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Forgive me for not knowing this. . .

 

What does the red arrow point to? Does that cover the rear main seal? I want to change out the rear main seal, but doh!, I don't know what it is.

 

fly022.jpg

 

 

Do I need a backing plate for the flywheel? THe flywheel from the A/T does NOT fit.

Do I need to use the little plate with the holes in it that the arrow points too?

 

fly011.jpg

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Arrow is pointing toward the well known (well only the plastic ones that leak like crazy) Oil Separator Plate. Pull it and reseal with permatex or your favorite.

 

Beast is correct the rear main is the normal looking seal around the crank.

 

I have never seen that ring on a flywheel for a manual, only on automatics..

 

Looks like your having some fun!

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Are you sure the rear main seal is leaking? Usually they never leak, and they can be a bit of a bear to get right.

 

That plate is called a seperator plate. It gives you access to the inside of the engine. They are usually plastic, but someone has already changed this one.

 

 

I'm a little confused, are you converting a car to a manual ?

 

 

nipper

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Are you sure the rear main seal is leaking? Usually they never leak, and they can be a bit of a bear to get right.

 

That plate is called a seperator plate. It gives you access to the inside of the engine. They are usually plastic, but someone has already changed this one.

 

 

I'm a little confused, are you converting a car to a manual ?

 

 

nipper

 

Yeah, sorry. 2.2t that was a 4at to 5spd.

 

Thanks you guys.

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Couple of points: The plastic seperator plate was only used from '95-'99. Subaru discovered how bad an idea that was and went back to the metal ones, then redesigned it again to an even better metal one.

 

Second, the flywheel uses a longer bolt than the flex plate (that is what the AT "flywheel" is called) as the mating area is much thicker. Because the mating area on the flex plate is so thin, that backing plate is used to reinforce it at that point. you need the bolts that came out with the flywheel in order to install this flywheel in your car. There will also be electrical considerations with this retrofit, as the computer also uses some signals from the transmission to control several aspects of engine performance.

 

Thirdly: Yes, replace the rear main seal. Be careful putting it in, but it does go bad after a while. I went with the advice that it never goes bad and now my clutch disk is soaked with the oil that is leaking out of my engine past it. I have to pull my engine again, and clean everything off with brake cleaner before putting a new disc in. Yes, I'll be putting a new rear main in as well. . .

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the little spacer should not be needed on a 5MT

 

the arrow head ends at the rear separator plate, reseal that and get a new updated metal one. the newest metal plate requires special screws too so that gets one of those smiley faces i never use :rolleyes:

 

the arrow head does sort of point to the rear main seal - it's the circular black thing that looks like every other seal in a subaru....crank seal, cam seal, oil pump seal...etc - looks exactly the same except larger and thinner. the black ring around the actual crank shaft. if you're still not sure, turn the engine over by hand and watch the rear, the crank will spin and it's OD rides on the ID of the rear main seal.

 

not to be mean, but this is an odd-ball seal for Subaru's, it's not like the rest. it's the least likely to leak, they very rarely leak. but they're the hardest to install without having a leak later. so, if you're asking where the rear main seal is then proceed cautiously while replacing it. if the motor has some mileage, age or has been sitting for some time i would be inclined to replace it. be warned though - a handful of people have had leaks soon after replacement. that being said i'd get a Subaru seal only and install it as precisely as you can, i'm not sure why they have problems.

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Appreciated Gary, no offense taken. I've got several buddies with knowledge who can and will help me. But before I tax them, I thougt I'd ask you guys. What you said about thinking maybe I should get help if I'm unsure is good advice. Thanks.

 

This trans will get pulled in a few months when my d/r gets here from out of the country, maybe I'll wait till then . . .

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O.K. Now can anybody answer which direction the Throw out bearing should be oriented?

 

If you look closely at one, you'll see that the bearing is slighly eccentric to the shaft opening. So the bearing is actually 1 or 2 degrees off of being perpendicular to the shaft. Can't figure out why?

 

I always just note how the old one came out and put the new one in the same way. But I've found them both ways, so I'm not sure. Does it matter? It must or they wouldn't ALL be that way, but they are??? But I've never found ANYTHING in any literature describing why or which way it should go. Anybody got an answer???

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In the case of my 96 2.2 L MT, IIRC, the throw out or release bearing could go only one way. Maybe cause of the way the spring clips are connected to it... (?)

Anyway, since this bearing fit on a round shaft, if your's can go both ways, the angle relative to the fork and relative to the pressure plate will be exactly the same.

My two...

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In the case of my 96 2.2 L MT, IIRC, the throw out or release bearing could go only one way. Maybe cause of the way the spring clips are connected to it... (?)

Anyway, since this bearing fit on a round shaft, if your's can go both ways, the angle relative to the fork and relative to the pressure plate will be exactly the same.

My two...

 

 

Sorry, but maybe you didn't quite understand how the clips go on. Because EVERY Subaru TO bearing can be mounted either way. I have seen one Aftermarket TO that had a tab on one side that interfered with the Fork if mounted one way. But all the OEM bearings I've used can be mounted either way. ALL of them have slightly offcenter/tilted outer bearing case relative to the hole in the center that it slides on.

 

And depending on which way you put it on, there IS a difference in the angle of the TO to the pressure plate depending on wether you put the eccentric part up or down.

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But, I still don't know if I need to go find a backing plate for the flywheel. :-\ ;)

 

 

No, just get the proper length bolts. If you've got a manual trans equipped engine from anything there (EA81,EA82,EJxx) the bolts should work.

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No, just get the proper length bolts. If you've got a manual trans equipped engine from anything there (EA81,EA82,EJxx) the bolts should work.

 

Thanks.

I did get the proper bolts, luckily I have a Soob only J/Y about 8 blocks away from me. ;)

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Sorry, but maybe you didn't quite understand how the clips go on. Because EVERY Subaru TO bearing can be mounted either way. I have seen one Aftermarket TO that had a tab on one side that interfered with the Fork if mounted one way. But all the OEM bearings I've used can be mounted either way. ALL of them have slightly offcenter/tilted outer bearing case relative to the hole in the center that it slides on.

 

And depending on which way you put it on, there IS a difference in the angle of the TO to the pressure plate depending on wether you put the eccentric part up or down.

 

I stand corrected.

 

I just understood you meant turning it 180 ° keeping the bearing on the same plane. I first tought you meant flipping it over (that would keep the angle constant) That seemed odd.

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I stand corrected.

 

I just understood you meant turning it 180 ° keeping the bearing on the same plane. I first tought you meant flipping it over (that would keep the angle constant) That seemed odd.

 

 

I see what you are saying, yeah *flipping* it wouldn't work.

 

I am really baffled by this one. It hasn't caused any real issues for any of the jobs I've done. I just want to know.

 

And nobody has been able to tell me why the bearings are eccentric like that?

 

I plan on taking pictures, and starting a post devoted specifically solving this.

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