Uberoo Posted June 22, 2008 Author Share Posted June 22, 2008 my justy is carbed. why do I remove the upper radiator support?it looks like its welded in place or something..and the center bar?why remove that?also what size punch for the axles?the other subarus are 3/16" are justys the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zyewdall Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 oooh i see it has balance shafts! that's a very common source of lots of engine noise! if they go bad? I was told that they are required because it's a 3 cylinder engine, in order to reduce vibration, which sounds like reducing engine noise. Z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 Originally posted by Uberoo why do I remove the upper radiator support?it looks like its welded in place or something..and the center bar?why remove that?also what size punch for the axles?the other subarus are 3/16" are justys the same? The radiator support looks like it's spot welded, but it's actually held on by a couple nuts...same with the center bar. For the minimal amount of removal work you get a lot of clearance for engine/tranny removal and installation. The roll pins for the axles are smaller than for other subarus, but I can't remember what size and I couldn't find any info in the FSM, sorry. I'll try to remember which punch I used and post the size a little later, I just have to dig through my tools. I know you just want to get this thing running, but you might consider a carb rebuild before installation. They are ridiculously difficult to remove from the engine compartment. Also, it's probably hard to believe, but a carbed Justy will drop to EA81 and EA82 mpg's pretty easily if the carb needs a rebuild. At that point you might as well be driving a wagon. If you do the rebuild, they have an internal duty solenoid that is easy to break fyi. The Justy is like a small animal, it has a higher metabolism. There's only 3 cylinders, the parts are small, and they wear out faster. I know you probably don't want to replace all this stuff and put in more time, but it's worth it. Do it while the engine is out. If you don't, you won't get the mpg's, it will run like s**t, and you will be pissed because you will have to pull the engine again to fix it. It is for this reason that Justy's get neglected. Nobobdy wants to pay a mechanic to do the work, because it costs more than the car is worth. It then becomes a disposable vehicle. They drive it as long as they can and then sell it for $25-$250. You got a screamin' deal on your car. Put some time and (relatively little) money into it and it will reward you, if you don't it will piss you off. With two engines you're set. You can rebuild one really nice while still having a DD, when it comes to the maintenance removal you just swap them out. You can get .002 over-size ring kits for them and/or bore out the cylinders 1 mm and get new pistons, so you can keep this thing going for quite a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 Looks like I was wrong about the roll pins. The punch I used was a 3/16, and the used roll pin diameter measured .2 inches/5mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeEyedBandit Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 Just some information on the oil pump, you don't need to pull the engine to replace the rotor and outer. It is real easy to do in the car. Now as far as the oil pump you need to either sleeve the housing were the pump gets driven or replace the housing(expensive and 2 in the country). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted June 23, 2008 Author Share Posted June 23, 2008 so where can I find a oil pump rotor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zyewdall Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 Just some information on the oil pump, you don't need to pull the engine to replace the rotor and outer. It is real easy to do in the car. Now as far as the oil pump you need to either sleeve the housing were the pump gets driven or replace the housing(expensive and 2 in the country). Yes.... it's a bizarre design with the housing of both the oil pump and water pump built into the front of the engine, so you only replace the rotor/impellor and seals, not the whole thing like you would if it was a separate element. Was this a subaru designed engine or who?? It's a crazy little creation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 so thats what you were doing in town.i was our of town mate.sorry i couldn't help.cheers, brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted June 25, 2008 Author Share Posted June 25, 2008 yesterday I got the engine out.I guess I can't rebuild it because the old engine has about a fist sized hole in the block...oh well.. now Im just waiting on parts for the "new" engine.Anyone want to help put it in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeEyedBandit Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 Was this a subaru designed engine or who?? It's a crazy little creation. Yes it is, I will argue this until sombody can find me some sort of solid facts that they at least stole the idea from suzuki:)(which they might have, but thats like arguing the subaru stol the idea from VW, but I am not going there thats what the locals are for:cool: ). Now after 1994 it was all suzuki, which is sad since thats what it took to make the engine reliable. so where can I find a oil pump rotor? The dealer can get them, somewere I have the SOA numbers for everything. My dealership was being a pain and wouldn't even order them with my good numbers, so I got them from 1stsubaruparts.com. Now when you do the oil pump look at the old shaft and see it it is all grooved, then you NEED to sleeve the housing and even think about drilling a oil groove/port for the shaft. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted June 25, 2008 Author Share Posted June 25, 2008 Now when you do the oil pump look at the old shaft and see it it is all grooved, then you NEED to sleeve the housing and even think about drilling a oil groove/port for the shaft. im confonfuzled what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 Orignally posted by ThreeEyedBandit Now when you do the oil pump look at the old shaft and see it it is all grooved, then you NEED to sleeve the housing and even think about drilling a oil groove/port for the shaft. So this is referring to the problem with the oil pumps. The steel oil pump rotor shaft turns in an aluminum housing. If the softer aluminum wears down too much then you end up with oil pressure issues. Sleeving the housing refers to pressing a bronze/brass bushing into the housing where the rotor shaft goes through. I have heard much talk of this but never heard of anyone actually doing it. Some people think it is unnecessary. If you have precision measuring tools you could measure the shaft bore, or slide the new rotor into the housing and try a feeler gage to measure wear. A machine shop could also do it for you. Some people I have talked to say you should just replace the rotors and keep up on your oil levels/changes. If you have oil pressure problems later though that would be the likely culprit. I don't see why the sleeve wouldn't work...you just want to make sure you have good info before doing the mod. I would like to learn more about it myself, or hear from someone who has done it. So ThreeEyedBandit if you have some experience, dimensions, or tolerances to share that would be very helpful and appreciated. I have a couple extra housing plates I wouldn't mind refurbishing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted July 3, 2008 Author Share Posted July 3, 2008 Ok the car is back together and it even started (fire out the exhaust manifold was kinda cool!)Along the way,sadly its "kitty" died... Im just having a large issue with the front axles.It seems I dont have enough room to get the inner CV over the stubs.So what do I unbolt to have enough clearance to get the axles on? thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted July 3, 2008 Author Share Posted July 3, 2008 I got it together and went for a drive.its like driving a big go cart,although it is underpowered.especially on hills.The engine seems to idle really rough,it thrashes around in the engine bay but as soon as the gas peddle is pressed it becomes very smooth.I think my idle is way low because when it idles it doesnt even seem like its turning 300RPM-although its idle isnt as rough at whatever low idle speed its at.also the car has no power below 2000 RPM,NONE. oh yea,I dont know if its because the engine was sitting for a long time but the CEL was on the whole time I drove it 15 miles home.And the E brake needs to be adjusted in the worse sorta way. but it is kinda a neat vehicle... its the first vehicle ive had that felt like it could do a solom through the lines on the road... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 3, 2008 Share Posted July 3, 2008 what did you end up doing about the engine and oil pump? used engine? leave the oil pump alone? good luck and enjoy the gas mileage! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted July 3, 2008 Author Share Posted July 3, 2008 I checked the oil pump but it seemed to be ok.yea-used engine,just resealed the oil pump,water pump,valve cover(with lots of RTV I might add).Then I changed the timing belt and the alternator belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted July 3, 2008 Share Posted July 3, 2008 Did you do anything to the balance shaft or balance shaft chain? I am curious as to what kind of mileage you get after doing so little to the engine. Please let us know how it is going. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted July 4, 2008 Author Share Posted July 4, 2008 just filled the thing up today.thirsty bugger took $31 bucks to fill up.I will post info on MPG when I refill.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeEyedBandit Posted July 4, 2008 Share Posted July 4, 2008 Is it a FI engine? If so check the wires coming right out of the plug from the disty, usually on the chassis side there is a broken 'crank angle sensor' wire that make the idle rough and throws an CEL. So ThreeEyedBandit if you have some experience, dimensions, or tolerances to share that would be very helpful and appreciated. I have a couple extra housing plates I wouldn't mind refurbishing. I have never done it personally(but have lost three engines two from oil issues, one from to much boost), but a local guy that builds some of the smoothest quietest EF12's I have ever seen does it. Now the only problem is I cant get ahold of him(no phone number), so if I can manage to find him I will get some specs. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted July 4, 2008 Author Share Posted July 4, 2008 the car is carbed... BTW what are the trim levels? I know theres DL,GL, and RS.I know DL is the base model but what options are on the GL and RS? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zyewdall Posted July 4, 2008 Share Posted July 4, 2008 I got it together and went for a drive.its like driving a big go cart,although it is underpowered.especially on hills.......also the car has no power below 2000 RPM,NONE. That's how I described mine too... like a big go-cart. The fuel injected ones (mine) are actually a little more faster than an EA82, but less torque still....gotta keep it above 2,500rpm on the road, and above about 1,500 offroading, or it just bogs.... likes revving up to 4 or 5k fine though. I swear, I've seen bigger engines in some lawn tractors. One of my coworkers said her tenants used to own a Justy, and she made fun of it... but then it kept making up the driveway all winter, unlike lots of other vehicles... Mine has some curious dents and scrapes on the frame rails underneath that imply it was off-roaded pretty hard at some point. The subaru dealer said that they're seeing justy's coming out of the woodwork the last few months. Wonder why that is Z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted July 5, 2008 Author Share Posted July 5, 2008 The justy just F****** siezed.Was driving down the road(actually to napa auto parts to get a oil pressure gauge) and then I heard a bang.then I coasted into a parking spot at napa auto(it died less than 100 yards away).then ateemped to crank it and it wont budge. if anyone wants it come get it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted July 7, 2008 Author Share Posted July 7, 2008 If the engine siezed because of a lack of oil pressure is it possible to rebuild it?Or would everything be destroyed and need a couple thousand in machine work to fix? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 It would be my guess that you are looking at a mechanical failure issue with a connecting rod or piston. You might be able to combine parts from your original engine, and/or just buy new pistons. Since there's only three little ones they aren't terribly expensive. These engines are super simple. My buddy just rebuilt his for around $700 (machining+parts+clutch kit). He disassembled it and reassembled it himself though, so I if you aren't willing to do that it will cost considerably more. However it was the first rebuild he has done and he did not know much about it before he started. It's doable for a novice with patience. Like I said before, get yourself a Factory Service Manual. If you are not willing to really work on the Justy, it's probably not worth keeping. If you rebuild it and maintain it, it will run solid, with good mpg's and push button 4WD for a long time. With a good carbed rebuild you will get 35-40 mpg. That's good but not stellar. A little Toyota, Honda, or Geo can get that or better and have plentiful replacement parts to choose from but no 4WD. A Justy is a committment. If you are not willing to make that committment, it's probably best to pass it along. I hope you rebuild it, but I am Justifiably biased. Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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