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Subaru 360 Starts, Runs then Dies


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Suabru 360 (I think it's a 1968) starts, runs for minute or so then dies. After waiting a few minutes, it will again start, run for a minute or so then stops again.

Any suggestions (other than use the car for only VERY short trips)?

PS Car has been off the road for 30+ years and is trying to get back in the race... 60 mpg!

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sounds very much like a fuel related issue

 

check for fuel flow (replace filter and see if fuel comes out the fuel line) also check if the float in the carb is working properly. If this car has a fuel pump (I dont think so) see if it still works.

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Car sat for 35 years and was seized up when I got it. I was able to free it up using Marvel Mystery Oil lubrication.

It starts right up but the engine seems to seize after about a minute. Starter won't crank engine but after allowing it to cool for 30 seconds or so, it starts right up again.

Without possibly misdirecting you, my thoughts are that the rings are not floating on the piston or in some other way binding so that the heat of expansion once the car starts causes the pistons and rings to seize against the piston walls.

Any thoughts?

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that still sounds like a fuel problem.

 

if the float fills up then you drive it and the float will empty without having proper pressure to fill it back up.

 

I would recommend a full carb rebuild as it is probably clogged with old gas and a rotten float.

 

if you're really worried about this siezing problem then perhaps try turning it over by hand right after it shuts off...

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Car sat for 35 years and was seized up when I got it. I was able to free it up using Marvel Mystery Oil lubrication.

It starts right up but the engine seems to seize after about a minute. Starter won't crank engine but after allowing it to cool for 30 seconds or so, it starts right up again.

Without possibly misdirecting you, my thoughts are that the rings are not floating on the piston or in some other way binding so that the heat of expansion once the car starts causes the pistons and rings to seize against the piston walls.

Any thoughts?

Zefy. Even spraying fuel right in, bypassing the carb, it "seizes" until it cools for a minute then can start again. Starter is stronger than I and even that won't crank the engine.

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sound like the top of the bores could be corroded and as it gets hot it stops the pistons, binds them up. I've never had a problem like that before, this might sound radical but what if you rev it up to a high idle and see if it clears it up.

Thierry

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sound like the top of the bores could be corroded and as it gets hot it stops the pistons, binds them up. I've never had a problem like that before, this might sound radical but what if you rev it up to a high idle and see if it clears it up.

Thierry

I guess fear of toasting this 2 stroke engine is my greatest concern. Since there is no way to drain the engine and get rid of conaminants, any bits and pieces that come loose can cause some damage.

Hate to admit but it might be time to pull the heads and have a real good look.

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  • 4 months later...

Most likely is that the carb float has taken on fuel (leaked). Not easy replacement to find. It is possible to repair by draining and drying it out, find hole or split, and then seal with a tiny bit of solder. Too much solder and it will not be able to be adjusted from the extra weight though.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Car sat for 35 years and was seized up when I got it. I was able to free it up using Marvel Mystery Oil lubrication.

It starts right up but the engine seems to seize after about a minute. Starter won't crank engine but after allowing it to cool for 30 seconds or so, it starts right up again.

Without possibly misdirecting you, my thoughts are that the rings are not floating on the piston or in some other way binding so that the heat of expansion once the car starts causes the pistons and rings to seize against the piston walls.

Any thoughts?

There hope that helps people who are having problems reading the red font.

 

Definately sounds like there is a problem with the pistons and the cylinder walls. Pull the heads and measure the cylinder walls. Hopefully it's just on one of the cylinders and not all three.

 

good luck

BW

Edited by s'ko
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Are ring kits available and not ridiculously expensive for these? Honing the cylinders and re-ringing on a 2-stroke is a cakewalk, especially if the cylinders can be unbolted from the crankcase and honed separate from the rest of the engine. At that point, you could also turn the crank without any drag from the pistons and see what kind of shape the main bearings are in.

 

Does it make any noise when it's seizing up?

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