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Gas tank woes


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Seems my '86 BRATs tank has developed a leak. Put about 8 gallons in it yesterday morning, and now I smell gas around it. Looked underneath it and the front of the tank is wet, but not dripping. Turned it around so nose is pointing uphill in the driveway. I checked it after a couple hours and it appears to be drying off. I'll drive it to work tomorrow to burn off some gas before I drop it down.

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Good thing about the Brat tanks is they are the same as the wagon/sedan/coupe tanks (4WD). If you need a mint NW version my yards pull them and leave them in the trunk.... at least they used to. I have yet to experience any kind of tank failure out here.

 

Or you could pull it and do a repair. There's several products out there - I've heard the POR-15 people make a kit that will seal them up good. Might want to do that even if you get a replacement.

 

GD

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A nice clean "no rust" tank would be great, but how would one get it shipped.

 

Thinking now that I won't take it to work today. It's possible that one of the hoses on there failed instead of the tank. If that be true, it's best to leave it sit until I can get under it to check things over.

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A nice clean "no rust" tank would be great, but how would one get it shipped.

 

In a box - UPS. I shipped an EJ22T block banded to a pallete to PA recently for $70. That was a lot heavier and there was a surcharge for the pallete.

 

I have corporate UPS through my work. They come twice a day!

 

GD

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Or you could pull it and do a repair. There's several products out there - I've heard the POR-15 people make a kit that will seal them up good. Might want to do that even if you get a replacement.

 

GD

 

I've done the POR-15 treatment on a tank. The hardest and fiddliest part was covering the pickup filter with a zip-loc tied up with string.

 

Apart from that, its just the waiting for each application to dry.

 

Unforch the hole around the sender was so rusted, I tore it open trying to fix a new sender to it so I didn't get change to see how it held up on the car....

 

Steve

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In a box - UPS. I shipped an EJ22T block banded to a pallete to PA recently for $70. That was a lot heavier and there was a surcharge for the pallete.

 

I have corporate UPS through my work. They come twice a day!

 

GD

 

I have UPS and FEDEX pickups from the mail room in my building - I have had so many car parts delivered recently the Fedex guy was asking for the employee who is starting up an auto shop :)

 

I'd love to see the look in their faces if I were to wheel in an engine block strapped to a pallet :lol:

 

Might need to ship a tailgate soon so looking for two boxes for each end...

 

Steve

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On my antique cars I take the gas tanks to my local rediator shop. He 'red coats' them. Won't work on diesel. I've had several done with no issues other than the stuff gets in the sending unit bolt holes and you need to run a tap thru them.

 

Haven't had one done in a few years but I usually paid 30-40 bucks. Probably about the price of a 'kit'. And has it done by someone who does it all the time and probably better than my one time every 2 years or so.

 

I have used POR15 on floor pans, etc and it's impressive - so are the fumes.

Never tried one of their gas tanks repair kits though and probably won't if I can get the tanks 'red coated'.

 

Dave

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Well,,, it is the tank. There's a bunch of pin holes above the seam on the front edge. I'll have to clean it of all the junk that's on it to really see how bad it is, but it don't look good.

 

I'm somewhat surprized that UPS will do a gas tank that has had gas in it.

 

I may try to get this one repaired, just depends on if the sending unit bolts want to play nice and come loose without breaking off. I'll soak them down with PB Blaster and/or Seafoam Deep Creep. But knowing Michigan rust like I do, I doubt they'll come loose.

 

Then again, I may go for a tank from the PNW. Would one of you get me the price of a tank and UPS shipping cost? I have use of Corporate address at 49203.

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I may try to get this one repaired, just depends on if the sending unit bolts want to play nice and come loose without breaking off. I'll soak them down with PB Blaster and/or Seafoam Deep Creep. But knowing Michigan rust like I do, I doubt they'll come loose.

 

Yup, those bolts snapping are what did my rusty tank in.

 

If you want to repair it, try all loosening techniques possible (including heat if you have drained the tank and left it long enough for the rest to evaporate).

 

If you can get the sender off ok, the POR15 tank kit and their PorPatch or Epoxy could be used to patch up the holes. The kit itself seals the tank from the inside and should fill in any pin holes.

 

At $73 for the kit though, you maybe better off with your latter option from the PNW.... A lot less work too!

 

Steve

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  • 4 weeks later...

Bought a tank off Stumpy, it's been here for over a week now. I've just been waiting for the weather to cooperate to get it swapped in.

 

Well, yesterday was a nice day, so I swapped tanks. Broke everyone of the hose clamps trying to get them off. Even broke a couple of the hose barbs off the tank removing hoses, so it be scrap metal now. Mustache bar came down with little issue, but the tank mounting bolts argued with me about coming out.

 

Made a trip to parts store for new clamps, and installed the "new" tank. Had to splice the sending unit wires together, as the ones under mine were badly corroded and broke trying to undo them.

 

Dumped in the 2 gallons of gas I drained from old tank and drove to the gas station. 11.855 gallons filled it, or should I say the $58.00 I had went into the tank. Gauge shows full, but it might not be completely full.

 

So far so good.. No runs, no drips, no errors (so far)......

 

Thanks go to Stumpy for sending me the tank. And to Mother Nature for doing a beautiful non rainy or otherwise wet day..........:clap:

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Ordered new filters yesterday, along with some hose to re-do the ones under it. Hoses looked and felt good, but now that I've "disturbed" them, who knows. Will do the fuel system cleaner once the filters get here.

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  • 2 months later...

Well,,,, looks like I rushed things a bit.

 

The Thursday before Labor Day, the BRAT wanted to fall on it's face if I ran up thru the gears hard. Spit and sputtered like it was running out of gas. Couldn't maintain speeds over 60 MPH very long either or same thing happened. It had been running good since I swapped tanks.

 

OK,,, time for new fuel filters. Left old ones in to catch any junk that may have been in the (new) tank, had new ones ready to go in. Swapped them out over the weekend while doing brakes all around. I poured rusty mud out of the one from the rear. Not a good sign!!!!!!

 

Drove it to work this last Friday with no issues, (1st trip made with it). Coming home, I stopped and put about 5 gallons ($20) in the tank. Stopped at my favorite Bar to pickup dinner (per Wife's orders). Upon leaving the Bar, it started the spit/sputter again, only now,,, can't do over 35 MPH in 4th, or extended lower gear runs. Drove the 20 some miles home on back dirt roads. Really wasn't fun at all.

 

I really should've flushed the tank out before I put it in. But no, I was in a big hurry to get the BRAT back on the road. Now, I get to drain roughly half or better tank of gas out to do so. Then I get to figure out how to filter the drained gas before I put it back in. It don't pay to rush things.

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Further update..... It ain't the tank........

 

Drained a little over 8 gallons out of it, gas is nice and clean looking. Swapped filters again, no noticable crud out of them. SO,,,, it looks to be either the pump going out, or the FPCU is acting up. Have spares of both. Could be the float in the Weber too, we shall see.

 

Atleast the rain is holding off for now....

 

 

 

edit: @2:51 PM

Ok.... Swapped the FPCU, no help.

Hooked the spare pump up, no help.

Was a strange feeling holding the pump while working the gas pedal with other hand. Felt like I had a beating heart in my hand, but the engine would still fall on it's face and sputter.

Pulled the top of the Weber. Hmmmm,,, very little gas in the float bowl. Float and needle valve operated freely. Used an air gun and blew thru all of the passages I could, and put the top back on. Still no help...

Guess it's time for a rebuild kit.........

Edited by TomRhere
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On/in one of my tank lines in my 82 wagon there is/was an in line restrictor/one way valve plastic doohiccy just in front of the firewall in the engine bay, I think its before the filter there(?). Does yours have the same? Might be an issue there causing a clog as well.

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instead of using air to blow out passages when the carb is on the car , you should use carb cleaner.more available pressure and cleaning at the same time.sometimes i found that there were pieces of gunk lodged in a passage,and that was the only way to get it out.

 

be sure to wear eye protection as some of thos3 passages lead right back to the ol' eyeballs.

 

if it does come down to a rebuild it is really easy.not much to those carbs, and most of the tolerances are usually good.just need to be cleaned really well.cheers, brian

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I used the air gun 'cause that's all I had at the moment. Could've swore I had a can of carb cleaner on the shelf, but couldn't find it. Probally went the way of my can of WD-40. Son overheard me tell of how WD and carb cleaner make for excellent wasp killer.... He killed the WD in less than 5 minutes.

 

Yeah,,, carb cleaner in the eye will definetly make you forget about anything else that may want to hurt. Some Beach!!!!!

 

Really thinking that the float needle tip has shredded, or there's some junk blocking the inlet. Not going to tear into it anymore until I have a kit here. Really was not wanting to pull the top off the carb when I did, but I had to see what was what in there. Definetly something amiss with fuel getting into the bowl. I had replaced all of the rubber fuel lines as I was doing filters and during this check of things. Had the thought of a line delaminating causing a blockage somewhere. Haven't found such gremlin...

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You do know there is a filter screen in the Weber carb top behind the nipple right? I would be checking that.

 

GD

 

Thanks GD. I honestly forgot about that inlet screen. Just got back in from checking it. No noticable junk in there either. Couldn't run it at 2500 RPM's very long after putting screen back in, falls on it face still. Will idle just dandy...

 

Not in the mood to mess with it any more tonight. Going to grab some items from work tomorrow to try a few more things, mainly to verify the fuel flow from tank to carb inlet. We have some hose at the shop that's clear/tinted Blue, you can definetly see if there's any air bubbles in a liquid going thru it.

 

Also plan to measure how long it takes to pump a gallon of gas thru the lines, I'll hot-wire the pump to do that. Plus check pump pressure.

 

Anyone have the info on flow rate for these pumps??

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FIXED IT!!!! I think.

 

Swapped the fuel lines from the seperator/filter to the carb with some of the clear hose from work. Started it up and watched the flow into carb. really didn't seem like alot of gas flowing to me, so I swapped the return line and started it again. It seemed to force the air in that liine out fairly fast, but it is a smaller line.

 

Tried to rev it up to 3000 rpm's and it started cutting out, didn't notice any air in the lines. So what the hay is going on here...... Had idea of swapping out hoses back by the pump and did so. That's when I found the problem...

 

Seems some bug had decided to make it's nest in the fuel line I intitially swapped when I changed the filter the first time. The hose had been on a shelf out in the garage for a couple weeks. Hose is about 5" long and it was blocked with mud and junk about in the middle. Wouldn't let the gas flow....

 

Took the BRAT out for a run, long runs thru lower gears and what have you. No spit/sputter/cough/gag/choke/puke out of it. YEA!!!

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