The Dude Abides Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 Starting the rust repair (not that bad). Any fellow rust repairers have any advise. Heres what im starting out with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3eyedwagon Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 Cut well PAST the rust. Meaning, be sure to get it ALL out. I've seen countless cases where people have skirted by rust, wanting to cut out as little as possible, and ended up hosing themselves to save a little bit of time. There's no point in having to go back in, and do it again in a couple of years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 also, a sandblaster does a good job of getting the rust out, then make sure you use a rust "inhibitor product" something that essentially neutralizes the rust and stops further growth. 3M Rust Fighter ??? is a spray that does this, i not sure on exact name, but it turn metal black as it dissolves the rust. and there are many other products too. DO NOT USE RUST OLEUM *** very bad as no automotive paints are compatible with it and paint will lift off it. make sure you use Primer/Sealer, not just primer, it has to had primer/sealer listed on the can. rotary air tools/grinders make quick work of getting the rust out. plan to coat the bare metal with the rust inhibitor and then primer sealer asap, you don't want air to contact the bare metal for very long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhise Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 POR-15 has been working well for me. I haven't done anything too fancy, just a HF angle grinder, POR-15, fill, sand, prime and paint. I'm sure if I hadn't done anything I wouldn't have any rear quarters or rocker panels left by now :-\. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 also, make sure you use Primer/Sealer, not just primer, it has to had primer/sealer listed on the can. Where can you buy that type of primer? BTW Dude, POR-15 is great!! I bought a gal for my wheel wells and I got one coated with it and no more rust.. If you go with POR-15, You'll need to buy 1.gal of the "METEL READY" and a 1.gal of "MARINE CLEAN" it comes to about $140 for all, but it's well worth it! POR-15 site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 por-15 use gloves, goggles, long sleeves etc, cause you do end up wearing it whereever it goes. A quart of that stuff covered the entire underside of a Brat. it goes a long ways, probably dont need a gallon. Where can you buy that type of primer? BTW Dude, POR-15 is great!! I bought a gal for my wheel wells and I got one coated with it and no more rust.. If you go with POR-15, You'll need to buy 1.gal of the "METEL READY" and a 1.gal of "MARINE CLEAN" it comes to about $140 for all, but it's well worth it! POR-15 site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 por-15 use gloves, goggles, long sleeves etc, cause you do end up wearing it whereever it goes. A quart of that stuff covered the entire underside of a Brat. it goes a long ways, probably dont need a gallon. Yeah your right about not needing a gallon. It does really go along way!!! I just wasn't sure about it when I bought it (Didn't want to run out) I would still get a gallon of both the "METEL READY" and the "MARINE CLEAN" just to be safe. Thats only a few bucks. And yes you will want Gloves, goggels, and long sleeves. Forgot about that, good point bheinen74. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 Ben...send Quido to me and let me do it:grin: I got everything for the job..angle grinder..welder..rust bullet ( as good as POR-15 but cheaper) metal prep..long hair and short hair glass..bondo...and still have have a can or 2 or 3 of Kenmore white paint. I would rather do body work any day then mechanicals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted July 24, 2008 Author Share Posted July 24, 2008 Ben...send Quido to me and let me do it:grin: I got everything for the job..angle grinder..welder..rust bullet ( as good as POR-15 but cheaper) metal prep..long hair and short hair glass..bondo...and still have have a can or 2 or 3 of Kenmore white paint. I would rather do body work any day then mechanicals. See connie id send it to ya but i know how much your wantin a white 4wd wagon so i might not get it back:grin: I dont know about cutting out any metal. No metal is through its all surface rust. Ive started some prep work with the spots and rusted scratches. Ill half to check what paint i bought but i think its krylon. Just a primer with a white enamel. Just something to cover it up make it look semi one color. Some of the places it is rusted i half to remove the rubber molding around the front and back glass. Same as anything, easy to take off hard to put back on. there is one thing connie i do need your advise on. The dreaded sub frame rot. Its only in one spot under the drivers side floor and its not bad but its not good. What can i do to stop and possibly fix this. P.s. i have some trim holes to fill in is that glass bondo cheep i only need alittle for like 8 holes bour the size of a quarter. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 if you have just a few small holes to fill in, use glazing paste, it comes in a tube, looks like toothpaste, dont advise teeth brushing with it though. It quick dries, and sands nicely. use a piece of plastic to smooth it out, or a putty nife. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted July 25, 2008 Author Share Posted July 25, 2008 if you have just a few small holes to fill in, use glazing paste, it comes in a tube, looks like toothpaste, dont advise teeth brushing with it though. It quick dries, and sands nicely. use a piece of plastic to smooth it out, or a putty nife. bump for being lost in the mix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 Ben..if you can ..send me some up close pictures and I can help you out figuring the best most cost effective..easiest way to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahole Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 Hey Bucky92, I have a question about Rust Bullet. Have you used it over paint? Their website says it works best on bare metal, but I am not about to sand down my entire car for this stuff. I'm moving from CO to MN in about a year and I need some rust protector. I plan on doing the whole car with the stuff and I don't want it coming off. Also, have you used it w/o painting over it? Is it good to go with the UV stuff? Sorry for the hijack.:cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 There are 3 kinds of Rust Bullet...I use the automotive and it leaves a silver finish..I also use thier metal prep too for bare metal. Its a very think paint..just so you know...and a little goes a long way. Now..paint does NOT like sticking to the Rust Bullet..if you want to paint over it you will have to sand it smooth and use a primer before paint. In any case..I would still try to sand as much of the rust off as possible..the more you get off the better chance you have of it not returning. If you plan on painting the whole car plan on spending some money also..the product is not cheap ( a half pint runs about $10) and its not a spray on thickness..its thick and will leave brush marks.You will still have to sand/scuff your entire car before applying..thats just how its is ..if you want to paint the entire thing. I have painted rust bullet directly over rust and it appears to slow it down..but it is not a fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahole Posted July 26, 2008 Share Posted July 26, 2008 The web site says it can be sprayed. But my question is, does it stick well to paint? I don't want to paint over the Rust Bullet, I want to put rust bullet over my paint. I haver almost no rust on my car (CO), I want to keep it that way. I think I'll start a thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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