rear diff differences? and problems

[oooo]

I have swaped an 96 outback auto 4.44 transmission in my 95 legacy sedan with matching rear 4.44 diff to match, the first rear diff didn't operate smooth kind of binded some and the car made a loud screeching howling kind of sound, that sounds like it starts from the diff and goes up the drive shaft when the car is running between 50 and 60 mph and only when its not under acceleration, so i got another rear outback diff from the junkyard and swapped it in, and it runs smooth no binding but still makes the same sound screeching sound, you can kind of hear it inside the car but when up on a lift and doing 55 its so loud you need earplugs, if your standing underneath, so I am going to get yet another outback diff and try it, hopefully the third time is the charm, maybe just two bad ones in a row, my question is, is the outback diff different physically then a regular legacy diff or is it just the different gears inside and should I be trying to get a 4.44 rear gt diff instead if it is different. Or do I just have bad luck.

 

p.s. swapped out the drive shaft just to make sure it was not a bad carrier bearing or u joints and it still did it, so I have no Idea. Any suggestions as to what might be causing the sound would be greatly appreciated

[Reveeen]

when up on a lift and doing 55

 

There is never a situation where it is a "good" idea to run an independent driven suspension in an "unloaded" condition. You are trying to operate it with your axles at too extreme an angle and just may end up wearing one.

 

The rear diff in these cars is entirely rubber mounted, I would check my axles (because running them in an "un-loaded" condition may have fubared one, or both) and my wheel bearings, because noise created by either has no where else to go but up the drive shaft.

 

Un-equal size rear tires can cause the posi (if equipped) to make some pretty strange noises too.

[johnceggleston]

how sure are you that the 96 trans is an outback.? whats the number on the bell housing at the starter? does it have two 2s in it or only one? a 96 outback will be TZ102Z2ABA. a legacy L will be TZ102ZABAA, or something close. the last 3 characters don't mean much.

 

have you tried driving it in tight circles at slow speeds to rule out torque bind.?

[nipper]

Just blindly swapping out parts wont solve anything. Have you looked at the tires, rear wheel bearings, rear brakes to rule those out?

 

 

nipper

[Suzam]

Try plugging in the FWD fuse and see if it still makes the noise.

[oooo]

The numbers where right it was a outback transmission, found the problem the used transmission from the junkyard was junk, its drivable but getting louder and louder, to rebuild it was gonna cost around $1500, so Im gonna drive it until it dies and look for a new used transmission,hopefully this time the junkyard will be honest about the condition of the trans. but on the bright side I just picked up a 97 impreza outback, it had no engine but I scored it $750 it has 136,000 on it, everything else is in good condtion and no rust:banana:. So expect to see a few posts asking questions about that, and thanks again to everybody for the help

[johnceggleston]

i'd talk to the junk yard and try to get them to give you another one for free!! or very very cheap. the second worst thing that can hapen is they say NO. the worst that can happen is they sell you another bad trans.

 

look for a 95 2.2L A/T engine for your impreza.