (alot let likely in my experience, none with Subaru engines, but, with 90 degree V engines instead) can also seize an engine completely.

 

My best suggestion would be to peak into the hole the pop created. You may be able to see the offending rod, and knock it loose with a little persuasion.

 

Hydro locks suck man, and they happen so easily. I've seen temp switches whipe out a few engines by overloading them with fuel.

[1997reduxe]

90 engine on ebay for like 350 + 150 ship,

but over 200K,

or this:

http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/1125138382.html

(i'm in Houston too.)

'97

[1997reduxe]

or car-part.com

has some with like 90 K but no price.

hope that helps

[90legacywagon]

thanks for the tips on the ej22's...I saw that one in Craigslist as well. I've been trying to buy an engine from Subex off this forum but I'm a little more concerned at this point that I will not be able to get the engine out.

Edited April 27, 2009 by 90legacywagon

[CNY_Dave]

If it's an auto, is it possible to just go ahead and pull the converter out with the engine?

 

If the converter just pulls straight out of the trans this should technically be possible, but I don't know how fragile the trans is, or if there's enough room to slide the engine forwards enough to do this.

 

Is it possible to pull the trans with the engine, then deal with it?

 

 

Dave

[ron917]

The torque converter should come out easily with the engine. There's plenty of room.

 

Normally, you want to avoid that, because reseating a Subaru TC is tricky, and if not done correctly, it will destroy the transmission pump. I was very nervous about the TC sliding out when I pulled the engine on the '99 OBW, but fortunately it stayed put.

 

There are threads here on USMB with explicit instructions for reseating the TC.

 

But in the case of an engine that will not turn, the only other option is to pull the engine and trans together.

[90legacywagon]

That is my dilemma...If I pull the torque converter out with the engine, won't I still have the same problem? How will I get the engine off of the torque converter if it doesn't turn?

 

If I pull out the engine and transmission, I guess I could save the transmission, and then reinstall it with a different torque converter and engine....?

[ron917]

I would get a used torque converter.

 

Whether you yank the trans with the engine or not, you'll have the same problem - how to get the TC off of the flex plate. Even if you leave the trans in the car, it will be OK, as long as you are VERY careful to install the torque converter correctly. You'll have to do that whether the trans is in the car or not. Supposedly, it's not hard to do, just very fiddly, you have to make sure it's fully seated. The service manual has measurements to check that the TC is seated correctly.

 

If the engine and trans won't mate the last quarter inch, STOP, the TC isn't fully seated. Don't try to draw them together with the bolts/studs, otherwise you'll be replacing the trans, too.

[johnceggleston]

That is my dilemma...If I pull the torque converter out with the engine, won't I still have the same problem? How will I get the engine off of the torque converter if it doesn't turn?

 

If I pull out the engine and transmission, I guess I could save the transmission, and then reinstall it with a different torque converter and engine....?

 

you can't completely remove the engine while still attached to the torque converter, it has a 'tail' that extends into the trans. but you can pull it forward untill you can reach the flex plate bolts or the TC connection to the tail piece, whatever you call it. i just slid the whole thing forward, and undid the flex plate bolts. this may not be possible if the engine does not rotate.

 

but when you reassemble, you will have to tighten the flex plate bolts in the access hole on top of the engine on the passenger side. so you may as well remove them there as well. i would suggest marking the position of the TPS and remove same for better access to the bolts. ( i breifly considered cutting away part of the cross member underneath the engine so i could tighten the bolts from below, but decided against it.)

 

if the engine will not rotate, id be tempted to lower the engine, trans, and cross member and lifting the rest of the car to remove the unit.

[CNY_Dave]

That is my dilemma...If I pull the torque converter out with the engine, won't I still have the same problem? How will I get the engine off of the torque converter if it doesn't turn?

 

If I pull out the engine and transmission, I guess I could save the transmission, and then reinstall it with a different torque converter and engine....?

 

 

Well that's easy- seperate the engine cases, or smash the bellhousing with a big hammer and make some holes you can use to access the bolts.

 

 

Dave

[johnceggleston]

i was scared to death of seating the torque converter, but it is not that difficult. the problem usually is that the one doing the work doesn't know there's that last step. when you know you have to go further, it's easy to do, at least it was for me.

 

there's a great write up on it with pics, give a search maybe check the repair manual here.