ironfeather Posted July 26, 2008 Share Posted July 26, 2008 Hi, Appreciate any advice on this. Today I figured out how to access the fault codes via the flashing "Check Engine Light" and here is what I have: * code 21: Water temperature sensor. * code 32: Oxygen sensor. * code 35: Canister purge solenoid valve * code 13: cam angle sensor codes from chart at: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html The story: I have been driving the car for awhile now with the "Check Engine Light" on but never investigated why it was on. Suddenly a few days ago it just cut out on me on I-70. I had it towed. I inspected everything I could view. It does have gas, and the fuel pump is moving fuel. I don't have any spark. It wants to start so I think the starter is fine as you hear it work, turn over but never fire. I have never reset the computer so perhaps some of these faults are from the past? My guess is one of these has caused it to not spark but I am unsure which one I should tackle first. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOthis Posted July 26, 2008 Share Posted July 26, 2008 check your spark problem out first and find out why you dont have spark.....and once you have the car running again i would clear the codes and see which of them comes back.....(since you said the CEL has been on for a while and "some of them could be from the past")...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted July 26, 2008 Share Posted July 26, 2008 [...]* code 21: Water temperature sensor. * code 32: Oxygen sensor. * code 35: Canister purge solenoid valve Any of these three can lead to poor running or high emissions, but not no spark. * code 13: cam angle sensor[...]While you could have a bad cam sensor, often that code is set when the timing is wrong, as when the timing belt breaks or jumps position. Fortunately, according to your previous thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90708 , you have a '93 and unless the engine was replaced with a more recent one, it's a non-interference type. Therefore, even if the timing is way off, no damage will occur to valves or pistons. How many miles ago was the timing belt last changed? Does the cranking of the engine sound "normal" to you? Do you have a means of checking cylinder compression? Could you pull the timing belt covers and check the belt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironfeather Posted July 26, 2008 Author Share Posted July 26, 2008 hi ok i will investigate the timing belt issue as recently I think the water pump has gone bad so maybe it has stressed the belt.. anyways, i will remove a cover and inspect tomorrow. Could I pull the sensor, clean it and put it back? I read in one post that a person had a sensor covered in junk. it sounds normal when i try to start it. the timing belt has never been changed. I dont have a way to check compression. thanks, will report back tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted July 26, 2008 Share Posted July 26, 2008 [...]Could I pull the sensor, clean it and put it back? I read in one post that a person had a sensor covered in junk.If the cam sensor is "covered in junk", that's not a good sign -- it's in a relatively protected area, and any significant accumulation would likely point to failure of a timing-related part. Perhaps the sensor you're referring to was an ABS wheel sensor, which can be affected by road debris. For some general info on the ignition system, including sensors, see http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/DirectIgnition.pdf . There are errors in the "DirectIgnition.pdf" info. In the "Ignition Coil Testing" section, the terminal numbers listed in the text are reversed between the primary and secondary; however, the diagram is labeled correctly. it sounds normal when i try to start it. the timing belt has never been changed. I dont have a way to check compression.Sounding "normal" while cranking is good, but the timing belt having never been changed still leaves it high on the list of possible problems. For how many miles have you owned the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 26, 2008 Share Posted July 26, 2008 check the timing belt for breakage or slippage. then i'd replace the cam angle sensor. sure, you can try cleaning it if you'd like. make sure the plug, terminals, and wiring all looks intact and clean as well. post in the parts wanted forum, someone on here will have one of those or the junk yards should have a few dozen. they're really cheap and rarely fail, not worth buying new. good luck! at some point clear the codes and seeing which ones come back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnuman Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 On a 93, the one that would cause no spark is 13, the cam angle sensor. How many miles on the car overall? the timing belt is only rated for 60,000 or 100,000 miles, depending on wether you have federal or California emmissions. I would pull the left (drivers side) timing belt cover and check the condition of the belt. If you want to pll the cam angle sensor and check on it's condition, it is right behind the pully that is behind that same cover. you reach behind the rear cover with a 10mm box wrench and remove that one bolt. the sensor then just pulls out. As was previously mentioned, the cover should be fairly clean, and anything on it should simply wipe off. If there is a lot of stuff on it, We need to know that, and what it looks like. We will also need to know what the belt looks like, and if it has any slack in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironfeather Posted July 30, 2008 Author Share Posted July 30, 2008 On a 93, the one that would cause no spark is 13, the cam angle sensor. How many miles on the car overall? the timing belt is only rated for 60,000 or 100,000 miles, depending on wether you have federal or California emmissions. I would pull the left (drivers side) timing belt cover and check the condition of the belt. If you want to pll the cam angle sensor and check on it's condition, it is right behind the pully that is behind that same cover. you reach behind the rear cover with a 10mm box wrench and remove that one bolt. the sensor then just pulls out. As was previously mentioned, the cover should be fairly clean, and anything on it should simply wipe off. If there is a lot of stuff on it, We need to know that, and what it looks like. We will also need to know what the belt looks like, and if it has any slack in it. Hi, ok here is an update: I forgot to check the miles but will do that next time I am with the car. It has a ton I am sure a it was heavily used by the first owners and I have used it daily a well. Anyways, I pulled the cover as suggested and the timing belt is totally destroyed! shredded and it tatters. I am hoping I can replace it and the car will run again. I will replace the water pump as well as it has been acting up and maybe even it was the problem that cause the belt to be ruined... I will look at the chilton book for this, but if anyone has any tips or online infos let me know thanks again everyone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 Besides replacing the belt and water pump, given an unknown history and "I am sure a it was heavily used by the first owners and I have used it daily a well", it would probably be a good idea to at least replace idlers and tensioner as well. Following are some links to good info, and it wouldn't hurt to do a search here on USMB also. 2.2 Liter, timing belt: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2Liter.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf Motor Magazine series; starts with 2.2, then moves on to 2.5: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/072001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/112001_08.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnuman Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 OK, you have found the reason for the code 13. the rest are maintainance items anyway, so just replace those sensors. Luckily, the EJ22 was a non-interferance engine in 93 (and arguably the best engine Subaru ever built). Yeah, just replacing the timing belt and water pump will fix things for now, but for how long? Aside from the idlers already mentioned, i would also replace the engine seals (two cam seals, crank seal, two cam O-rings, one oil pimp O-ring, two valve cover gaskets, six valve cover bolt seals, the rear main seal is a matter of debate) and tighten the screws holding the backing plate on the oil pump as well. If you have a hoist, I would pull the engine to do all this work as it is easier out of the car, and you can get at things better to clean them up. If you do not have a hoist, all of this can be done in the car, except the rear main seal and the oil seperator (you would want to pull it off and reseal it is all). The seals in a car will generally last about 150K miles before normal operating temps bake them to the consistancy of plastic, at which point they are not really sealing anything anymore. replacing the seals and idlers will add years of reliability to your engine. I also recomend using the California timing belt (they are the same price from 1st Subaru Parts, and the California belt will fit a federal car just fine. The California belt is a 100K mile belt, while the federal belt is a 60K mile belt) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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