[HTi]Johnson Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 So, I took one apart, to see what exactly it is they rebuild. I couldn't figure it out. Here's what they look like completely dismantled, minus the second thing from the left, it has a little ball and a spring in it. So, I'm going to do this to eight of them, clean them out and put them in my RX that is clackin' like none other (new oil pump, wix filter, and good pressure on an aftermarket gauge). Then I'm going to take the noisy ones apart and see if there is something noticeably wrong with them. I'm surprised that's all they are. What do they rebuild on these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reveeen Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 What do they rebuild on these? Parts cleaned and checked, likely the spring replaced. I would clean with carb cleaner and check clearances, look for burrs, I can't help you with the spring, having no idea what the value should be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 So I started to take more apart, I found out that I have two different types of lifters... Then I took apart the "weird" one on the left...looks like this... If you look at the first pic in the first post, you'll see the difference. Here's how the lifter goes together. As I was taking it apart, the small part next to the spring would be stuck, compressed, at the bottom of the casing, it took some repetitive compressing to get it to come back up. Could this be the problem? I was thinking of finding new springs for them, but I have no clue on how to go about this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 They get dirty, and they get worn. The seats for the check valve get beat up in them, etc. It's stuff you have to measure to see - just looking at them you won't see anything wrong. They are highly precise little machines and it takes only a little bit of grit or a slightly large clearance to make them leak. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 So, how do they rebuild them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 get them working all in a similar feel and fashion and i'd bet they'll be fine. i've done the same thing before...MAN is that annoying too! and yes i've seen the different kinds as well - although i've never seen two different kinds in the same engine? i'd guess someone has been in there before. any seized parts probably were your issue...at least from the few experiences i've had. i've torn down motors that i knew which cylinders had noisey HLA's - to find them seized. but i haven't seen it that often either so there are plenty of failure modes and wearing styles i'm not familiar with either. personally there's enough HLA's out there that i'd be tempted to replace any that aren't in decent shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Johnson']So' date=' how do they rebuild them?[/quote'] Regrind the crown on the camshaft mating surface. Thorough cleaning. Leakdown test. Some of your pistons look a little varnished up-may or may not be your problem.Make sure they move freely once all oil is removed. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McDave Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Regrind the crown on the camshaft mating surface. I just went through this with Mizpah. A couple of the lifters they sent me had a significant part of the tip ground off flat. Enough to where the cam followers probably would have made mincemeat out of the lifters in short order due to the loss of the hardened surface. When I called them up, John stated emphatically "We do not grind lifters". His conclusion was someone else had and they, Mizpah, had missed it on inspection. He's sending a couple more and told me to throw the others away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chef_tim Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Just for comparison purposes, this is an EA81 lifter I took apart a couple of years ago.... tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reveeen Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Thorough cleaning. This is why a couple of thousand miles on ATF seems to "fix" these things. I do not recommend running ATF, but might try it if I felt I had nothing to be lost, I pretty sure it will leak oil after an ATF run, the cleaning action is not selective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Regrind the crown on the camshaft mating surface. These are just HLAs (hydraulic lash adjusters), not *lifters*. They do not ride on a camshaft, they sit stationary in the head, and support one end of the cam followers, which DO ride on the cam. None are pictured or being discussed here. Which begs the question, how often is slack in the EA82 valve train caused by worn faces on the followers, requiring more *lift*(height and tension) from he HLAs ???? I wonder :-\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted July 13, 2008 Author Share Posted July 13, 2008 OK, an update. I took eight of them apart, cleaned them, put them back together and just put them in my car. The tick is pretty much gone. Comes around when it's cold, but not even close to how bad it used to be. So, I found that they get stuck due to build up of gunk on the walls of the main body, the ridge of gunk slowly moves down and the "seizes" the spring retainer cup. Anyone can take these things apart but if you want, shoot me a PM, I can do it for ya. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 13, 2008 Share Posted July 13, 2008 How did you restake the *cap*??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted July 14, 2008 Author Share Posted July 14, 2008 Johnson']OK' date=' an update. I took eight of them apart, cleaned them, put them back together and just put them in my car. The tick is pretty much gone. Comes around when it's cold, but not even close to how bad it used to be. So, I found that they get stuck due to build up of gunk on the walls of the main body, the ridge of gunk slowly moves down and the "seizes" the spring retainer cup. Anyone can take these things apart but if you want, shoot me a PM, I can do it for ya.[/quote'] Spoke too soon. The tick came back...it comes and goes now. Not as consistant or annoying though. How did you restake the *cap*??? Just bent them in a little and forced it back over the ridge. They're nice in tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 Johnson']Spoke too soon. The tick came back...it comes and goes now. Not as consistant or annoying though. Just bent them in a little and forced it back over the ridge. They're nice in tight. Cool. So, when you reassembled them, did you do the pump up immersed in oil? If so, how much could you push them in by hand while pumping? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted July 14, 2008 Author Share Posted July 14, 2008 Cool. So, when you reassembled them, did you do the pump up immersed in oil? If so, how much could you push them in by hand while pumping? I pre-lubed them before I put them back together and pumped them up while in oil...weird thing is, they still had full movement. But they work in the car, I'm assuming the intermittent tick is from the Fram filter I put on there to run some cheap oil to, hopefully, clean the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 Cool. So, when you reassembled them, did you do the pump up immersed in oil? If so, how much could you push them in by hand while pumping? I just replaced all 8 lifters with rebuilt ones from Mizpah. I pumped them at least 20 times and they still had full movement. When I put them in the head I made sure the oil hole was pointing up. Not sure if that'll make a difference or not. I'm waiting on a Tbelt kit, then I can start it and see it still ticks or not. -Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted July 15, 2008 Author Share Posted July 15, 2008 ... When I put them in the head I made sure the oil hole was pointing up. Not sure if that'll make a difference or not. -Dave By the looks of it, I think they spin around through time. Let me know if your ticks goes away. And how much for your rebuilt lifters? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 yea, they'll probably spin around eventually. http://www.mizpahprecision.com/ $6 each for theirs, or $4.50 to rebuild yours. I put a new oil pump in 6 months ago, and the tick got better, but still comes and goes. Tried ATF/seafoam/MMO, frequent oil changes, etc, and nothing seemed to help Tbelt kit should get here tomorrow, so I'll hopefully know shortly after that if it still ticks. -Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McDave Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 Johnson']By the looks of it' date=' I think they spin around through time. Let me know if your ticks goes away. And how much for your rebuilt lifters?[/quote'] It doesn't matter which way the lifters are turned. The oil feed channel in the head runs between the lifters and that wide groove in the lifter body just below the lifter feed hole allows the oil to surround the lifter, so it's getting oil no matter which way it's pointed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 The oil feed channel in the head runs between the lifters and that wide groove in the lifter body just below the lifter feed hole allows the oil to surround the lifter, so it's getting oil no matter which way it's pointed. True, but I personally believe that orienting the holes upward helps keep air bubbles from forming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 Johnson']By the looks of it' date=' I think they spin around through time. Let me know if your ticks goes away. And how much for your rebuilt lifters?[/quote'] Got everything put back together today. Primed the oil pump with a drill. On first start up, no ticking! It's ran for maybe 20 minutes in the driveway while setting the timing, burping coolant, etc, and so far so good. Also put a new clutch cable in it. Amazing how much easier it is to push the clutch in now. It made sense to me to orient the holes upwards to assist getting air out, even if for only the first start up. After that all the air should be out, so it should be fine. -Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted July 17, 2008 Author Share Posted July 17, 2008 I think I have bigger problems. I replaced the oil and filter...when I drained the oil, it looked like a little bit of water came out first...popped HG or crack somewhere. Damn it. The tick went away for a while, but came back, I'm tempted to drain the oil again, in a clear container and see if water seperates in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
![[HTi]Johnson](https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/uploads/profile/photo-thumb-2784.jpg)
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now