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Let me clarify: HID conversions installed in a housing intended for completely different types of lights are for looks primarily. Using them for better night vision is misguided at best.

 

So in other words, you are saying that I installed HIDs purely for looks, or that everyone who installs them does it just for the looks? If that were the case, then why the heck is the light output 10x better than the highest wattage halogen light bulbs I could install?

I'll try this one more time.

 

If you did not do it for looks and think putting HID's in a fluted lense housing designed for different bulbs will help you see better, that's a little misguided. Do what you want, but actually read the links I posted and the graphs you already referred to. There is a reason these "conversions" are illegal on most every continent.

 

It's kind of like using an impact gun to put on your valve cover bolts. With lots of modifications to the gun you could get it to the point where it won't murder the bolts and shear them off... but it's still the wrong application. Using the right tool is always better than making the wrong tool work. :) Good night from the Eastern Daylight Savings timezone!

 

P.S. - The light might be 10x brighter, but not necessarily better. At a certain point even a halogen bulb would be too much for a given housing, it would need to be in a different housing designed to handle it's lumen output to put out an acceptable pattern.

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... Loyale2.7Turbo, I saw one of your vids on Youtube.com a little while ago.

That was very interesting seeing your car during it's transformation. Very Nice Work! :clap:

 

Patrick

 

Thank You! ... I'm Glad that you Liked it!  :) 

 

I have a new Video There, of my Yellow Wagon in Action. 

 


 

Back on the H.I.D. Conversion topic, let me tell you that the Lack of Regulating Laws about type and style of Halogens or H.I.D.'s that you can you install on any Vehicle, on my Country (Honduras) is one of the Factors that makes almost Any Honda, Toyota, Kia, etc, Owner to put H.I.D.'s on their Vehicles (Actually, the majority of Kits says: "Not Legal for Sale in the U.S.A." :eek: ) Those kits are Around 50W and I Saw Even Purple Lights (15,000K) that (I Think) is pure Garbage, just a "Hey, Look Me" Thing.

 

I Just Think that something between 5,000K and 6,000K is ideal, but here are Too Many H.I.D. Converted cars with Improper tuned Light Beam Patterns, that almost Fry the incoming drivers' Retines ... :angry: ... is So Sad but True.

 

I am still waiting here for the input from Other Loyale Owners with H.I.D.'s

 

Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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I upgraded my 9004 bulbs to 90007 silverstar bulbs. Went from 55w/65w to 60w/70w. To do the conversion you will need to swap the ground and high beam wires and grind or file off two of the locating tabs inside the headlight housing. They gave a wider and brighter beam than any 9004's that I found. Did the same conversion to my 92 toyota 4runner and don't regret it. I still like to have additional lighting for offroad and bad weather driving though. Can't have too may lights!

 

This might at least give you more options as far as replacement lights go.

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I'll try this one more time.

 

If you did not do it for looks and think putting HID's in a fluted lense housing designed for different bulbs will help you see better, that's a little misguided. Do what you want, but actually read the links I posted and the graphs you already referred to. There is a reason these "conversions" are illegal on most every continent.

I'm sorry it took so long for a rebuttle, I'm fighting some kind of virus, but anyway. The only thing that I have to say to that is that if HIDs do not improve night vision, why are there countless automotive companies around the globe that use them in their vehicles(e.g. BMW, Mercedes Benz, etc)? Yeah, if you use the wrong color temperature( like 15000K Purple) you are not doing yourself any good and you are going to wind up pissing alot of other drivers off in the process. And BTW, the United States is hardly every continent.

 

P.S. - The light might be 10x brighter, but not necessarily better. At a certain point even a halogen bulb would be too much for a given housing, it would need to be in a different housing designed to handle it's lumen output to put out an acceptable pattern.
If a halogen light ever gets to the point that it is too much for a housing, you give me the name of that manufacturer so I can go there and personally shake their hand right after I buy a pair of those bulbs to do some off-roading with. I have yet to see any halogen bulb not work in a houing for that designated bulb, no matter the brightness. Like I said, you let me know.
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Thank You! ... I have a new Video There, of my Yellow Wagon in Action! I`m Glad that you Liked it! :)

 

I'll get on Youtube.com and check it out. Kudos to you my friend for building such a fine Subaru. My hat goes off to you!:headbang:

 

Patrick

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I upgraded my 9004 bulbs to 90007 silverstar bulbs. Went from 55w/65w to 60w/70w. To do the conversion you will need to swap the ground and high beam wires and grind or file off two of the locating tabs inside the headlight housing. They gave a wider and brighter beam than any 9004's that I found. Did the same conversion to my 92 toyota 4runner and don't regret it. I still like to have additional lighting for offroad and bad weather driving though. Can't have too may lights!

 

This might at least give you more options as far as replacement lights go.

 

Now you got the gears in my head turning. :burnout: I might have to do some experimenting with that. I've thought about it, just never followed through with the idea. I'm glad that the 9007s work so well. Good info!

 

Patrick

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About the 9007 Bulb's Swap on 9004 HeadLamps... I went that Road Before and I don't Recommend that at All.

Why?
... Some years ago, I was trying to Upgrade my Wagon's Lights, and I went across a Fine Pair of 9007 that said 100W High Beam / 80W Low Beam; so After I did the...

 

... grind or file off two of the locating tabs inside the headlight housing ...

 

... I Discovered two Ugly things that Happened:

  • The Hi / Lo Beam Pattern Goes from one Side to Another, instead of Up and Down.
  • The Grinded part (I Did it on the Bulb's Base instead of the Lamp's Housing, but the Effect is the Same) did Allow Moisture to Enter the HeadLamps, Because the Bulb's Base doesn't seal good anymore; making Rusty and Darker HeadLamps... That's Why I Changed the HeadLamps, as I wrote Before.

So, very respectfully let me tell you that such swap is a very Bad Idea.

 

Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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About the 9007 Swap on 9004 HeadLamps... I went that Road Before and I don`t Recommend that at All.

 

Why? ... Some years ago, I was trying to Upgrade my White Wagon`s Lights, I went across a Fine Pair of 9007 that said 100W High Beam / 80W Low Beam; so After I did the...

 

 

 

..."Grind thing", and after some time, I Discovered two Ugly things that Happened:

  1. The Hi / Lo Beam Pattern Goes from one Side to Another, instead of Up and Down.
  2. The Grinded part (I Did it on the Bulb`s Base instead of the Lamp`s Housing, but the Effect is the Same) did Allow Moisture to Enter the HeadLamps, Because Bulb`s Base don`t seal Right there; making Rusty and Darker HeadLamps... That`s Why I Changed the HeadLamps, as I Said Before.

So (Respectfully) I Think that Swapping there 9007 Bulbs on 9004 Lamps is not a Great Idea.

:eek: Wow! That is kinda scary. Maybe I won't try that after all.

 

Patrick

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What is the Meanin` of the Word: "Kudos" ?

:confused:

 

and Please: Stop Fighting!

 

 

It is like saying good job or giving praise for a doing something very well.

 

Here is the definition:

ku·dos1 thinsp.png/ˈkuthinsp.pngdoʊz, -doʊs, -dɒs, ˈkyu-/Pronunciation Key - Show Spelled Pronunciation[koo-dohz, -dohs, -dos, kyoo-]Pronunciation Key - Show IPA Pronunciation

–noun (used with a singular verbthinsp.png) honor; glory; acclaim: He received kudos from everyone on his performance.

 

I'm very sorry for having a "Flame War" on your thread. I know that you are just trying to find an honest answer to your question, and I'm deeply sorry if I have been offensive.

 

Patrick

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Virrdog, I guess one thing that I need to keep in mind is that headlight technology has come a long way since the 1980's. So just because the HIDs look decent in my Demio, doesn't mean that they will look the same in an older Subie, no matter how much "tinkering" you do to them. I'm very sorry to you too if I have been offensive.

 

Patrick

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I have never had a moisture problem with my headlights after going to 9007's, even after playing in deep mud puddles. You must take the tabs out of the bulb housing instead of cutting new ones so as not to damage the bulb or its O-ring, and as long as you haven't taken too much of the housing off or made it out of round, the locking ring will provide adequate pressure to seal the headlamp. As far as the beam goes, it starts out wider than the 9004's but definitely does raise up when switching from low to high. If you cut your own locating tab slots but didn't index them to the correct tab that does line up you will have lighting problems as the filaments will not be positioned as they were intended to be.

 

The only differences between the 9104's you have and the 9007's are two of the locating tabs are different, the high beam and ground terminals are swapped, and any difference in wattage that you can also find between two brands and styles of any headlamp.

 

Adding more lights is the fast easy and effective way to get better lighting.

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Thats because there are 100's of hours that go into designing the proper lense and reflector for the proper bulb. Have you not read and digested the threads. Over and over it has been said that to USE HID system (a proper one is more then just a bulb). They have specific reflectors, lenses, and geometry made for them to optimize the pattern and output.

 

In the USA aftermarket, kits are illegal for this reason, you cant simply just put it an lense for a halogen and have a good light pattern, proper focal point, and reduced glare.

 

nipper

 

 

I've read plenty. I've studied plenty. Why do you think that I said when I installed my HIDs in my current car('97 Mazda Demio) that it took me about a week to get the proper light pattern, and that it was a very "labor intensive" process? While I do agree that it doesn't look as good as if it were an OEM HID setup with the sharp cutoff, they have the same beam pattern as the halogens they replaced, just about 10X brighter. I am not the average irresponsible joe who just throws in some HIDs and goes, without thinking of my fellow drivers. I know how I hate to get blinded by poorly aimed headlights, Halogen or HID. That is why I took so much time to carefully aim them and prevent excess glare.

 

Patrick

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Listen--

 

I cannot get a photo right now because my camera isn't working.. but I GUARANTEE YOU that you still have a problem with your headlight circuit.

 

My stock headlights, with the stock bulb, are far far brighter than what you posted. I have NEVER had a problem with my headlights, other than the spread they offer.. which would simply take some driving lights aimed low and slightly to the outside of the road to fix.

 

Jes, have you tried replacing your headlight relays with the bosch style? Have you considered running new wire to everything?

 

Please, do me a favor. Hotwire the headlights, straight off of the battery, temporarily. Just the low beams. Start the car with the headlights hot wired directly to a battery, get in, and see how bright it is. If they are STILL rather dim, when connected directly to a battery, then I will shut up.. I simply cannot see how anyone needs more light than the stock units put out.

 

 

When I turn on my low beams, they are WHITE. Not yellow in color, white. High beams too. They look more like your driving lights than your headlights, and remember, I am still using 9004 bulbs. I don't know if it is possible that your Subaru realsy are no good, or if it is the wiring, or what... but I cannot help thinking that all this fuss is not necessary. In addition, if you DO have a wiring issue, then it should be addressed before installing higher drain devices into the circuit...

 

If all else fails, try installing a pair of the four-prong relays for each headlight, right behind the headlight, and run fresh power supply wires to them, being signaled by the existing high and low beam hot wires. You might even be able to find a single relay with two power outputs and two signal inputs, to use one single relay behind each light.. or try marrying the two high beams and low beams each onto one relay.

 

What I am saying is, I REALLY REALLY think your stock lights are nowhere near as bright as they should be. I know you know how to work with electrical systems, and I read that you went through everything.. but I KNOW my lights are brighter than yours.

 

 

 

EDIT

 

I just finished reading the thread and saw that you did try that with one side... did you attach both hot and ground wires directly to the battery??

 

SOMEthing is not right with your lights, im telling you. When I hold my high-beam switch to the spot that turns on both high and low beams, I could not ask for any more light on the road.

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...

...When I hold my high-beam switch to the spot that turns on both high and low beams, I could not ask for any more light on the road.

 

First: Thank you All for Writing.

and Yes, I Think they`re Very Bright when I Hold the the Beam in Both Low and High Position at the Same Time... (My `85 White Wagon can easy stay like that alone if I Leave the Stick in the Middle) ...But it makes me to ask another Question: is Safe to keep the Car with Both Low & High Beams at the Same Time for long time periods?

Well... I must say that I did Wired Directly to the Battery one Headlight, both the Positive (+) and the Negative (-) with another Bulb`s Plug... Both (The Car Wired and the Battery Wired Bulb) did look the Same.

Let me Explain Something: My Subies have Good Lights, enough for City Driving; but I have had been in very Dangerous Situations during Night / Rainy \ intense Traffic Driving situations, due -in part- to Poor Lights, but let me Explain:

To Understand better, please Consider this Facts:

First: Here in Honduras, due to the Lack of Laws & Regulations about Car`s Lights and other issues... (Like Open Exhausts, Too Noisy Stereos, etc... ) -there are many many Ricers here- ...many people had install in their vehicles, H.I.D. Conversion Kits, very Bright and some with Offending Colours (Could you Imagine very bright deep Purple or Blue? ... is Pathetic) but many other People did the H.I.D. conversions -Not only Ricers- without any adjustmant to avoid to fry incoming driver`s Retines... :-\ ...and here are too many H.I.D. converted cars (Mainly at 8000K Bluish-White light) Here in the Market you can find easy 50W H.I.D. @ 8000K Converting Kits that says "Not for Sale in the U.S.A." and so other Parts...

Second: Considering the said, plus Fact that here already are too many new cars / trucks that came with H.I.D.s (Like the new Hondas, Toyota "HiLux" Quad Cab, Mitsu "Sportero" Double Cab, Isuzu "DMAX" and several Chinese & Korean brand Cars & Trucks, etc... just to mention some, all with H.I.D.`s) There are Too Many Cars with H.I.D.s :-\ I Imagine that there in the U.S.A. and Other Countries, the Story must be the Same, but:

Third: Considering that mostly Our Roads are Not very Wide (In Fact, the majority are just the Wide to allow one car on Each Side, one Comin` and one Goin` and That`s All) you Drive very Near the Incoming Car and almost every car got H.I.D.`s or at Least a Pair of bright Halogens...

Four: is a Shame, but Honduran Drivers Usually Forget to Down the lights to the Low Beam during incoming Traffic...

Five: Ussually there are too many Vagrant Animals on the Roads, along to Rain covered PotHoles, Drunk Drivers... :mad: ...Yes, to Drive here is some sort of risky Adventure.

Six: Some Horrible Experiences due -in Part- of Poor Lights: Beside the PotHoles my Subie did Fell on the Roads, about a two months Ago, I did a Family trip on my White Subie, with my Sis, my Wife and my Mom (we Where Going to a Family`s friend Wedding) and during the Trip, in some part of the Road, I Was Driving around 35 MPH, it was Slow Raining, and an Old Pick up Truck was Coming -slowly too- in the Other Way; I did Switched Down the Lights to the Low Beams, so the Other Driver Did; and then, when the other car was about twenty meters in front of us, we saw just a Shadow crossing between both cars, I Switched High Beams and didn`t saw Nothing; the other Driver did Switched to High Beams Too, just then we Heard a Huge Impact Noise: a Horse was There, the other car did Hit the Horse`s body by side directly, the Horse screamed horribly loudly, I Stopped my Subie Inmediately and we Saw the other car very damaged, passing over the Horse`s Body! :eek:

It was Horrible, the Other Driver lost Control and passed too Near (Really Scary too Near) of Us, then Stopped. We Helped him Untill his Family Reached to the Area, he got just Minor wounds but his car`s Front and other parts -as the Rad- was Destroyed, the poor Animal was Dead and all of us very sad and Nervous... He said he did not saw Anything, so like Us, we did not saw Anything, just Shadows, and we where Driving Slowly...

Seven: I Think that with Brighter Lights, we should saw that Horse, because in similar situations, the Incoming Car with Brighter Lights did made a Shadow enough heavy to Warning us about the Animal`s Presence there.

Several Situations like That, in Many Many Years of Driving, makes me Think that the Subie`s Headlights are mostly intended for City Driving, or Somewhere else where Incoming Traffic Lights aren`t too Near & Too Bright, Like HighWays... Here are some HighWays and There seems the HeadLamps work Well, also they illuminate Good off Road too; but with Near Incoming Lights, Subie`s Lights seems to be Absorbed...

That`s the Situation why I Installed a Pair of 100 Watts -Each- UnderBumper Halogens, they are the Ones that are Giving me Safer Illumination -as you can see on the First Post`s Pics- and it Makes me Think -by seeing the Headlamps On, along the UnderBumper Halogens On- that the HeadLamps Should be as Bright as the UnderBumper Ones, to get Safer, better Illumination.

Thank you all for Reading this Large Post, but I Hope that now You`ll Understand Better my Driving Situation.

Thanx! :burnout:

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Oddly you just desribed driving on a firday night in rush hour on the cross bronx expressway in NYC.

 

:popcorn:

 

Well... I Believe You.

 

As a "Popular Mechanics" Magazine Fan (in Spanish, is called "Mecanica Populár") I Read it every Month almost since I can Read, I Remember an Article about PotHoles in some of those Streets, and the Road Tests made there...

I Think my Li`l Developing Country is an Ideal Place to do Road Tests. :burnout:

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I installed HID's on my 89' GL last week. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HID-CONVERSION-KIT-Bi-XENON-H4-9007-9004-Dual-Hi-Lo_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ36476QQihZ002QQitemZ120277767566QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Well, They are amazing off road and in the woods;) But the drive there on the open dark Highway was kinda dissapointing. My Headlights are in like new condition with a very clear class and a spotless reflector. I pulled out that round black thing in front of the bulb a long time ago and I did noticed an improvement in light output with my stock bulbs. I installed the HID's and they have a GREAT wide flood pattern, highly reccomended for off road, they also light up EVERY road sign, reflector and shiny thing on the guard rails and the lines on the road like no other. I had to squint a little when I passed a Semi Trailer with all those red/white markers strips down the side. Ther's somethin about HID light that makes those suckers and those green road signs with white letters 5 miles down the road glow and glare like how black light lights up white T-shirts in a dark room. Oh yeah, I also got flashed by EVERYBODY. I pointed them way way down and still got flashed. I knew by removing that black bulb guard thing along time ago will make my lights a bit less friendly to on-comming traffic before I did it, I've done it before on lots of different vehicles and never got flashed. I ran without'm for months and never got flashed till the day I ran 4,300k HID's. Their long range beam sucked relly relly bad compared to the stock bulbs. That's all I have to say about that.

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Jes,

 

Well, I suppose I am just not imagining what a photo of my headlights would look like. Mine would probably look alot like yours in a photo, then..

 

I frequently hold the hi-beam stick in the position with both filaments on for up to 30 seconds at a time, and I have held it on for maybe a minute or two at most.. but it is difficult to leave both switched on with a switch that wants to click into high or low position. I have asked the same question about wiring both to be on and not gotten an adequate response. I assume nobody really knows.

 

If your white car can hold both filaments on, then I would suggest you try it out. You might want to remove the plastic cover to the steering column, so that you can feel the wires for the headlight switch, and see if they get hotter than normal. As far as I can tell, the greatest risks are blown fuses, possibly blown fusible links, and blowing headlight bulbs sooner than you ordinarily would because of the excess heat. I have not experienced ANY negative effects from what I have done, and I get all my replacement headlight bulbs at the junkyard. I haven't had to replace one in over 2 years.

 

 

And, like nipper said, don't imagine that here in the US everyone drives nicely, aims their headlights properly, and we have no potholes or narrow roads. Down here in S. Florida, I see everything from green headlights to purple, aimed in every which direction.. my personal favorite is the driver side headlight aimed up and out (directly at my eye) with the passenger side aimed so low it looks almost extinguished to my eyes.. Potholes, don't even get me started, and bright lights??? Half the time the people have them on because their low beams don't WORK right!!! I am certain the driving conditions in Honduras are worse.. but US is no paradise :D

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... I am certain the driving conditions in Honduras are worse.. but US is no paradise :D

 

Well... but People there are more concerned with Driving Security and have more Respect for other Drivers and pedestrians, (I Drove around 1,600 Miles along Florida in 2001 -in a Friend`s Honda- from Miami to Orlando, Key West, Fort Lauderdale, etc... it was a Great Diving Experience!) not like Here... :-\ ...in my Country Some Drivers are even Worse than Cows on the Road.

 

I need to Rectify something: Yes, my White Wagon have Electrical Problems with the Lights, maybe I was Wrong; Let me Explain:

 

I am -right now- in a Family Trip, last night, while Driving in a Muddy / Rocky Road, with slow permanent Rain, when my Subie fell on a Pothole (we was at around 20 / 25 Miles Per Hour) the Driver`s Side Headlamp went off, and the Dashboard... :eek: ...only Left on the Passenger`s Side Headlamp and the Blue light High Beam indicator at the Dash... :mad::banghead:

 

I Turned off Inmediately the Lights (The UnderBumper Halogens was Off all the road, `cos we where offroad, but they are in a Whole Independent Circuit right from the Battery) Then, I stopped the Car, tried again with the Lights, they went On, and I Checked the Volts Indicator at the Dash, it was doing around 12.5V, then after few minutes going, another li`l Pothole and Passenger`s Side Light went off, the Dashboard`s Lights went off 85% so I did saw the Voltage Gauge at around 11V. So I Switched off the Main Lights and Drove with only the UnderBumper Halogens.

 

Short Circuit? ... Loosen / Damaged \ Worn Lights Relay? ... What it could be?

 

I Don`t belive it is Short Circuit, `cos I Triple Checked Wires and Everything is Fine, no burnt Fuses, etc...

 

It is the First time I got that Behavior in 23 Years of having that White Wagon (1985) so, could it be the Lights Relay?

 

I Don`t Know exactly where it is or how it Looks Like... but I Have the Idea, `cos sometime ago I Changed all the Air Conditioneer Relays with Bosch ones.

 

Please, help me; any Idea is Welcome.

 

Thank you so Much.

 

JesZeK :burnout:

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Does this have a circuit breaker on the light circuit? It's been a long time i dont remember. Usually the dash lights are on a branch thats seperate from the head lamps, with a commonality at the switch. I would look for a problem before the switch.

 

 

 

Or a bad ground.

 

nipper

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the headlight relays should have tabs that they slide onto, and those tabs are bolted to the firewall, under the hood, on the passenger side. Two small relays, not sure which is which.

 

wish I could help you more, but I've been studying the electrical system of my 280Z in SERIOUS detail lately, and that information has pushed anything I might have known about the subaru that could help you, OUT of my mind... wiring diagrams are haunting my dreams at this point.:dead:

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Thanx for your Kind Replies!

 

I`ve Just Arrived of my Trip, the Lights was a Nightmare, if I Didn`t have the UnderBumper Halogens, I Don`t believe I could drive this night... `cos I Drove with main Headlamps Off.

 

I Checked again the Wires, the only Loosen Part I`ve Found, is the Two Wires` Plastic Plug that goes into the Alternator... Today`s Night I hope I could Change it and see if it makes a Difference in the Lights Behavior.

 

I Believe that the Headlamp / Dashboard Diminution Problem, is related to a loosen part, around the Alternator, `cos Charge goes along Lights.

 

It seems to happens only when I Switch High Beams, after a minute or So... (too much power drain for a loosen part, I Believe) ...and in low Beam, the charge seems to be not enough too; let me Explain: Before the Problem my subie was doing -reading the Dash`s Voltimeter- around 14V without Lights, around 12.5V with Low Beam Lights and just around 12V at High Beams; but Now it seems to be 14V without Lights (But Now that reading change to just 12V or 11.5V for shot times, then back to 14V as the car moves in the Road, so it became Unstable), Barely 12V with Low Beam, and 10.5V in High and then Diminution occurs.

 

Also when it Happens, the Diminution won`t Go, even if I Switch back to Low Beams... Only Switching Off the Lights and Back to On will Revive `em, but I did Drove with Lights Off, Just with the UnderBumper ones to Prevent bigger problems.

 

The Voltimeter Gauge Behavior lets me think about a Loosen Wire around the Alternator, but if So: Why it seems to go only one of the two HeadLamps?

 

I`ll go work for now, and let`s see this Night if Changin` that Loosen Plug will Fix this up!

 

Thank You! :burnout:

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