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There's no "average". Proper maintenance helps a lot. 150,000 seems to be a good time for problems to start, but that's just a random number that by no means applies to any specific vehicle.

 

At 95k you shoudln't have anything to worry about if it's running fine now. Don't overheat things (engine or trans), keep the tires matching, inflated and rotated properly, and change your ATF.

 

after market trans coolers are not necessary for all vehicles, the system is designed to run at a certain operating temperature. installing one on a car that doesn't need it could theoretically have the ATF running too cool. if you're not towing, off roading, driving through mountains, etc then it's likely you don't need one. this is assuming your radiator is in good shape since it does the cooling for your ATF.

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So, with proper maintenance and normal driving conditions, it will most likely last the life of the car. Well, that's great for the wallet, but my heart wants a 5MT.:)

 

I just had the ATF changed when Wentworth fixed a recall that had never been addressed. The park rod lever is the part that was recalled, whatever that is.

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There's no "average". Proper maintenance helps a lot. 150,000 seems to be a good time for problems to start, but that's just a random number that by no means applies to any specific vehicle.

 

my 95 4eat went bad at 165k miles, but i had driven it 90k miles with no service what so ever on the trans. that's my fault. but i was spoiled by driving my 93 4eat from 98k to 173k miles (totaled) with no service what so ever.

 

it is amazing how much you can learn and how much trouble you can avoid by reading and following the owners manual.:eek:

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131k on my 4eat. last flush 2 years ago-it's due. my question is, 2 years ago I had it "power flushed" with unknown ATF. Am I committed to power flushes now or could I the pump and dump method 4 quarts at time. can I screw things up by mixed the different brands? I guess I would just drive around a couple miles before I did the next dump. Thanks.

 

Anyone use any conditioners in the 4eat?

 

jon

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On my 97 Legacy, I got more than average life out of it. It started to bind occasionally at about 250k miles. I put the fuse in and kept driving it. At about 260k it started binding with the fuse in place, so I pulled the rear section of the driveshaft. At 265k the engine decided to sieze a crank bearing, while I had the engine out, I swapped in a 4eat that used to live in the SVX racer.

 

What did I do to get such great service out of the trans?

 

 

 

 

Not a damn thing... I bought the car in 1999 with 40k miles, from the time I bought the car to the time I pulled the trans out, it had the same ATF. I learned to autocross in that car, and while daily driving it saw redline shifts everyday. I took it off roading in the Pine Barrens in NJ and crossed through water over the bumper. I high centered it in the soft sand to the point that you could have changed all 4 wheels.

 

When I did drain it prior to removal, the ATF looked like used motor oil and smelled very burnt. But somehow she kept running fine and shifted almost as good at the end as she did when I first bought her...

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what are symptoms of awd going? torque bind? CEL? handling?

 

Sometimes it's Torque bind.

 

Sometimes it's the opposite, no AWD (no power to rear wheels)

 

Sometimes the failure will be from an electrical issue, Namely the C solenoid or it's wiring. This ussually trips a code. If a code is stored, you're *AT TEMP* light will flash a whole bunch (16 times) on start up.

 

I personally delivered pizza for a bit in a 93 Legacy with 300k miles, original 4EAT. AWD worked great in Wisconsin winters. Very slight Torque bind when backing up and turning. I never worried about it, it seemed to release after a the first *hop*

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I personally delivered pizza for a bit in a 93 Legacy with 300k miles, original 4EAT. AWD worked great in Wisconsin winters. Very slight Torque bind when backing up and turning. I never worried about it, it seemed to release after a the first *hop*

 

Actually thats normal for an AWD car. It takes the puter a second or so to figure things out.

 

 

nipper

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