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new CV axle is clicking..84GLsw


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I wanted to do this myself, but I fell into some money and got the shop to change my CV axle. $112 parts and all. I sounds alot better. but it is clicking a bit. Is this something that will go away or did the shop do something to make the new CV click. SC

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IMO - they put in a crappy axle. Take it back and have them replace it.

 

I would agree... clicking is how you can tell that a CV is bad...

 

although I've seen people say that a new one may click a little while it's breaking it because the tolerances are so tight, but that would be the exception and not the norm...

 

if it's still clicking after a couple days then take it back and have it fixed...

 

 

--Spiffy

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Subaru's are picky about axles that's true. But I have yet to experience this mystical "bad new axle" that seems so common around here..... yet I have probably installed more EA axles than most.

 

Anyway clicking is classic of poorly torqued axle nut's, worn cone washers, or loose lug nuts. I would guess they didn't get the axle seated properly and the nut is loose.

 

Take it back in and advise them to check it out for looseness and insist they allow you to inspect the cone washer personally. ANY grooving is very detrimental to it's mechanical locking abilities. It works just like any other taper lock device and should be smooth and undamaged.

 

GD

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Thanks everyone, I'll have them check it. I hate letting a shop fix my cars, I have 50% satisfaction rate with the work.

 

It may also be the wrong axle. Subarus in the 80's had many differnt axle configurations. Sometimes a rebuilder just looks at the axle and thinks they all look alike, and some mechanics do it too. My 88 was so bad that my mechanic had his rebuilder send him all 4 possible axles so he could match it up properly.

 

Make sure you are getting the right axle, even if it means comparing it to the good one on the car.

 

nipper

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I had one of my new ones do a couple clicks on me the first time I turned it around in the drive.

After that (and check back over all fasteners) it's been fine.

 

Like was said I'd take it back and have them go back over it & let you see parts.

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I have had this happen before. check your motor mounts. If they are shot the motor will go up and down, making the CV axle strech. I went through 18 in my Brat before I found out what it was. :dead: The 19th one was put in a year ago, I also replaced the motor mount at the same time. I have had no problems since.

 

 

 

Jeff

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I recently bought a new transaxle assembly and had it installed by a reputable local service. The axle cost about $130 from NAPA and the book labor guide called for 1 1/2 hours labor = $90. So your $112 job probably was done with used parts. Even if they had just used new bearings it would have cost around $40-60 just for those parts.

 

After I had mine done I found out the other one was going bad too, which was hard to notice during the failure of the first. Check them both, then either buy new assemblies and install them yourself, or get it done right or there will be endless problems.

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You can get new axles on Amazon.com for $48-$58. NEW

Next time get one and do it yourself, or take it to an imort repair shop with subaru's parked in front.

 

It does sound like a cheap remanufactured axle was used, a shop could get one for $75 or so I bet. And they are crap! I've had the bad reman axle several times, but since I have been using NEW axles, GCK, Cardone, I've had no problems out of the box.

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The axle cost about $130 from NAPA and the book labor guide called for 1 1/2 hours labor = $90. So your $112 job probably was done with used parts. Even if they had just used new bearings it would have cost around $40-60 just for those parts.

 

Nope. You got took.

 

EMPI axles (new) are $58.

 

Bearings and seals are $25 per wheel, but are rarely done at the same time as the axle. They last a long time.

 

30 minutes to install the axle by a tech that knows what he's doing.

 

$112 is still a bit lower than I would expect, but if you are doing simple jobs like this at a discount to engender good will towards potential return customers in this poor economy.... I could see it.

 

GD

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Nope. You got took.

 

EMPI axles (new) are $58.

 

Bearings and seals are $25 per wheel, but are rarely done at the same time as the axle. They last a long time.

 

GD

 

Where do you get your axles?

I'm paying $79 each at Discount Import for EMPI's.... :confused:

If I could save $40 a set then I'd just get a few extras and call it good.

 

Bearings are about the same price though. :)

 

And yeah 15 to 30 min job on changing an axle. Seems like it takes me longer to put the car on jackstands now than it does to swap out the axles. :lol:

 

Everything is sorted now though and I hope to lose the axle swapping skill over time. :)

 

=============

 

As for getting them at Amazon. I think that option died. Last time I checked you could no longer get them from them, as GCK is no longer around. I tried to order some and got denied. :dead:

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Where do you get your axles?

I'm paying $79 each at Discount Import for EMPI's.... :confused:

If I could save $40 a set then I'd just get a few extras and call it good.

 

Bearings are about the same price though. :)

 

And yeah 15 to 30 min job on changing an axle. Seems like it takes me longer to put the car on jackstands now than it does to swap out the axles. :lol:

 

Everything is sorted now though and I hope to lose the axle swapping skill over time. :)

 

=============

 

As for getting them at Amazon. I think that option died. Last time I checked you could no longer get them from them, as GCK is no longer around. I tried to order some and got denied. :dead:

 

You can still get the A1 Cardone on Amazon, I have two, but I haven't installed them yet.

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Where do you get your axles?

I'm paying $79 each at Discount Import for EMPI's.... :confused:

 

Discount is where I bought them as well. I do get a discount through my employer (one of the ancient technicians I work with owns 20 - 30 vintage VW's and setup an account there years ago :rolleyes:), but I didn't think it was that much. Perhaps they increased the price slightly *and* my discount accounts for the rest.

 

Anyway - still cheap. I was paying $100 each for the GCK's and loving life. The EMPI's seem better if anything. They even come with axle nuts and cotter pins :lol:

 

GD

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Discount is where I bought them as well. I do get a discount through my employer (one of the ancient technicians I work with owns 20 - 30 vintage VW's and setup an account there years ago :rolleyes:), but I didn't think it was that much. Perhaps they increased the price slightly *and* my discount accounts for the rest.

 

Anyway - still cheap. I was paying $100 each for the GCK's and loving life. The EMPI's seem better if anything. They even come with axle nuts and cotter pins :lol:

 

GD

 

Ah.... I remember getting parts wholesale when I worked for a shop. Those were the days. :)

 

But yeah, I'm not complaining about the price, just was wondering. New axles for $80 and like you say comes with the nuts and pins. Score.

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I looked into the EMPI ones, but there's no EPMI dealer around me, and no online ordering that I could find. Too bad, I really wanted to try them.
I hadn't seen them until I ordered a new axle from the Honda dealer a couple weeks ago. $60 for an EMPI or $600 for a Honda axle that's not in stock. Um... I'll take the $60 one! Looked like a quality part to me.

 

Just for grins you might see what your local Subaru dealer offers.

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Wow alot of info on CV axles. . Thanks

 

went back to the shop and said its clicking, we drove around and the mech said no way but it did sound like it was, then they jacked up the car and ran it with the wheels in the air, not touching the ground with the brakes applied a little. and it was the old left axle old that was clicking.

 

I guess the right one was so bad it masked that the left one was crappin out. . Also the muffler is shot so it is a bit noisy on the driver side from that also.

 

I'm gonna smear some grease in the left one to see if it quiets. SC

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After the previous post, I decide to look it over myself. I greased up the older cv and its quieter

 

Going back on the axle the shop put in

 

It is tight but it can be loosened with plyers

Did I read right that the nut on the cone washer needs to be 180pound?

 

Sc

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I went to the cheap chinese made tool place and got a 12inch Channel lock plyer. $4.99, I got the nut to go maybe a quarter turn tighter. All I could move it. It reduced the clicking volume but its still there, just quieter. I doubt i got 180 lbs of torq.? I'm going to try to score a bug socket at work next week and put it on my torq wrench

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