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Hey guys I'm new to this site. Kinda new to subaru's. I just picked up a 90 loyal wagon. I use to have a gl hatch before, but that is long gone. Anyways I had a question about my loyal. It is having a power issue I guess. What is happening is when I'm trying to get up to speed it feels like its missing almost. I would say hesitating, but if I floor it it get up fine. I just did plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil change, and cleaned the maf with maf cleaner. If anyone can point me in the right direction I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks guys.

 

Tim

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I would change the fuel filter next, and use a good fuel system cleaner like Chevron Techron with the next fill up. Check your ignition timing too. Change the PCV valve, and clean up the hoses from the valve covers to the PCV. They'll get gunked up with oil residue. Check for vacuum leaks by carefully spraying carb cleaner on and around them, if the idle speed changes, you found the leak. Also, change the oxygen sensor. When you get the new fuel filter, blow through the inlet, then after you get the old one off and drained, blow through it to see if there is a difference in how easy, or hard, it is to blow through. It's a good indication to how glogged it is.

 

Good luck, and welcome to the board.

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In addition to what Frank said, there is another post on this board somewhere that the cure was to replace the maf. I'm getting the same symptoms on my '93 Loyale Wagon and am planning on changing the O2 and maf as a starting place just due to their old age (165k miles).

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Thanks Frank. I already dumped a can of seafoam in the tank right when I got her, I also did the deep creep to the intake. I was going to pick up a O2 sensor today and throw it in. Guess I'll do the fuel filter. Where is it located on these cars? I will also check for a vacuum leak and do the pcv valve.

 

McDave, I am trying to stay away from replacing the maf cause its $200 dollars. But if I have to I guess I will.

 

Thanks again guys.

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But my car isn't having a problem with its idle. But I will look into it anyways. I can really feel it hesitate at like 2k rpm and up. Anything below that it feels fine. I guess, just lacking torque, But I'm used to driving my Iroc so...

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Is yours the auto, Maybe you know this or not but these arent very powerful cars also, especially if you have the auto. a 200hp stock iroc is gonna seem like a supercar to a 89hp subaru.

 

Also guys do some research because if your going to change the pcv valve you really need to go to oem equipment on this one. Will save you headaches in the long run. Just pull the pcv valve off the car and shake it. If it rattles its good. Spray it with some cleaner reguardless if it rattles or not and all should be good in that area. I was kinda in the same boat as you guys on these cars. Just like any chevy or ford, just replace and go. But these are different, sometimes the parts you need to replace are expensive so a good cleaning is all it needs.

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Well...

 

Make positively sure that you put the spark plug wires in firing order...

 

Take the MAF off the intake hose, and clean the two TINY wires with carb cleaner, but be VERY careful not to break the wires.

 

Then check the TPS with a multimeter. Make sure it has proper resistance/continuity specs. The procedure is here somewhere. Look up some of my old posts.

 

Check ALL of your vacuum hoses. Good time to spend $10 and replace them all. You'll thank yourself in the long run, trust me.

 

Do a D-Check. Get any codes it's storing and check those problems out. Again, the procedure is here somewhere.

 

After that, it SHOULD run better... but not no V8 Chevy by any means.

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I have done all those things short of replacing all the vacuum hoses cause I sprayed carb cleaner on them and the car never changed pitch in idle at all. And I didn't check my tps sensor. I was going to ask that earlier but forgot. I know this thing is going to be nothing compared to my chev's but I just want it to run right. Its to nice to not run right. Thanks for all the help so fare you guys.

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A weak fuel pump would likely show up at higher rpms, not midrange.

 

I got to play around today with my Loyale that has the same symptoms. I cleaned the maf and bumped up the tps a bit but I don't think it really helped much. I'll know more in the morning as it's worse when it's cold.

 

I'll be replacing the O2 sensor tomorrow too but I seriously doubt it will help since it acts up more when cold, when the O2 isn't contributing it's input yet.

 

I'm with you and don't want to spend $200 on a maf without being sure, so my next step is to actually ohm the tps while sweeping the throttle open to make sure it doesn't drop out at common off idle or midrange throttle positions.

 

BTW... advancing the timing a bit does help as long as you don't get any pinging. I'm at about 23 degrees and all is well there. (plug in the green connectors by the master cylinder to check the timing)

 

Edit: I just thought of something else. I noticed the tranny would upshift too quickly from 1st to 2nd, which really dogs it down, so I pulled the vacuum hose off the modulator valve (right rear of tranny) and found it full of ATF. That will surely make a difference. Got a MV on order, will know more next week.

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OK so I just checked the tps and its at 1500. And according to the specs on the site here its suppose to be 2.4k. I think I'm going to try and adjust it and see what it does. Might just need to replace the sensor. Kinda funny I just did the same thing to my Iroc a couple months ago.

 

Ok so I just checked the resistance between B and D and its .559 and it says it should be 3.5k to 6.5k. Time for a new sensor. Might have just found the problem.

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OK so a new tps sensor is $400:banghead: Good god. So I guess I have a new question. Where can I get a cheap tps sensor?

 

Junk yard. Lots of good one's to be had - they rarely fail. Although if it wasn't throwing a TPS code with numbers like that.... I'll lay odds it's either your testing method that's broken or your interpretation of the pins, etc. It likely wouldn't run at all with readings such as those and it would surely throw a code.

 

GD

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OK so a new tps sensor is $400:banghead: Good god. So I guess I have a new question. Where can I get a cheap tps sensor?

 

Uh oh. All of a sudden mine isn't running that bad... not bad at all! :-\

 

Junk yard. Lots of good one's to be had - they rarely fail.

 

GD

 

I feel better now. :)

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LOL Ya I guess Junk yards here I come. I just hate getting used parts when I could have a new one. But if the part is close to what I payed for the car forget it.

 

Well - there's just no market for new SPFI TPS sensors. They almost never fail. No one makes them, no one stocks them, and frankly no one really ever sells them either.

 

GD

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Well - there's just no market for new SPFI TPS sensors. They almost never fail. No one makes them, no one stocks them, and frankly no one really ever sells them either.

 

GD

 

So now we're back to air intake leaks, vacuum leaks, or a bad maf as the likely suspects. It's definitely a lean condition since the gas mileage is so great. (almost afraid to fix it)

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I kinda didn't. I cleaned it. And once I found the tps out of spec I'm guessing it has to be that. Which would make sense to me since its not reading right the comp doesn't know where the throttle is at.

 

My bad on the multi post. Site was loading slow.

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I kinda didn't. I cleaned it. And once I found the tps out of spec I'm guessing it has to be that. Which would make sense to me since its not reading right the comp doesn't know where the throttle is at.

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