Indrid cold Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 In process of putting 5 spd. into my Brat. (Have Bratsrus1 tranny kit in hand.) The question: Can I use the 2-piece drive line from my 88 Wagon that I got the tranny out of in place of the one-piece drive line from Brat? The story: I took the drive line to the drive line people and they said my U-Joints are wore out and they should be replaced as they won't be able to spin balance with these U-joints.... I wiggled them... seemed o.k., but hey.. their the specialists... any way $300. to extend and put in new U-joints???? The drive line guy wasn't there, (this was the front counter people) but they think the extra 9 inch or so is too much distance blaa, blaa, blaaa.. any way.. even if they do that they want new U-joints... so $300. Can I use the 88 wagon drive line and have the last section shortened to fit? ... I will probably have to make some kind of mounting plate for that center knuckle support? My thinking is the U-joints will be in better shape... also noticed the second section (Differential side) is smaller tube and will have too make sure diff. plate is same hole dimmension or use one from Brat ... any way... I am thinking 88' set up may be the cheapest way if do-able.. but also will pay the $300. if that is what it takes... your thoughts? Update: I talked to the drive line guy and he got me a new everything for $220. I opted for the single shaft simply because I am running out of time +simpler. The two axle reply's were well stated and was really leaning that way so great to know that is an option but just easier to have it ready to pick up and install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reveeen Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 I've posted this before, and I will post it again: http://www.rockforddriveline.com/replacem.htm Charts/instructions. If you do not wish to wait NAPA sells these things in a NAPA box for a small up-charge. Driveline(s) stuff has always been a mystery to me. The biggest mystery being the amounts of money they seem to want for the simplest task. I will leave the overall length adjustment required thing to someone that knows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pooparu Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 I paid $100 to have this one made for my Hatch from Portland Driveline. It's all new with new u-joints. Contact them and see what they can do for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chef_tim Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 I didn't have new U-joints put in but to add the 9" was well under a C-note. I say shop around a bit. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 You can certainly use the original two piece driveline if you wish. Only difficulty is the center bearing carrier will not bolt in and you'll have to fab some way of doing that. When I installed mine with Jerry's help we originally installed it that way but decided to go with the one piece version later since there wasn't enough good metal to really secure the center bearing carrier. Jerry had a driveline made for me at a shop near Yakima. I don't remember what it cost, but it was definitely not $300....more like $125 or less. Came with zerks fittings which I prefer over permanently sealed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subyrally Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 that reminds me, i really need to get a one peice shaft for the 5spd swap i have planned, the local shop that i talked to wants about $250-$300 to make a 3" diameter shaft with replaceable joints for the swap. granted, its cheaper than anything from the dealer, its still a bit more than id like to pay. anyone have any idea of what shipping might run to get a drive shaft shipped from oregon to maryland? i am sure that it bveing shipped from a business will make a huge difference, but im sure its still not cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 I got my one piece made at Drivelines NW, in SoDo Seattle. Cost about $200 and looks a lot uglier after being in service for so long. I would go with the one piece driveshaft. It's just money anyway, and you won't be worried about having a ghetto-fabbed driveshaft bearing mount fail at 70+mph on the highway or in the middle of the largest mud pit at your local trail. Cheap insurance if you ask me, and since you did (hahaha) the shop Pooparu got his done at sounds like a screaming deal; go there! Lastly, I forget the exact number, but if you search for threads about 5 speed swaps, you will find the exact length you need to have the shaft lengthened by, something like 5 1/4". I don't remember exactly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pooparu Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 Just to be on the save side I installed my transmission, and then installed the driveline in the transmission. That way I could measure exactly how much more I needed, 'cause you don't want to pay for 2 custom drivelines. That's what I would suggest doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubPar Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 but they think the extra 9 inch or so is too much distance Most men willl tell you this. Sometimes it is true, sometimes it isn't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 I have the two peice in my Brat. Just build some little brackets for the center carrier bearing. Took me like an hour and cost me nothing. The carrier mounts are not load bearing - they support the weight of the driveline and that's all. 14 gauge sheet metal works just fine. You bend some small brackets in your bench vise, pull the carpet back and either bolt them or weld them to the pan. The two-peice has benefits: 1. less vibration potential as the center carrier is a CV joint. Mounting of the carrier is not critical - just as long as it's reasonably straight. 2. Off-the-shelf. I can get a replacement front or rear section for peanuts at literally any yard, and it's a stock Subaru part if I had to order one for whatever reason. 3. Higher ground clearance. 4. A longer single-peice will actually lower the Brat's stock driveline ground clearance as the additional length makes it stick down more in the rear. Except for hatchbacks (where you HAVE to do a custom driveline due to wheelbase), there's no reason to have custom single-peice drivelines made up. The stock two-peice is arguably better in every way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratsrus1 Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 Hi This is Jerry, on the 5 speed swap the drive line is 51 inches of tubing and for the hatch back it is 48 inches of tubing. That's not counting the ends just tubing that way you get a drive line to fit the first time. Oh BTW this is in the EA81 cars Thanks Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subyrally Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 i thuoght that the 5spd trans was longer than the 4spd, thus requiring a shorter shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 The stock two-peice is arguably better in every way.Unless you have the beginning of rust in the area where you'd like to have the carrier. But your other points are excellent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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