vwbuge1 Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 I went to change the plugs on my dad's Outback. Holy Crap!! I worked for 20 minutes on one plug and didn't even get it changed. Is there some kind of trick to getting them out? I finally found the correct length socket but I couldn't find a ratchet that would fit. That is some tight clearance. I thought about lifting the motor slightly just to clear the frame rails. How do you guys do it? Also, I want to change the transmission fluid and filter. Is that process straightforward? Are there any tricks to that? Should I just drain and lower the pan and drain the torque convetor? Thanks, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 I went to change the plugs on my dad's Outback. Holy Crap!! I worked for 20 minutes on one plug and didn't even get it changed. Is there some kind of trick to getting them out? I finally found the correct length socket but I couldn't find a ratchet that would fit. That is some tight clearance. I thought about lifting the motor slightly just to clear the frame rails. How do you guys do it?"Tricks" involve correct length adapters, flex joints, etc., to loosen and tighten the plugs, and pieces of rubber hose to spin the plugs in and out. The topic has been covered before, so a search should be successful. Also, I want to change the transmission fluid and filter. Is that process straightforward? Are there any tricks to that? Should I just drain and lower the pan and drain the torque convetor?How many miles since the ATF was last changed? You might want to consider either a full replacement by flushing, or multiple changes (3 plus) via pan drainage, if the mileage is high enough. Since the '97 is a phase-1, and doesn't have the external spin-on filter, dropping the pan may be worthwhile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 And which trans - sounds like it may not have an external filter. Probably a 2.5 - remove the windshield washer fluid tank and battery. A year wouldn't hurt to know as well as the engine size. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 [...]Probably a 2.5 - remove the windshield washer fluid tank and battery. A year wouldn't hurt to know as well as the engine size. I had the same questions, until I realized the title mentioned a '97. (For some reason when reading the body text of a post, I forget info given only in the title.) So, it should indeed be a 2.5, and the trans a phase-1 and therefore without external filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 Sometimes my reading (and typing) skills are challanged. I missed that it was a 97. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vwbuge1 Posted June 9, 2008 Author Share Posted June 9, 2008 That is what I was thinking on the plug thing. No real "tricks" just a management of tools. As far as the trans, it is indeed a '97 with a 2.5. Why do I need to remove the washer fluid tank and battery? I just assumed I would drop the pan, replace the filter and if I was feeling up to it drain the torque convertor. BTW, thanks for the quick reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 [...] I missed that it was a 97.I missed it at first, too -- must be getting old. I know there have been other posts on the topic, but here's one older thread on changing plugs: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46637 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 Yea - do some searching here. Removing the washer bottle and battery give MUCH better access on the drivers side. Sometimes I remove the airbox, sometimes I don't - depends on what else I'm doing. Sometimes the plug wires are stuck pretty good. Folks work on cars like they won't be the ones to work on them next time. A little dielectric grease and anti-sieze is the next guys friend. Them plug wires are expensive and sometimes get stuck in the recess them you're pretty well screwed. Actually, usually, I'm pulling the engine anyways to do HG's, seal the baffle plate, cam seals, Tb, and so on. Doing the plugs with the engine in the car if the person before you wasn't nice is a real pain. I think you should wait on a hotter day to do this work!! BTW did you make the first year VW show over here towards Pittsburgh on 22 this weekend? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 Once you remove the Washer fluid tank, and the air cleaner box on the other side, you will have pretty good access. I don't find removing the battery to be nescesary. Washer fluid will pour out the bottom when you disconnect the hose(s) so have some caps, or a length of hose you can stick on there to stop the dripping. There is a trick to getting the right length of extension as well. If you have a good quality spark plug socket (5/8ths) It should have a hex shoulder on the butt end, ussually a 3/4". Use a 3/4 deep socket on the back of you're spark plug socket and you should have just the right length. It is nessecary to insert each piece individually into the recess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 pulling the pan to replace the filter on the trans is not necessary. it doesn't have one, just a screen. and the pan gasket, actually the pan rim can be difficult to reseal if it gets twisted out of shape. better off to leave it alone if you don't have ot go into it for any other reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 pulling the pan to replace the filter on the trans is not necessary. it doesn't have one, just a screen. and the pan gasket, actually the pan rim can be difficult to reseal if it gets twisted out of shape. better off to leave it alone if you don't have ot go into it for any other reason. I agree with John. Only once did I pull off an AT pan with the best of intentions of replacing the trany filter to find the fine mesh screen that Subaru calls a filter. After 165K miles, the screen was still clean, so I reinstalled the pan using the old filter. That caused the pan to leak a little. You are far better off to just change the ATF about 3 separate times, and forgetting about changing the internal pan filter screen. Each ATF change only drains out about half of the ATF in the trany unit per operation, so that is the reason for changing 3 separate times. Yes, the spark plugs are a real PITA to change. I did so on my 99 Leggy Outback. It took two nights to finish the job, using a variety of sockets, drive extensions, mini drive extensions, swivels, and cussing to get the job done. I have heard that loosening the motor mounts, then jacking up the motor on each side helps, but I have never tried doing that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 I have heard folks comment about perhaps doing the plugs from the bottom but have never tried that. On some old Chevy's they used to make access holes through the fender well covered by a rubber flap. Apparently that's one idea the japanese haven't copied. Although I just changed the oil on a toyota trusk and the oil filter access was through the fender well like some of the old Chevy's. Best of luck. Patience definately required. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98obster Posted June 10, 2008 Share Posted June 10, 2008 I'm in the middle of my 4eat flush. they say the filter came in '98-for the '99 models I presume. Conveniently, when I drain the pan, it is almost exactly 5 quarts. 1st and 2nd flush I filled it back up with 4 quarts of cheaper store brand ATF and a quart of Valvoline Max life. 3rd flush I am putting all Valvoline back in (5 quarts). I will probably do another flush and put in the last 5 quarts of Valvoline a few days later. I'm doing this over a weeks time. as for the plugs: small hands and small tools-mmm, what's the smallest torque wrench that you have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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