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So my '89 EA82 5spd 2wd sedan now has a d/r 5spd in it and is sitting waiting for a motor. I've got an EJ22 wiring harness basically stripped down (needs a couple more hours of work). I have the EJ22 AND the adapter plate as well. But I've bailed on the EJ22 idea for now.

 

I've decided that it would be more efficient and quicker to use the already existing y-pipe, wiring, and intake to power the car. I'm also tight on time and can honestly say even if I got the EJ22 in and wired up it would probably be a long time before I got it running. Getting exhaust made for it would also be well out of my budget. I'm definitely not going EA82... they leak WAY too much. So my next best bet is the EA81.

 

So how much of a power loss am I looking at? A few less HP is fine with me but I DO want to make a little more low end torque than I did with the EA82. It will primarily be used for camping trips, a backup vehicle, and towing a small trailer (couches, tables, light stuff). Will the EA81 dissapoint?

 

I bailed on the EJ22 because I'm short on time and everybody wants it out of the driveway and I'm assuming it would be faster to install an engine that can run off of already existing components with minimal adaptation and maybe do the EJ22 swap later on down the road.

 

And NO "just stick another EA82 in it" comments because I'm sick of those engines. And while I would love to put some EA71 pistons in an EA81 block (higher compression) I'm not going to do anything that involves removing the heads because my last headgasket job only lasted 10,000 miles.

 

Opinions?

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if you're really against the EA82 the EA81 should do just fine. if you have much mountain driving and steep grades to climb, that might really hamper the EA81.

then again - just keep it up in the higher rpm range!

 

exhaust work does suck. i guess the EJ manifolds don't line up to the EA stuff? i have both lying around and they look rather close, but i've never compared.

 

good luck and have fun

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Would you be keeping the SPFI system from the EA82? I think there's some disty swap stuff you need to do to put it on the EA81. Other than that, it sounds doable. It'll be a dog on the highway, but in my experience, the low end torque from the EA81 is no worse than the EA82 (it's a lighter car too though... not sure how that affects the seat of the pants feel)

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you say ea82s leak too much. as far as the exhaust, I spun my flanges 90 degrees and made my own gaskets out of diesel gasket manifold material and copper coated them and everything held up just fine

 

I say stick with EA82s. much higher RPM engines. I was never impressed with the power EA81's made (owned 2 brats, sold them within the first 2 weeks of owning both of them)

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Would you be keeping the SPFI system from the EA82?

 

Yes.

 

It'll be a dog on the highway, but in my experience, the low end torque from the EA81 is no worse than the EA82 (it's a lighter car too though... not sure how that affects the seat of the pants feel)

 

Ok that does bother me because it will be seeing quite a bit of highway. I like to go camping in Nantahala, Chatahoochee, Cherokee and all 3 of those parks are a good distance from here. I may go ahead and do the EJ22 swap. I know I will be happiest with it.

 

you say ea82s leak too much. as far as the exhaust, I spun my flanges 90 degrees and made my own gasket out of a diesel gasket manifold material and copper coated them and everything held up just fine

 

I mean they leak too much oil. I liked the power and sound... but even after a reseal 10,000 miles later it was dripping again. Not a big fan of oil stains. I understand it's nothing serious, but I just don't like leaky engines.

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I may go ahead and do the EJ22 swap. I know I will be happiest with it.

 

Yes, that is the *best* option and you WILL be happy if you do it.

 

 

I mean they leak too much oil. I liked the power and sound... but even after a reseal 10,000 miles later it was dripping again. Not a big fan of oil stains. I understand it's nothing serious, but I just don't like leaky engines.

 

No offense, but perhaps you didn't do the best job or use the best parts??? Un-reinforced Cam case o-rings? Cheap Cam end seals? Wrong sealant for cam case?

 

I've put 25k on my GL Turbo Wagon since i slapped the motor toghether, and it isn't leaking at all. Just starting to get some "seepage" around the lower par of the valve covers, but not drips and certainly no oil stains on my driveway.

 

I may try a trick and ol'timer turned me onto, using a bent *spring* washer between the bolt head and the rubber grommet for the valve cover bolts. He say's it prevents ALOT of leakage issues for EA82s.

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I may try a trick and ol'timer turned me onto, using a bent *spring* washer between the bolt head and the rubber grommet for the valve cover bolts. He say's it prevents ALOT of leakage issues for EA82s.

 

That's an interesting tip. I've got a set of those high dollar OEM grommets that I will be putting on soon and want to ensure I get the most out of them. Are you bending the spring washers somehow, or are you just referring to their original shape?

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No offense, but perhaps you didn't do the best job or use the best parts??? Un-reinforced Cam case o-rings? Cheap Cam end seals? Wrong sealant for cam case?

 

I used metal re-enforced o-rings and anerobic sealant for the cam towers. I'll admit I MUST have done a sucky job because my fouling plug issue was because of an internally leaking headgasket (I also replaced headgaskets). I thought I did a really good job and was looking forward to driving it for a long time, but it's kinda good it didn't hold because I wouldn't have gotten around to the d/r 5spd swap. It'll be cool to have one of the only EJ22 d/r 5spd sedans in this part of the country.

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That's an interesting tip. I've got a set of those high dollar OEM grommets that I will be putting on soon and want to ensure I get the most out of them. Are you bending the spring washers somehow, or are you just referring to their original shape?

 

I mean they are a washer that is bent slightly like a taco.

 

The reason this works is because the VC bolts have a shoulder that bottoms out at a certain point, so you can't turn it any tighter. Well over time, the rubber shrinks and there is no way to tighten it. The spring washer puts a bit of force against the rubber at all times so it essentially *self tightens* as the rubber shrinks.

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