njvitek Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 I have a 99 Outback. Whenever I make slow, sharp turns (i.e. into a parking space or a u-turn) the car rumbles and shakes like I have a flat tire. No problems when driving or normal turns. This happens on both the left and right. I took it to a shop and they said the stabilizers and bearings are fine. Any ideas? All wheels are the same model and have only about 10K on them. This a manual transmission car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 Sounds like you may have the viscous coupling in the trans locking up. Make sure all tires have the same pressure. Try it in reverse, is it the same? Did they check the CV Joints? Look for torn boots Check the Differential Gear Oil, front and rear If that all checks out, you may want to pull the 4 bolts at the rear drive shaft to differential coupling and see if the problems goes away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 yeah - sounds like you have torque bind. if you attend to it now - you might get rid of it and avoid a transmission repair. i'd search for "torque bind" on the new generation forum here and read up about it a bit - that's probably what you have. it's caused by mismatched tires or improper towing. there's a small chance it's CV related, but i doubt it. any history of CV axle or boot issues/replacement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njvitek Posted July 7, 2008 Author Share Posted July 7, 2008 If I replace all four tires and change the fluid - will that cause the problem to go away, or is it a situation that once it appears the damage is already done? Also, what would it cost to get it fixed? Thanks all for your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOthis Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 automatic or manual trans?....sometimes it is possible for it to "repair" its self (mostly in automatics i believe) with repeated flushes or changes of the transmission fluid and using an additive/conditioner do a search on the forum or take a look down at the bottom for the "related threads" on this topic....there is tons of info out there..... by the way welcome to the forum.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 All AWD soobies: Tires must be equally worn Tires should be properly infalted Tires should all match. If they are all ok On automatics: Transmission flush On Manual: Nothing else to do. It sounds like your at a stage where a fluid change or proper tires will correct it. Manuals are 1200.00 repair, automatics 800-900 if you take it to a dealer (less if its just a bad solenoid). I always say go with a dealer on this one as a tranny shop will try to sell you a tranny when you dont need it. Welcome to the board. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etc Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Thanks for the tip. Question, how many flushes do you recommend? And how many quarts do you estimate I will need? I want to get Redline 75W-90NS. This is on 1998 Subaru Legacy with 2.2L, auto, 147K miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Thanks for the tip. Question, how many flushes do you recommend? And how many quarts do you estimate I will need? I want to get Redline 75W-90NS. This is on 1998 Subaru Legacy with 2.2L, auto, 147K miles. When I did Blu I got a case of transmission fluid. I also had a smart system. Drain the tranny fluid into a plastic drain thingy. They actually have measured marks on the side of them so you know how much came out. Put back in the 3-4 qts ish, and put the old fluid back into those empty 3 qts. Start the car and go around the block, or put the car through all the gears and count to 5, then move onto the next gear. Do this through P-R-N-D-3-2-1-2-3-D-N-R-P. Drain and replace fluid, then repeat. I dont even know what I used to tell you the truth. Its the same thing Ive been using for ages, in the same mom and pop store. I just grab the case, pay for it and go nipper PS my biggest fight was getting the dipstick out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 I want to get Redline 75W-90NS. This is on 1998 Subaru Legacy with 2.2L, auto, 147K miles. Wait! Whoa! STOP! Redline 75W-90ns is gear oil--it's for manual transmissions. You have an automatic, you need ATF--automatic transmission fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etc Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 I have 150K miles on my 98 Legacy L with torque bind. I just want to make it last to about 170K miles. I am thinking about putting the fuse in to stop this. But since I don't know anything about maintenance history, tranny fluid should be changed anyway. I smelled and it didn't seem to smell burnt. At this time, I only plan 1 drain and see if it changes anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 I have 150K miles on my 98 Legacy L with torque bind. I just want to make it last to about 170K miles. I am thinking about putting the fuse in to stop this. But since I don't know anything about maintenance history, tranny fluid should be changed anyway. I smelled and it didn't seem to smell burnt. At this time, I only plan 1 drain and see if it changes anything. Do a complete one. as 1 may not tell you anything. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etc Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Wait! Whoa! STOP! Redline 75W-90ns is gear oil--it's for manual transmissions. You have an automatic, you need ATF--automatic transmission fluid. Got it.... which ATF do you recommend? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etc Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Do a complete one. as 1 may not tell you anything. nipper I have access to the rack tomorrow only. How about 2 cycles? Can I do 2 cycles in one shot? I presume that means I need 8 qts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 TskTskTsk do all 4. I got a year out of my clutch pack by doing that, so i recomend it. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etc Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 So I need a case, that is, 12 quarts? I only want this Legacy to last about a year or two at most (it's too base for me, not even a tach on the L model) but I don't want it to fail tomorrow. From my experience, AT is the weakest point and I believe 30K is when tranny fluid should be changed, ideally. Where do I get the ATF fluid? Walmart? NAPA? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Any name brand on sale. My tranny is at 250000 miles, but at 180 the AWD unit was rebuilt. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etc Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Like Dexron III? Where, Walmart? Or Advance Auto Parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Manuals are 1200.00 repair, automatics 800-900 if you take it to a dealer (less if its just a bad solenoid). I always say go with a dealer on this one as a tranny shop will try to sell you a tranny when you dont need it. Wow, I only charge $350 to replace clutches and solenoid in an Auto. $500 to change the VC center diff on a manual because the part is more expensive and the tranny disassemble is a bit more involved. I find if I charge more, people just decide to not fix it and get a new car or live with it. Then I get no work. I'd rather work cheap than have no work at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 I just had the same issue with a 99 outback and a tranny flush did not fix the problem. I ended up replacing the transmision as I was able to get oe from a board member. The transmission works great and the girl that bought the car from me just loves it. If you want to go that way, I have recently picked up a rebuilt 5spd tranny out of an outback and I can sell it to you and if you want to come down to Richmond We can install it one weekend. Let me know. I have a 99 Outback. Whenever I make slow, sharp turns (i.e. into a parking space or a u-turn) the car rumbles and shakes like I have a flat tire. No problems when driving or normal turns. This happens on both the left and right. I took it to a shop and they said the stabilizers and bearings are fine. Any ideas? All wheels are the same model and have only about 10K on them. This a manual transmission car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Basically< dextron is all manufactured to the same standards. Just go to Walmart or advance and get their brand. I am willing to bet that it will not fix the problem. If you want to drive down to richmond one weekend we can fix the problem correctly for next to nothing, but your time and a little of money for my help. I just did this for a friend of mine and when he drove away the torque bind was completely gone, but I actually took the rear housing off and fixed the actual cause of the torque bind so that it won't come back in a few months. By the way, is your AT TEMP light blinking. If it is, then you most likely need to have the Duty C soleniod replaced. Count the blinks and if they total 13 then that solenoid is fried and the tranny is in lock up mode. No flush in the world is going to fix that. PM me if you want more info on the fix for your automatic tranny. Mike Like Dexron III? Where, Walmart? Or Advance Auto Parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etc Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Basically< dextron is all manufactured to the same standards. Just go to Walmart or advance and get their brand. I am willing to bet that it will not fix the problem. If you want to drive down to richmond one weekend we can fix the problem correctly for next to nothing, but your time and a little of money for my help. I just did this for a friend of mine and when he drove away the torque bind was completely gone, but I actually took the rear housing off and fixed the actual cause of the torque bind so that it won't come back in a few months. By the way, is your AT TEMP light blinking. If it is, then you most likely need to have the Duty C soleniod replaced. Count the blinks and if they total 13 then that solenoid is fried and the tranny is in lock up mode. No flush in the world is going to fix that. PM me if you want more info on the fix for your automatic tranny. Mike Mike, Nothing is blinking. I scanned the codes and got some engine related codes but not this. Thahks for the offer. Just to be clear, this is AT, not MT. Sure I can visit Richmond VA, one of these days. What do you think this repair entails? Sending you PM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Mike, Nothing is blinking. I scanned the codes and got some engine related codes but not this. Thahks for the offer. Just to be clear, this is AT, not MT. Sure I can visit Richmond VA, one of these days. What do you think this repair entails? Sending you PM. OBDII has nothing at all to do with the transmission codes. nada zip zilch zero There si another method for getting those codes, involving a chicken, a alter, pointing to indiana, and chanting several times. That and grounding out a pin in the harness. If you dont have a tranny light flashing at startup, then your solenoid is fine. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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