Uberoo Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 I just bought a 89 4x4 manual justy for $25.The car itself is almost mint.The only thing wrong with it is it has a blown engine.evidently at some point it was ran out of oil.The engine still runs but has insanly loud rod knock.Then I towed the car home with my 83 GL BAJA and it didnt even notice the justy behind it... seeing as I paid only 25 for it its a good deal,even if the engine doesnt work because I can part it for a lot more than I paid for it,assuming I can't find an engine...plus it had 3/4 of a tank of gas!!! speaking of which anyone have a justy engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 Fix it - Justy engines are easy to rebuild from what I hear. Probably the usual oil pump problem they always have went a bit too far on it. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted June 19, 2008 Author Share Posted June 19, 2008 How can I fix insane rod knock?cheaply?Other than a new engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 Remove engine (Its a 3cyl, you can pull it by yourself). Tear engine down. Replace bad parts with new. Put engine back in car. / Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted June 19, 2008 Author Share Posted June 19, 2008 what is a good source to get the needed parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 Middle bore in the block is likely to be scored. Its been the one that is bad on 4 I tore down in the past. Otherwise I agree easy build. A little harder to get out of the engine compartment than a regular Subaru flat of course. Depends on what you are used to. Get a new timing chain and guide while you are at it. Dealer available last I tried. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted June 19, 2008 Author Share Posted June 19, 2008 so how do I fix the middle bore being scored? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misledxcracker Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 All depends on how bad the scoring is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted June 19, 2008 Author Share Posted June 19, 2008 I can get a used engine for 130+gas at pull and save. would it be better to get a used engine or rebuild the existing engine? I suppose I could pull the engine and see how bad it is. Do I have to remove the engine and transaxle or do I seperate the engine/tranaxle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misledxcracker Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 Why bother pulling the transmission? Split it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxerbob Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 I can get a used engine for 130+gas at pull and save.would it be better to get a used engine or rebuild the existing engine? I suppose I could pull the engine and see how bad it is. Do I have to remove the engine and transaxle or do I seperate the engine/tranaxle? well your already tearing the motor out to rebuild or replace so you kinda need to weather you leave it in or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted June 19, 2008 Author Share Posted June 19, 2008 I was asking if the engine and transaxle came out as a unit or if the engine would seperate form the transaxle in the engine bay... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 I've never had or worked on a Justy, but from what I've read here on the board, I believe it is all Subaru. Some front wheel drive cars have shared mounts for the engine and tranny, so at least, you may have to put a jack under the tranny to hold it up while you remove the engine. Also, keep in mind that you'll have to move the engine to the side to split it from the tranny, is there enough room for that? it would be a good time to replace the clutch. Again, I've never had a hand on a justy so I'm just talkin' here. I would say get the used engine, and re-seal/gasket it before installing it. Then afterwards tear into the original to see what the problem is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted June 20, 2008 Author Share Posted June 20, 2008 I was planning on doing a reseal/gasket job on the new engine along with replacing the timing belt.Anything else I should do to the newish engine?replace oil or water pump?or just reseal... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joostvdw Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 I've always heard the oil pumps are the weak link on justys and so I would thoroughly check that before putting it back in with your "fresh" motor, perhaps even a new one just to be sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 Definitely replace the oil pump, water pump, alternator belt and balance shaft chain while you are in there. You will be glad you did. I would also recommend a new clutch. As for splitting the engine and tranny, I would recommend pulling both at the same time and installing them connected. There is not enough room in the engine compartment to easily line up the tranny with the pilot bearing. The key with the Justy is maintenance. The oil pump is actually a maintenance item. Since you basically have to pull the engine to get to it just replace the oil pump rotors when you change your timing belt. You might consider having a shop recondition your pistons too if you have the engine apart already. FSM highly recommended. There is not much aftermarket support for the Justy, but they are awesome little machines if you take care of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hondasucks Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 Check the balance shaft, the guy i work with (Who remembers the original 3-lug Justies that all got recalled!) says a bad or out-of-time balance shaft will make the engine make all sorts of noise. But Justy engines are pretty easy to yank and rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted June 21, 2008 Author Share Posted June 21, 2008 I went up to spokane and got an engine.cool thing was someone had already pulled the transmission and left the engine sitting in the engine bay,win! I then bought various parts from rockauto: timing belt valve cover gasket exhaust manifold gasket water pump gasket and spark plug wires(at 6.76 for the set who cares!!!) as for the water and oil pumps how will I know what will still work?or would it be better just to order the oil and water pumps? I know right now I have 300 into the car,25 for car,210 for engine(engine plus gas to get it) and 57 worth of maintance items.... although if I need to I could get the oil and water pumps...just be further into debt... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McDave Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 Definitely replace both pumps. The motor has been sitting so seals dry out. It's cheap insurance, you don't want to risk blowing your new motor, not to mention the trouble of having to change them later in the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 i would at least price them. +1 on the oil pumps being problem items on justy's - that's mentioned quite often. and it requires yanking the motor? that sucks - i'd want to replace it if possible. if the water pump is easy to replace in the car then you have the option of not replacing it. you're so close to 40 mpg, woo! depending how much you drive you might be saving $30 - $100/month. it'll pay for itself quick! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zukiru Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 I have some experience with sideways front wheel drives. I have always had my best experiences dropping the engine and transmission out the bottom of the car. oooh i see it has balance shafts! that's a very common source of lots of engine noise! is it auto or manual? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted June 22, 2008 Author Share Posted June 22, 2008 the car is a manual. ok Im pulling the engine/tranny out of the car.I have everything disconected except the transmission mount,the linkage,and the CV axles.ran out of time today because of a late start.Anyway what is the best way to get the transmission free from the CV axles?Im gonna be pissed if I have to pull the suspension to get the transmission out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zukiru Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 prepare to be pissed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 the car is a manual. ok Im pulling the engine/tranny out of the car.I have everything disconected except the transmission mount,the linkage,and the CV axles.ran out of time today because of a late start.Anyway what is the best way to get the transmission free from the CV axles?Im gonna be pissed if I have to pull the suspension to get the transmission out. Assuming all is disconnected except the trans mount, linkage, and CV...do those and pull. You did take the radiator AND the radiator core support out, didn't you? If you pull the suspension, you're doing it wrong. hth Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 Originally posted by Uberoo Anyway what is the best way to get the transmission free from the CV axles? The axles are held onto the transmission with a single roll pin on each side of the transmission where the axle meets the tranny. They are fairly easy to remove, so if you have to use excessive force then you are probably using a punch that is too big and may be jamming it into the hole. The driver's side is easy. The passenger side is a bit of a PITA. You have to support the engine and tranny and remove the engine support that runs from the front of the car to the cross-member to get proper access to the roll pin. My Justy is an '88 (Gen 1) yours is an '89 (Gen 2), so they may be slightly different. On my Gen 1, I don't have access to the passenger side roll pin from the top, so I have to get under the car to tap it out. Important note: make sure there is enough space behind the roll pin as you are tapping it out. If the roll pin is pointed toward the engine, there is not enough clearance and you can pound it into the aluminum like a nail before it has cleared the axle cup. I make sure mine is vertical. You don't have to pull the suspension. If you are having trouble pulling the axles off the tranny you can remove the control arm bolts at the inner pivot point for more range of motion, just remember to put them back in after you get the axles free. You might start looking for a factory service manual now, because there is essentially no aftermarket manual. There is a Chilton's that has a section on Justys, but it is not to be bothered with. FSM's range from $30-$60 on Ebay. Don't bother with the CD version. Also, is you Justy carbed or FI? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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