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OK, I have a VW trike in which I blew the motor. Entirely my fault, a too fast timing adjustment while on a 700 mile trip which turned into a nightmare tow home at midnight and later. Actually I had problems the entire weekend but that's my life. *grin* Fun tho!

 

So after some research I'm going to be dropping a 2.2L into it. Most are from Impreza's. Tranny is no problem, there is an adapter to bolt it in with. The intake will be changed from efi to carb most likely by Scott of Bellingham.

 

But I need to know the cooling/heat range of the motor to plan to cooling system. What range does the motor like? What temp is overheat on those motors?

 

Sarge

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Normal range is 70-90 degrees centigrade. (x0.5555+32 to get degrees F, isn't it?)

 

Overheating...hmm...difficult to answer accurately. The temp gauges in the cars engine comes from "lie", they indicate at just below 50% of the scale for the range 70-90. So, cruising along, you cannot be sure if the temp is 75, 78, or 90...it's just "normal".

There is 40% travel until the dial shows red/overheating/no go zone.

 

My money says that anywhere over 100 is overheating, 110 would give me sleepness nights, and 120+ would blow head gaskets and from there on the heads are warping.

 

 

Does that answer your questions at all :confused:

 

 

The Subaru cooling system has around 6.5 liters of coolant. The block itself swallows about two liters, the hoses, pump, cabin heater matrix, and overflow tank take the rest.

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The t-stat is 190 degrees if i remeber correctly, that will be your target temp. i have seen my 2.2 (not blu) run up to 220 (scangauge) in the hot high plains, and have it barely show on the needle. i would say 220 is the upper edge of a comfort zone, as you do need some reserve for low coolant, flow issues , and extreemly hot air. at 260 i would consider that dangerous (even though its prbbly 2.3 of the gauge, but its amazing how quickly the gauge can climb from that point)

 

Give me a year (ballpark) for a 2.2 and i can give you more detailed information for designing a cooling system for the car.

 

nipper

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Normal range is 70-90 degrees centigrade. (x0.5555+32 to get degrees F, isn't it?)

 

The Subaru cooling system has around 6.5 liters of coolant. The block itself swallows about two liters, the hoses, pump, cabin heater matrix, and overflow tank take the rest.

 

*grin* It helped even tho I cheated and used the net to do the conversions. Math and don't get along.

 

Sarge

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More info then you would ever want from the FSM:

 

Cooling system

Electric fan + Forced engine coolant circulation

system

Total engine coolant capacity (US qt, Imp qt) Approx. 6.1 (6.4, 5.4)

Engine coolant pump

Type Centrifugal impeller type

Discharge performance I

Discharge 20 (5.3 US gal, 4.4 Imp gal)/min.

Pump speed—total engine coolant head

760 rpm — 0.3 mAq (1.0 ftAq)

Engine coolant temperature 85°C (185°F)

Discharge performance II

Discharge 100 (26.4 US gal, 22.0 Imp gal)/min.

Pump speed—total engine coolant head

3,000 rpm — 5.0 mAq (16.4 ftAq)

Engine coolant temperature 85°C (185°F)

Discharge performance III

Discharge 200 (52.8 US gal, 44.0 Imp gal)/min.

Pump speed—total engine coolant head

6,000 rpm — 23.0 mAq (75.5 ftAq)

Engine coolant temperature 85°C (185°F)

Impeller diameter 76 mm (2.99 in)

Number of impeller vanes 8

Pump pulley diameter 60 mm (2.36 in)

Thermostat

Type Wax pellet type

Starts to open 76 — 80°C (169 — 176°F)

Fully opened 91°C (196°F)

Valve lift 9.0 mm (0.354 in) or more

Valve bore 35 mm (1.38 in)

Radiator fan

Motor 120 W

Fan diameter x Blade 320 mm (12.60 in) x 5

Radiator

Type Cross flow, pressure type

Core dimensions

670 x 361 x 16 mm

(26.38 x 14.21 x 0.63 in)

Pressure range in which cap valve is open

Above: 88±10 kPa

(0.9±0.1 kg/cm2, 12.8±1.4 psi)

Below: −4.9 to −9.8 kPa

(−0.05 to −0.1 kg/cm2, −0.7 to −1.4 psi)

Fins Corrugated fin type

Reservoir

tank

Capacity 0.5 (0.5 US qt, 0.4 Imp qt)

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http://www.peakantifreeze.com/images/art_protection_chart_06.gif

 

art_protection_chart_06.gif

 

 

 

If you live in the artic, upper north dakota (canada) or the equator, other mixes are desirable.

 

Get over 70% mix and you will start loosing the ability to carry heat away from the engine very quickly.

 

50/50 mix is best for most drivers, as it is the most cost effective.

 

nipper

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Get over 70% mix and you will start loosing the ability to carry heat away from the engine very quickly.

 

50/50 mix is best for most drivers, as it is the most cost effective.

 

nipper

 

Learned this one the hard way. Coulda swore I bought premixed once and filled the system with nutin' but antifreeze. Boiled over in less than 5 mins.

 

Sarge

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If you will never see freezing temperatures, a 20% anti-freeze would be good. Going weaker you will start to lose the lubrication and anti-corrosion properties that the anti-freeze additives provide.

 

Water is the best coolant. It has twice the heat capacity of anti-freeze (gylcol anyway) and can transfer heat twice as fast. In the textbooks.

 

In the real world, you must have something to break the water's surface tension and lube your pump, and stop corrosion.

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