brokebill Posted June 8, 2008 Share Posted June 8, 2008 86 GL wagon,5spd,2wd, carb i keep finding traces of oil in the air filter housing. pcv valve is about new. any ideas why this is happening? thanks, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted June 8, 2008 Share Posted June 8, 2008 I have the same issue with my carbed EA81.. It IS a PCV problem..could be a blocked hose..or some gunk may have gotten into and clogged the PCV valve again...Pull the lines ..check for build up ..either replace or clean if they do...check the valve again..and put in a new "filter" on the airbox..make sure you scrape out the plastic tree also.. Try that and see if it helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beataru Posted June 8, 2008 Share Posted June 8, 2008 A little oil never hurt anyone, although if it was my car I would want it to be clean and shiny. It is a PCV as bucky stated, pull out the valve and shake it, if it moves freely its good. Does the car run fine other than this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokebill Posted June 8, 2008 Author Share Posted June 8, 2008 havent noticed any new symptoms to go along with the breather oil. aside from recent hot start issues it actually runs out very well. also i have to set the idle at 1500+ for it to idle smooth. it wont idle right below that. it dont just seem to idle smoother at 1500+, it truly does smooth out. i'm thinking that may be egr related since i've heard that after about 1500+ rpm the egr is taken out of the loop. hope thats not too much info but just trying to let yall get a feel for the car (a true beater but i love it) thanks, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 8, 2008 Share Posted June 8, 2008 also i have to set the idle at 1500+ for it to idle smooth. it wont idle right below that. Vacuum leaks, timing, idle mixture, clogged idle circuit, etc. Even with worn throttle shafts I can get a Hitachi to idle at 700. it dont just seem to idle smoother at 1500+, it truly does smooth out.i'm thinking that may be egr related since i've heard that after about 1500+ rpm the egr is taken out of the loop. EGR is just starting to kick in around 1500 RPM. EGR opens on "late ported vacuum". Starts around 1500 and opens farther as your RPM's increase. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokebill Posted June 9, 2008 Author Share Posted June 9, 2008 once i cut the idle below 1500, its like cutting it to 100. it dies at every stop and starts slightly missing occasionally at different points throughout the driving range. overall just runs worse. when i do cut it below 1500, and it starts acting up, it doesnt immediately smooth back out after cutting back up to 1500+ but instead will continue to run crappy for a day or so then smooth out. (off the oil topic but was gonna post on this idle issue anyhow) any advice on this subject appreciated (besides the obvious get a Weber) thanks, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokebill Posted June 9, 2008 Author Share Posted June 9, 2008 anybody? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokebill Posted June 10, 2008 Author Share Posted June 10, 2008 pcv valve and hoses seem ok so oil is probably blow by in an extremely high mileage motor. tried to lower idle speed again, same results, erratic and rough. hunting vacuum leaks and seems to be one in the black plastic thing that is mounted next to (against) the oil filler neck. it has 2 vac hoses coming out of it both feeding into 2 small "things" with wires coming out of them (sensors? relays?) what is the plastic black thing and what are the 2 contraptions it feeds into/off of? can i bypass the black plastic thing and just hook the 2 hoses from it together or plug them? thanks for the id (feel silly just calling them things) and any knowledge on this subject. thanks, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 10, 2008 Share Posted June 10, 2008 pcv valve and hoses seem ok so oil is probably blow by in an extremely high mileage motor. Apparently you don't understand. If there is oil in the airbox, it IS comming from the PCV system. That's the only place it can come from. I gaurantee you don't have blow-by. EA engines do not exhibit that problem. tried to lower idle speed again, same results, erratic and rough. I listed a bunch of possible causes in my earlier post. It's most likely one of those. hunting vacuum leaks and seems to be one in the black plastic thing that is mounted next to (against) the oil filler neck. it has 2 vac hoses coming out of it both feeding into 2 small "things" with wires coming out of them (sensors? relays?) what is the plastic black thing and what are the 2 contraptions it feeds into/off of? can i bypass the black plastic thing and just hook the 2 hoses from it together or plug them? thanks for the id (feel silly just calling them things) and any knowledge on this subject. thanks, Bill Probably metering regulators - either a component of the feedback system or regulating vacuum to the metering ports on the carb. Pictures would be best - there are too many variations over years and models to tell based on a vague verbal description. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 10, 2008 Share Posted June 10, 2008 You're describing the Main and Slow bleed duty solenoids. On Feedback systems the ECU uses those solenoids to regulate the fuel ratio. Probably a good idea to remove the lines to and from them and check if any are plugged. Sounds like a problem with the slow system. IIRC that is the solenoid that leads to the port on the rear of the carb. See if it will idle with that tube open to atmosphere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokebill Posted June 10, 2008 Author Share Posted June 10, 2008 duty solenoids, thanks. and the black plastic thing (about the size of a soda can cut in half) the duty solenoids tie into is called what? one of the plastic nipples on this black plastic part that the vac lines hook to is broken and i just have it patched so i'll have to replace or bypass (if possible) it. as for pcv, the valve seems fine, the hoses that tie into the system are not blocked or collapsed so what am i overlooking that explains the oil? thanks, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 10, 2008 Share Posted June 10, 2008 duty solenoids, thanks. and the black plastic thing (about the size of a soda can cut in half) the duty solenoids tie into is called what? one of the plastic nipples on this black plastic part that the vac lines hook to is broken and i just have it patched so i'll have to replace or bypass (if possible) it. I think it's just a moisture collector/air resevior. Seems like tyou could bypass it or replace it with some other type of *canister* as for pcv, the valve seems fine, the hoses that tie into the system are not blocked or collapsed so what am i overlooking that explains the oil? thanks, Bill PCV seems fine. But have you replaced it with a proper OEM one??? Also did you replace the breather filter?? if that is clogged, the system can't work right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokebill Posted June 10, 2008 Author Share Posted June 10, 2008 not oem pcv valve, just whatever advance had. and you mean the little filter in the air cleaner that looks like a piece of a scotchbrite pad? its good. thanks, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 Have you removed and cleaned ALL the plastic T's and connectors as well as both valve covers? If there is any carbon blockage (there always is) you will suck oil. If there is oil in your airbox, you NEED to replace the PCV filter (white, scotchbrite looking thing). They are like $3 or less from the dealer.... get one and buy oil/air filters as well as an OEM PCV valve. Aftermarket are widely known to cause problems with sucking oil like that. The spring rate in them is wrong or something. It's best, considering you have questions about all the little bits and peices, as well as a feedback carb, to buy a factory service manual. Post in the wanted section, check ebay, or order from your dealer. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokebill Posted June 19, 2008 Author Share Posted June 19, 2008 oil in airbox, temperature riding just a little higher than usual (not much just a little) , and the tailpipe dont feel like it has the compression coming out of it that it should. sounds a little like a partially stopped up catalytic converter my wife had on an old firebird. also did the quarters in the air pump system today. nice trick. thanks, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 sounds a little like a partially stopped up catalytic converter my wife had on an old firebird. All things considered, that's a pretty rare phenomenon. At least I've never seen it personally in an EA soob. Drop the y-pipe, cut an access "flap" out of the top of the cat (die grinder or angle grinder - the cat's are stainless so don't try torching it open unless you use a steel overlay), and dump out the contents. Weld it back up and put the heat sheilds back on - no one will be the wiser. I've done many . GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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