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EA81 Head gaskets..again?


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Confused with all the hoses etc since the car has every option known to man in 1983:rolleyes: ..needless to say...some wont be going back on.

both wagon and brat are weberized. once you remove all that emissions stuff (and options stuff you will never use), everything is a lot less confusing. EA81's are amazingly simple creatures, thats why i love them. i've had the "EJ IT!" thought bounce around in my head a few times but i'm happy with the reliability/easy maint/repair/performance of my bare bones ea81's.

good luck. once finished you will love your EA LB even more!

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good to hear you're not dumping it, after this reseal you'll love him even more. But I would try to keep as many of those options as you can, you may not use them, but they increase it's value and rarity (especially if they work :rolleyes:)

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Looks fine - just have that bracket brazed back on. New one's are cheap though so maybe not worth the effort. New headgaskets so..... it sure is tempting. Having much work done on a radiator that cost less than $120 generally isn't a wise move. Radiator shops are too expensive at that level and will cost almost as much as new.

 

But a good steam clean (hook your pressure washer to the hot water heater :grin:) and braze that joint (cheap).... I would run it.

 

GD

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Having much work done on a radiator that cost less than $120 generally isn't a wise move. Radiator shops are too expensive at that level and will cost almost as much as new.

 

 

If she is keeping the car as *collectable*, I would say fixing the existing rad is better. The more Original Equipment the better.

 

That is why it is great she is resealing her original engine.

 

Too bad the weber will kill the *stockness* and by extension the collectible value.

 

Connie, when you do the weber, you MUST at least keep the original air cleaner so it *looks* stock.

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Do you guys think this Radiator is salvageable or should I try and find a new one?

 

It's hard to tell from the photo but if that green corrosion in the lower left corner is on the fins too, then it's time to replace it. My radiator guys says his braising won't last long when they come in like that, even after the hot tank. He may have to block off a couple of the worst ones too.

 

Since these car's cooling systems are already marginal and you're doing a cooling related repair job, why take the chance of blowing the gaskets again? I would replace it.

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i understand keeping it stock but (not to be mean) this car isnt going to fetch the same bucks as an all original 57 Chevy. I say upgrade the cooling system. Maybe go 2inch rad if u can squeeze it in there, new water pump. Keep the engine nice and cool and it will be happy and less worrysome on your part. Nice cooling temps for lots of crusin. But thats just me.

 

Ben

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I would buy a new aftermarket radiator for it if they are available.

 

It looks like it is almost ready to come out. 4 bolts bellhousing to trans, unbolt the motor mounts.

 

Then jack up under the trans till the motor mounts clear the crossmember. Slide it forward and lift it out. With one person on each side it is easy to lift it out.

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Its seperated from the bellhousing..and ready to come out...waiting for husband to finish mowing the lawn ..and then going to try and pluck it out..

 

BTW..this has not been a fun adventure so far...:mad::-p

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Also connie just remember if you get stuck, this is not your daily driver and your not up u know what creek. Plenty of people on here and willing to make the journey to help you. Since youve got it out why not do a whole reseal job but again thats just me. I noticed alitle oil on your valve covers. Woudlnt be a bad time to do some maintence on the old girl with the heart out. Be patient itll be fine.

 

Ben

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Ben..it was already planned to do a complete reseal..it leaks like crazy..

 

But I have to say one thing... ITS SO NICE WORKING ON SOMETHING THAT ISNT RUSTY!!:banana::banana::banana:

 

I didnt have to break out the impact gun or the air tools once...Just my trusty 18inch breakerbar.

I am going to need help getting it back in and running..but thats not going to happen right away cause I am waiting on my loaned out Weber set up to come back and thats in no hurry..my "Lil Bro" needs his Brat to run daily ..so until his weber is ready..he is using mine.

 

I dont even think all the gaskets will be here till next thursday..

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I already have the hitachi manifold..and adaptor..and weber..its just being barrowed right now. This is whats going on LB once the punk who is barrowing it is done;)

 

Jess001.jpg

 

 

I was having issues moving the power steering pump out of the way..drew blood a few times...and kept finding more and more hoses that needed disconnected...Easy my big fat rear:lol: .. The night mare is going to be getting it back in and running... I did discover the ditsy was loose and the rear main is blown..( oil in bell houseing)

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The problem is that you are missing the EGR pipe going from the passenger side head to the manifold (the copper one) and the carter/weber one is different..... at least I think it is...... Someone has one laying around I'm sure. I have one somewhere if you can't get one from a local.

 

Also you will need the 1-3/4" filter as the 2-1/2" unit you have is too large to clear the hood properly. It will close, but the filter with be jammed against the hood in a not-cool way.

 

GD

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GD..the copper pipe is still on the pass side head..it was easier to take it off the manifold..

 

Since its emmissions exempt..I plan on doing away with all this EGR crap...too much confusion for this clueless idiot

 

Also already have the smaller filter...like I stated..my Weber is in use on Psykos Brat right now..while his unit gets rebuilt and stuff

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I would get rid of the EGR with the weber.

 

Why? The Weber is fully capable of utilizing EGR and it has no drawbacks as far as the EA81 is concerned. In fact it lowers exhaust temps which help to prevent exhaust valve burning, and it lowers emissions in a pretty significant way.

 

Connie - trust me. Leave the EGR.

 

GD

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GD..the copper pipe is still on the pass side head..it was easier to take it off the manifold..

 

I know - I see it in the pic. I beleive the carter/weber pipe is different. Correct me if it isn't, but it looks like it.

 

Also it's generally easier to take them loose at the head. That way the manifold doesn't have to slide sideways to come off. Just straight up.

 

Since its emmissions exempt..I plan on doing away with all this EGR crap...too much confusion for this clueless idiot

 

No - you really do want it. It's just one vacuum line from the front of the Weber to the valve. That's it. And you watch the valve to be sure it opens with increased throttle.

 

GD

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I know - I see it in the pic. I beleive the carter/weber pipe is different. Correct me if it isn't, but it looks like it.

 

 

 

GD

 

I did the carter-weber to hitachi swap. I dont remember there being any difference in the EGR hard line going to the passenger head. I had both manifolds side by side.

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Steve..you are gonna help me get the Weber set up hooked up and tuned once Briggers is done with it right??

 

BTW I know I cursed your name once ..or maybe twice yesterday:-p;) Had to do with the power steering pump:grin:

 

I ordered new front and rear main seals today...I hope they are here by Thursday when the rest of the parts are supposed to ... I think I am also taking BWB up on the offer of another Flywheel..already resurfaced...this one doesnt look like it was done when the new clutch was installed.

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