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looking to buy a new suby... any advice?


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Hey all, I'm currently running a 95 Legacy LS sedan. I'm looking to upgrade to a newer model. Anyone have any tips/advice on certain years or models to avoid, or specific things to look for?

 

Also, I found a Legacy GT for sale online, its a 2003 with 110k miles for $12.5k. I like the price but dont like the high mileage. For a Suby though, its not that high, but is it worth buying such a young car with so many miles?

 

Any advice/input would be appreciated!

Thanks!

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Keep looking. That is too much $$$ for a car with those miles. I bought an 02 Outback wagon LLB with an H6 with 69K for 11K. I think you can get a brand new forester for 19-20K.

 

 

 

Hey all, I'm currently running a 95 Legacy LS sedan. I'm looking to upgrade to a newer model. Anyone have any tips/advice on certain years or models to avoid, or specific things to look for?

 

Also, I found a Legacy GT for sale online, its a 2003 with 110k miles for $12.5k. I like the price but dont like the high mileage. For a Suby though, its not that high, but is it worth buying such a young car with so many miles?

 

Any advice/input would be appreciated!

Thanks!

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keep in mind that unlike your 95 Legacy, newer Subaru's have interference engines. if the timing belt breaks you will incur major internal engine damage and high repair/replacement costs. that being said - you can not skip or go cheap on timing belt intervals. i would plan on replacing the timing belt as soon as you get it unless you can document a recent replacement - they are 105,000 mile replacement items on most subaru's. the 6 cylinder H6 has a timing chain, so disregard that if you get one of those. all the others have belts though. that's a $500-$1,000 repair depending where and what all you have done (more than likely at least one timing pulley and the water pump should be replaced at the same time in my opinion).

 

head gasket, piston slap, and torque bind. search for all of those terms in the new generation forum here and be on the look out for them as you look at various models. these are significant things to be aware of that you should be aware of when searching. you need to know what they are and how to look for them. tons of information is already on the board here and on the internet. there's "Search" button up top - go to advanced search and select the "New Generation" forum and read up on these items.

 

expand your market as much as possible, i've flown and driven a car home to get a good deal. well worth it to get the best deal - financially and mechanical condition (one owner private sales are the best). dealers know nothing about the car and charge a premium. that's unnecessary for such a new car, there's hardly any service or inspection that a 2000+ subaru needs - particularly in the price range you're talking about. next time i'm tempted to buy something from florida and drive it home - far away from the rust belt!

 

so in this case, the known maintenance of a one owner private seller is almost always better than the unknown history and zero benefit "checkup" they claim they do. which they do - but is unecessary on a such a new vehicle.

 

i agree - that seems really high in price.

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I was thinking of upgrading my '95 as well... until my mechanic talked me out of it for the following reasons:

 

1. Non-interference engine

2. Easy emissions inspection requirements relative to even a '96 or '97 (at least here in PA)--since it's a '95, basically if the gas cap works right and there's no check engine light, it passes.

3. This is perhaps the most compelling argument: I've had it for 4 years, have been super-attentive in the maintenance department, and the worst that's ever happened was bad water pump at 92K other than routine maintenance (brake pads, plugs, tires, etc.) There's a lot of merit to the argument that it's better to have an older car that you "know" and has been taken care of right than to gamble on a slightly newer used car that you have no idea about

 

Subarus are tough, but I've always felt they require just a little specialized knowledge to be maintained properly, compared to a Toyota or Honda. Things like: you can't replace just one or two tires if you want your AWD to remain functional, the proper way to change coolant and eliminate air bubbles to keep so you don't blow a head gasket, and which parts you can get away with aftermarket and which you can't.

 

I'd love to have a newer car, but as long as my '95 faithfully serves me, I'll keep it. Not to mention I can't afford car payments!

 

I agree with the others, the seller is dreaming if they think an '03 with that many miles is worth $12,500! If you're having trouble with your '95 or really want a new car and can afford it, take your time if at all possible. Drive a bunch (I drove 8 different cars before I settled on mine) to see what you like and what you don't. Case in point: my brother thought he wanted a Forester, drove one, and hated it. He loves his 99 Outback Sport.

 

If you're seriously considering a particular car, take it to a mechanic you know and trust (preferably one who's familiar with Subies) to thoroughly look it over. It's definitely worth even $40 or $50 to do this. Drive it in tight figure eights in a parking lot to make sure it doesn't have torque bind too. Good luck and keep us posted!

 

Brian

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I just bought a 2008 OB 2.5i automatic with 22K miles that had been a rental car for $18,000. Clean as a whistle. All Subaru warranties remain from date first brought into service. In my case that means I have another 14K miles and 15 months of the 3yr/36K mile bumper to bumper warranty and the same 5yr/60K mile warranty from date of introduction to use.

This thing has enough bells and whistles to be its own band.

The warnings about timing belts and other maintenance on a high mileage car should be calculated into your purchase price.

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I am with the others..the price is way too high with those kind of miles.. I bought my 08 Impreza 5 door right off the showroom floor ( ok I had to order it at the time..they were too new on the market) with some xtras for $19K..and no miles.

 

You can definately do much better

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I was thinking of upgrading my '95 as well... until my mechanic talked me out of it for the following reasons:

 

 

Subarus are tough, but I've always felt they require just a little specialized knowledge to be maintained properly, compared to a Toyota or Honda. Things like: you can't replace just one or two tires if you want your AWD to remain functional, the proper way to change coolant and eliminate air bubbles to keep so you don't blow a head gasket, and which parts you can get away with aftermarket and which you can't.

 

Brian

 

Any AWD vehical has the tire issues, and they always have, ever since audi made its fulltime awd quattro (before that subarus were good old fashined 4wd).

 

The coolant thing is over blown. If you just add coolant the way they taught people how to do it for the last 50 years or so there is no issue. There are other cars out there that have the cooling system "issue" that really just comes down to procedure.

 

The only truth is that they are fussy about some aftermarket parts, because the aftermarket parts in question are made cheaply. They arent the only car outh there that are picky.

 

nipper

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Hey all, I'm currently running a 95 Legacy LS sedan. I'm looking to upgrade to a newer model. Anyone have any tips/advice on certain years or models to avoid, or specific things to look for?

 

Also, I found a Legacy GT for sale online, its a 2003 with 110k miles for $12.5k. I like the price but dont like the high mileage. For a Suby though, its not that high, but is it worth buying such a young car with so many miles?

 

Any advice/input would be appreciated!

Thanks!

 

Since no one has really answered you, there are a few things to be aware of.

 

Inspect the coolant in the radiator. Dont go soley by the over flow tank (as no one cleans those nor flushes them). Look for contamination.

 

Always take a sooby to a parking lot (or any awd vehical) and do figure 8's. The car should do it smoothly with little or no throttle. With TB or mis matched tires, the car will struggle and lurch, and may even stall. If its an auto, check the FWD fuse holder to make sure there is no fuse in it.

 

Make sure all the tires match.

 

Tmoing belts are every 106,000 miles.

 

And yes that car is over priced.

 

good luck.

 

nipper

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your best bet now, since you're getting into gray area (the first one was black and white!), is to look nationwide on ebay and autotrader. that will give you an idea of what the cars are actually selling or listed for elsewhere. you can even narrow that down to the northeast if you so desire. expect to pay more if you're wanting to stay local and close, but that will give you a good idea of what to pay. i do that all the time. i don't put much stock in them, but hitting up the online pricicing places isn't bad either, only takes a second. you just need a general idea to filter things through.

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Thanks all! Guess that one's a no-go. How about an '03 Legacy Special Edition Sedan with 51K for a little over $11k?

If you really want to spend money look for a Legecy Outback 4 door sedan w/ an H6. Made for new england, beautiful car, fairly rare big bucks.

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